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Old 15th March 2013, 01:47 AM   #31
bdjohns is offline bdjohns  United States
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Default Panels Completed!

Whether gluing the Lexan to the stators, stators to the Mylar or stiffeners to the stators, I used the shown weighted setup. Sanders really emphasizes flatness of the assembly and enough pressure to get everything together with a consistent caliper. Nothing special about the grooved plywood - something from another project. Murphy struck once before I realized the drainage slope on my garage floor, so the assembly slid on the epoxy and smeared it. It was cold in the garage, which was good for increasing open time on the epoxy. The trouble light added some warmth for curing the epoxy.
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Old 15th March 2013, 02:15 AM   #32
bdjohns is offline bdjohns  United States
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I cut strips of "Press and Seal" food wrap to mask off the Mylar before spraying on the Lycron Crystal. It has low tack, but don't leave it on too long. I'm pretty sure I applied too much Lycron in one coat, as it dried streaky. Too much experience, I guess, at getting a full wet out coat when spraying paint. The copper charge ring was applied with the conductive adhesive to the Lycron side of the Mylar. I told my wife the panels looked like place mats, while curing on our dining room table!
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Old 15th March 2013, 10:56 AM   #33
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Very Cool!!!

There may be some tricks to spraying the licron to get it more clear but I haven't sprayed enough of it to tell you what they are.
I typically spray it and swab it around to save on the product and that works good too.
Once you get them sandwiched together you may not even notice the translucency against the black stators.

jer
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Old 15th March 2013, 12:20 PM   #34
Bazukaz is offline Bazukaz  Lithuania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdjohns View Post
I cut strips of "Press and Seal" food wrap to mask off the Mylar before spraying on the Lycron Crystal. It has low tack, but don't leave it on too long. I'm pretty sure I applied too much Lycron in one coat, as it dried streaky. Too much experience, I guess, at getting a full wet out coat when spraying paint. The copper charge ring was applied with the conductive adhesive to the Lycron side of the Mylar. I told my wife the panels looked like place mats, while curing on our dining room table!
Hi,

You can clean off the Licron with a cotton wipe soaked in acetone and re-apply.

Regards,
Lukas.
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Old 15th March 2013, 02:45 PM   #35
tyu is offline tyu  United States
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Great work....Wow.... i like that copper ring... Flat is good....good luck
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Old 15th March 2013, 02:49 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bazukaz View Post
Hi,

You can clean off the Licron with a cotton wipe soaked in acetone and re-apply.

Regards,
Lukas.
I found that the coating tends to be cloudy where wet streaks occur in the application, and especially so when applied in humid conditions. However, the streaking would not adversely affect performance, only the cosmetics. It's hard to apply a uniform coating from an aerosol can.
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Old 15th March 2013, 10:54 PM   #37
bdjohns is offline bdjohns  United States
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Thanks for the feedback guys. I wonder if wiping the Lycron on with a microfiber cloth would put down an even coat? The pic below shows the corner block that was positioned in the Lexan notches - two on one side, one on the other. This kept everything aligned while the epoxy cured.

I was so pleased that both panels worked as soon as I fed them! I was almost expecting them to not work, for some reason or another.

A few initial observations:
I'm surprised and pleased at how loud they can play, given their size and only driving with 30 wpc, crossed at 500 Hz.

I really agree with Charlie's friend, who summed it up by calling them "remote headphones"! I thought I knew what beaming was with the 12" full rangers that I have, but these really do. Charlie - you are so right about how phenomenal a female voice sounds! I just hear so much more - in everything I listen to.

I have not even made frames for them yet. The internal stiffeners and using epoxy makes them quite rigid. The pic shows them on the floor, but I elevated them and did some A/B'ing with a make-shift open baffle mid-bass and am convinced I will need to go that route, as the ported bass takes away the cleanness of the stats.

All in all, very happy with them and it was such a rewarding project. I just unexpectedly acquired a pair of BG 50's and have been playing with them. The stats are great for one listener and I believe I prefer them for that, but the wide dispersion of the BG's is very appealing. I have some questions about them I will ask in a new post.

Thanks again for the direction and support on this build!
Bruce
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Old 15th March 2013, 11:22 PM   #38
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It is so refreshing to see another successful DIY ESL build!!

Congratulations !!!!

Can you tell us your final overall dimension's especially the length between the inner spacers.
You may find that they may be a little less directional if you have your sections running vertical instead of horizontal.
In other words rotate them 90 degrees and see how they sound then.



jer

Last edited by geraldfryjr; 15th March 2013 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 16th March 2013, 12:56 AM   #39
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Well done, Bruce! First sound is exciting, yeah? Sounds are so real it's spooky, and you never quite get used to it.... years from now they will still amaze you.

WELL DONE!
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Old 16th March 2013, 01:38 AM   #40
bdjohns is offline bdjohns  United States
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Thanks Jer! Each area of available diaphragm is 11.5 x 5", four per panel. Overall stator size, including the spacer between them is 12.75 x 22.5". From the pic, you can see what determined the size - surplus store shelving!

I have had the understanding that the overall width of the panel controls the dispersion angle, not the width of the sections in the panel. I can see that the panel turned 90 degrees would give me a wider sweet spot, but would the dispersion angle be wider because the narrower panel sections? I would try it right now, but they are not set up because I'm playing those BG R50's....some Little Feat, Waiting for Columbus!
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Last edited by bdjohns; 16th March 2013 at 01:50 AM. Reason: spelling
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