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Old 28th September 2012, 01:30 AM   #71
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Quick question about stator coating: planning on stripping the oil off the metal with lacquer thinner. Then prime and paint with automotive acrylic from a spray can. What do you think?
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Old 28th September 2012, 01:50 AM   #72
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I see no reason why that wouldn't work provided you mist on the coats and allow enough flash off time between coats (so as not to entrap solvents)-- and you build sufficient coating thickness. The paint in aerosol cans is necessarily thinned quite a lot to allow it to spray at such low pressure. Thus, it will likely take a sh*t load of cans to build enough coating.

Last edited by CharlieM; 28th September 2012 at 01:53 AM.
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Old 28th September 2012, 02:46 AM   #73
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Here are some excerpts ( links) to my recent experiments use spray can types of paints.
The whole thread deserves a good read through.

Stay away from gray primers and stick with the red as well as any pigmented paints particularly grays and white and anything that has Titanium Dioxide as a pigment.

If you must have a color than use a coat on top of the primer and then use only clear acyrilc to build up your coating thickness.

I have found that the canned stuff can yield very good result as far as volts per mil.
Although depending on the size of the panels this can become quite costly.

I have also found that the 3X Clear Acrylic is much much more cost effective.
But you may be better of with a gallon of paint and reducer to be cost effective for the size of your panels if you have access to a sprayer and/or compressed air.

Remember that you are going to need a coating thickness no lessthan 7mil and closer to 10mil is better if not more as 15mil is pretty much a free of any problems zone.
A micrometer is a good thing to have around and it doesn't have to be an expensive one either.
I think I paid like $15 for mine and I use it to accurately measure sub mil of my diagphram materials with and without coatings with no problems.


I just picked up two decent sprayers at Harbor Freight for cheaper around $25 and $15 for a smaller top feeding detail gun.
I will be trying them out in the next few weeks with some Minwax Poly for some cabinets and in the mean time I will be making a few more test samples for the coatings thread.

I know Dochungwell has used these same sprayers and he says they work great for what we are doing with them.

High strength Dielectric Coatings, fact or fiction

High strength Dielectric Coatings, fact or fiction

High strength Dielectric Coatings, fact or fiction

High strength Dielectric Coatings, fact or fiction

High strength Dielectric Coatings, fact or fiction

High strength Dielectric Coatings, fact or fiction

High strength Dielectric Coatings, fact or fiction

High strength Dielectric Coatings, fact or fiction

Washing them off with some Lacquer thinner or Acetone is good and I generally like to give them another wash down with some Denatured Alcohol as well before starting to coat them.
This helps to insure that they are completely oil free should any get left behind and from handling them.
You can just spray it down and let it run off and air dry as long as there is no oils you are good with whatever method you use.

Just make sure that there aren't sharp edges!!!
Sorry, But I can not express this enough along with having a good coating thickness!!!

Charlie has some very good painting tips But I don't know which thread it was in.

jer

P.S. Yes, Charlie is right,Diagphram won't be hurt if it touches the stator at all.
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Old 28th September 2012, 02:56 AM   #74
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Yes, Using spray paints you must have a wet coat but not to wet so that it is running.
If it gets too thick it will intrap the solvent and cause it to form tiny microsopic bubbles in the coating and this will weaken the insulating factor.

Also make sure that you are in a dust free room if possible.
Sometimes I have had to do this outside and little bugs and spiders are flying in the air and you cannot see them until they hit your stator!!!

Good Luck !!!

jer
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Old 29th September 2012, 06:11 PM   #75
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Also Keep in mind that the side that the holes have their edges rounded or dulled is the side that goes towards the diagphram.

Make sure that you have the sharp side of the holes adequately covered but do concentrate more on the side that goes on the inside as well.

jer
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Old 9th October 2012, 03:36 PM   #76
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Finished grinding, cleaning and coating the stators.
Next up is building the diaphragm stretch table. Still need to get copper tape, 3M spacer tape, and Licron spray. Meanwhile, probably time to get going on the frame.
You guys have a favorite CAD package?
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Old 2nd November 2012, 09:19 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaunman View Post
Finished grinding, cleaning and coating the stators.
Next up is building the diaphragm stretch table. Still need to get copper tape, 3M spacer tape, and Licron spray. Meanwhile, probably time to get going on the frame.
You guys have a favorite CAD package?
DeltaCad is super easy but it's only 2D. Google Sketch-Up is 3D and it's free; although any 3D program will have a steeper learning curve. I'm too old to learn new sh*t so I just stick with DeltaCad and orthographic views.
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Old 3rd November 2012, 12:04 AM   #78
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I use Tiny Cad.
It is mainly geared for drawing PC boards but it is super easy to draw stuff as well!!

jer
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Old 9th November 2012, 11:50 PM   #79
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Minor setback. While getting ready to figure out a stretcher for the Mylar, I got the stators out of the shed to find the front / back (based on suggestions to orient the diaphragm-facing sides as those that had metal punched away from them). I noticed that the shelf-lining material that I used to separate the stators had actually bonded to some not quite dry yet clear coating.
Ugh.
So, I guess I will try a few methods to clean that stuff off before resorting to sand paper, which would imply a repaint...
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Old 23rd November 2012, 02:56 AM   #80
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Got all the foreign material removed with sandpaper. Cleaned the dust off, and am now repainting. Might get to stretch this weekend or next.
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