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Old 11th September 2012, 09:24 PM   #11
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Jackson,michigan
Here are some guides as to what the have available when you do your search of suppliers,

3M? VHB? Tape - High-strength bonding tape is a proven alternative to screws, rivets, welds and other forms of mechanical fasteners - 3M US

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...0Low%20Res.pdf

Just about every where you go you can find the stuff,Home depot,Menards,Lowes,Craft and Hardware stores.

The above PDF shows the various model numbers and thickness's to be looking for that are available.

Uline has various types and thickness's as well,

http://www.uline.com/Grp_240/3M-VHB-Tapes

The stuff is not exactly cheap!!
Although 36 yards is a lot of material.

jer

Last edited by geraldfryjr; 11th September 2012 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 11th September 2012, 10:02 PM   #12
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Location: Savannah, GA
The price of that foam tape went up about $6 a roll since I last bought some two years ago... prolly about the same everywhere else. I figure if you have to buy copper foil tape from McMaster-Carr (for the charge ring), you have to pay a shipping charge anyway so you might as well order the foam tape there too-- and you'll have it in about two days.

BTW, I think it's great to see a new builder going for it. I just wish I could be there to see the look on your face the first time you hear your new speakers!

Last edited by CharlieM; 11th September 2012 at 10:17 PM.
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Old 12th September 2012, 04:31 AM   #13
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Location: Utah, USA
Metal arrived today. Got a few bends in it, but should straighten out OK. Ordered the Mylar. Will be here in a month or so... Gives me enough time to get a tension table put together. Now to find someone with a band saw. Or, since the metal is thin enough, might try a Dremel.
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Old 12th September 2012, 05:38 AM   #14
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Maybe some metal cutting blades in a hand held jig saw would suffice as you will eat up a lot of fiber wheels in a dremel.

Just make sure that you support the metal well so that you don't bend it should the blade get caught and stick on you.
That won't happen though providing that you have it properly secured on the work table and the piece being cut off supported as well.

If you have a larger Die Grinder type tool this may be a better choice than a Dremel and would take less time as well.

And do use proper eye protection as well as some gloves when using Fiber wheels.
The last time I used one I got a piece fiber or metal splinter some how in my finger tip and this kept me from being able to play my Guitar for nearly a year.
This happened back in January while I was building my Variable HV bias supply.
I have just recently been able to start playing again not to mention your eyes of course.

Make sure that you round off any sharp edges before you even think about starting to coat your stators.
This can never be stressed enough !!!
The past has shown that this is the root of most all failures that occur for noobies on their first DIY ESL build, Sharp edges and stator coating thickness.

You have a lot of work ahead of you but it is all worth it in the end.

Just as Charlie put it, It would be priceless to see your face the first time you fire those bad boys up and are working with no issues!!!

It has been done before and I just get so excited when I see a new build through.

Good Luck !!!



jer
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Old 12th September 2012, 08:29 AM   #15
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: wigston leics england
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaunman View Post
Metal arrived today. Got a few bends in it, but should straighten out OK. Ordered the Mylar. Will be here in a month or so... Gives me enough time to get a tension table put together. Now to find someone with a band saw. Or, since the metal is thin enough, might try a Dremel.
I use big metal scissors 10.5" long and over 400 grams in weight to cut my perforated sheet, had no problems even at my age (74). No need for band saws or dremels. You can cut any shape you want with scissors. It,s safe as well no flying objects no splinters etc. I have built over 30 full range planars using scissors and have had no accidents, touch wood yet.
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HENRY

Last edited by JAMESBOS; 12th September 2012 at 08:34 AM.
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Old 12th September 2012, 09:09 AM   #16
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As Jer pointed out, grinding off sharp points along the edges is critical. I don't mention this on my webpage but when I fist fired up my speakers they played great for about 30 seconds before all that voltage found some sharp points and weak insulation around a stator edge and started arcing, which smoked the panel and shutdown my amplifier. I ended up having to completely strip off the paint coating from the stators and start over again. It was horrendous but it taught me a lesson about taking the time to properly prep the stators.

One more thing: You don't use a hammer on a hard surface to flatten dents and creases out of a metal stator, or you will likely stretch the metal and give it the flops (oil canning), in which case the stator would be ruined. To straigten dents/creases, I use a wooden mallet with a rubber router mat between the stator and work table.

Have fun!
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Old 15th September 2012, 04:06 AM   #17
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Cutting metal tomorrow. Will try the metal scissors (aka Tin Snips) first. They sell some 10" versions at HomeDepot -- I'll make sure they're spec'd for 20 gauge perf first. Maybe start getting a few pics of the build.
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Old 17th September 2012, 04:37 PM   #18
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Cutting done. I used some 12" tin snips I got from Home Depot for about 20 bucks. The process did induce some bending. I also picked up an edge grinder, so either straightening or edge smoothing is next.
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Old 17th September 2012, 05:34 PM   #19
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In shopping McMaster-Carr for perforated metal, I noticed that one of the available patterns had the holes in straight rows rather than staggered ones. (McMaster-Carr) This would allow a cut to size between the rows for a single, straight clean edge rather than thru a bunch of the perfs. Is there a reason why noone uses this?
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Old 17th September 2012, 06:03 PM   #20
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Cool !
I expected that tin snips might induce a little bending.
As long as the didn't induce any major warpage in the panel you should be okay as the edges won't effect anything, it is the overall panel flatness that is important.

I have been doing some more research on section widths and I found that on page 3-5 of this document,

http://www.pispeakers.com/ssdm_99.pdf

And using this calculator,

SOUND FREQUENCY & WAVELENGTH CALCULATOR

Seems to support my experience of useable dispersion of -/+ 30 degrees with my panel width of about 3".

To give you an idea 2.7"width= 1 wavelength at 5khz and by using the polar graphs in the document will give you a good idea of your dispersion factor.

On my next build little panel build I am contemplating a 1" tweeter strip with a 4" to 6" midrange section just to see how it will work out as I can't hear much of anything above 16.5Khz anyhow.

This is meant to be for some very good info and don't let it confuse you with your current build.
You will still be quite amazed once you get it finished and running!

Cheers !!

jer

Last edited by geraldfryjr; 17th September 2012 at 06:07 PM.
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