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Old 12th December 2012, 09:58 PM   #81
dheming is offline dheming  United States
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Just came across this video of the ADAM Audio factory visit. They show some nice construction details of their AMT tweeters. The fixture they use for actually folding the pleats is pretty neat: Adam Audio factory visit - YouTube
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Old 13th December 2012, 08:23 AM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dheming View Post
Just came across this video of the ADAM Audio factory visit. They show some nice construction details of their AMT tweeters. The fixture they use for actually folding the pleats is pretty neat: Adam Audio factory visit - YouTube
This is fantastic video, thank you very much! Especially that jig for folding AMT diaphragm...
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Old 13th December 2012, 09:52 AM   #83
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Yes great get with that video. Just what we need. It looks to me that the conductive trace is only on one side of the diaphragm for Adam too. Would you agree? In their white paper they mention that the trace is attached via heat. Perhaps one can just iron on the trace to mylar?

I will look around the house for something resembling the jig. What I had in mind, at first, was to use IDE connectors to weave. The pins are precisely spaced and about the right size. I'll get some paper clips from work today to try it.

I want to try folding first and etching second, if I can pull it off.

I also want to try a much larger surround compared to the active area. Perhaps making the active area 50 mm high only (1 row of tape) but using 2 more pieces for the surround. I will horn load so the driver can be larger than the active area.
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Old 13th December 2012, 10:48 AM   #84
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If you look closely al tracing goes on both sides. Markers are where diaphragm is to be bent. But, to me looks strange that + and - are on the same side of the pleat?
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Old 14th December 2012, 09:39 AM   #85
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I'm not so sure, have a look here where she is folding the diaphragm. I saved the video to file for intel. In principle having the diaphragm on only one side should increase even order HD because of the asymmetry, but I wonder whether it matters.

I may try alternating the sides. Then short circuits are unlikely.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 14th December 2012, 01:14 PM   #86
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I think there are 2 connections on each end ,and that R and R are to be connected.This shuld make a series connection.

Bernt
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Old 17th December 2012, 08:31 AM   #87
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I have a friend staying here in my apartment so haven't been able to make my own prototype yet. Soon I hope.

I have dissolved some Al with NaOH. Still not sure of the best way to mask it.
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Old 17th December 2012, 02:47 PM   #88
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I have read that the weaker solutions give a finer results.
But, I haven't tried it yet.

FWIW

jer
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Old 17th December 2012, 06:11 PM   #89
ilardi is offline ilardi  United States
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Default Etchant For Aluminum

I have had very good luck using the the solution described here http://www.uic.edu/sph/glakes/harts1...y/Semenoff.txt to etch aluminum.

It is is much better controlled and far safer then NaOH. Also, it does not attack most of the common PCB photoresists.
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Old 18th December 2012, 08:36 AM   #90
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Thanks for the alternate etcher. None of my permanent markers have been able to stand up to the NaOH so far.

Yesterday I was fooling around and had 2 ideas worth pursuing.

1/ IDE cables make excellent stencils for drawing/cutting evening spaced, straight traces. The 1 mm pitch of them gives some flexibility too. You can get your serpentine pattern done quickly. and the well indentations stop the ink from running.

2/ Cable ties would make a nice folding jig. Imagine running a rod through the holes so that they sit like keys on a key chain. I will buy some and try to fold the diaphragm up and down them, and then clamp it and see if etching gets in the gaps. The plastic should make a good mask.

What do you think would be better for the trace width with cable ties, 2.5 or 3.6 mm?
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