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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Long Beach, CA
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I'm in need of panels for Acoustat 2+2s. Anyone have any to sell, or does anyone know of a source?
Thanks, Trevor |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Calgary on the Bow
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better to take the time and learn to build better new panels. any panel you buy today is a very old panel and is not going to be as new. best you can expect from a styrene panel is about 30 years give or take a few years with most panels starting to show signs of degradation between 15 - 20 years of age. the information is out there if you search. some used panels will get you by but all your panels are now old and degraded. your acoustat's can sound better than they did new with fresh panels and you might want to consider switching to a 0ne plus 0ne format for the best possible stage and image.
the first styrene panels I built were 3/8 inch thick grids with kynar wire wrap wire with HS65 diaphragms using Testors non toxic styrene model cement adhesive and they were excellent easily better than the factory units. that was in 1988. it's the only future your speakers have and a good job if you can build them well and do the job cost effectively. lots of owners looking for new panels. best regards Moray James.
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moray james |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Long Beach, CA
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Thanks for the thoughtful reply.
One way that I have kept old panels going to is to put silicone caulk around the circumference of panels. This usually eliminates rattling during heavy bass passages, and it tightens the sound in general. Take care. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Calgary on the Bow
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the biggest single issue with old panels aside from loose diaphragms (which is an easy fix) is the degradation of the styrene which is used to encapsulate the stator wires. The styrene slowly breaks down and the wires eventually break loose and shift out of position. You can inspect and repair broken or near to broken joints but it is a large slow process as you must inspect every single joint on each stator and that's a lot of points to check. I know because I have done this more times than I care to remember. Trust me it is easier and better to put the effort into building fresh panels.
Just a general comment on caulking around a panel. It is a very good idea to solvent wash and scrub the sides 100% with paint thinner. This will ensure that you are not encapsulating anything which might be a possible short. Once the caulk in in place you will have a very difficult time dealing with such a problem. I prefer to wash panels clean them and use a layer of heavy poly packing tape. This makes handling safer and it is easy to remove and replace if need be. There is a ton of info on the archive at this site on panel building. After all these years and having built wire screen and perf metal stators I still believe that the wire stator is the most cost effective method to use. Best regards Moray James.
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moray james |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Long Beach, CA
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Thanks a lot James. I'm new to the site and will have to take a look around.
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Chandler Arizona
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Quote:
Unless of course, you are interested in tackling a project to build your own panels, which can certainly be rewarding in itself. By the way, you didn't mention why you need new panels. Are you having a problem with your existing panels? |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago
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I have a pair of Model 3s that I could part with the panels...but I do not know what they are worth...I think they are three 9" panels each or two 9" and one 8" panel each...
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All right, but apart from the sanitation, medicine, education, wine, public order, irrigation, roads, the fresh water system and public health, what have the Romans ever done for us? Life of Brian |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
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There are two 9" and one 8" in each of the M3s..
...Last i gave $50. for the 9" panels...my Diy M3s are all 9"...The 1+1 are 9"...The 2+2s are 4 9" ea......goodluck |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Chicago
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Hmm, I think I will keep them if they are $50 each.
Heck, if anyone has some to sell for $50 each I will buy them too.
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All right, but apart from the sanitation, medicine, education, wine, public order, irrigation, roads, the fresh water system and public health, what have the Romans ever done for us? Life of Brian |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Long Beach, CA
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Recent problem I've had were rattling during heavy bass passages, which was cured by caulking the circumference of each panel, and bass slap in a used replacement panel. (Sorry for the vague language. Rattling and slap are different and hard describe unless you've heard them already.)
I also was also having a problem with the unfinished wooden frame wicking up humidity and draining off the charge on the panels, resulting in a 10db or so loss of gain. (Humidity in Long Beach, CA often gets to 90+ percent overnight.) For a long time, I combated this problem by directing a space heater across the front my speakers. (I know, DUMB.) This melted on of my panels resulting in a failure. The solution to the moisture problem was extremely simple (once I thought of it). I removed the bottom panels and directed the space heater at the bottom of the frame for several hours and then coated the bottom of the frame and two feet up the sides with clear lacquer. Problem solved! My goal is to stock up on spare panels, because I know they're going to be unavailable someday soon. Thanks once again for your thoughtful reply. It's appreciated. |
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