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Old 12th March 2012, 07:48 AM   #11
SM7UYJ is offline SM7UYJ  Sweden
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Soap works well as coating if you like a simple coating just to test your panels, but as it's biodegradable it's not durable.
(Fabric softner works just as well! )

Check out the sticky in the section and you'll find different DIY coatings that are tested and work well!

Good luck with your build, and keep us posted!

/R
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Old 12th March 2012, 02:11 PM   #12
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That's the main reason of your panel not charging up properly. Being a beginner trying a new thing is nice, but it will take a lot of trials and errors. If you can, please try some of what we've suggested.

Wachara C.
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Old 12th March 2012, 03:01 PM   #13
tyu is offline tyu  United States
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I take Dishsoap...no water... no nothing.. put it right on the mylar with a cotten ball thin cote...works ever time..an well last monts...high output...i wash my panels ever 6 monts...if i need more ezey..other are right about some better ...but you have this on hand .. works great...all esl panels cane be made to re-open..make your life ezey...i say you may have a leak..in the front or back metal panel...goodluck
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Old 12th March 2012, 04:24 PM   #14
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Looks like I will try a different coating, as well as testing the transformer. I made them with foam tape, so they can be taken apart. I have plenty of leftover mylar so that is no problem.

tyu, what do you mean when you say
"i say you may have a leak..in the front or back metal panel...goodluck"?
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Old 12th March 2012, 08:00 PM   #15
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The dish soap should have worked. I use and recommend Licron Crystal ESD coating because it's durable and sticks like a bandit to Mylar. However, I've also tried dish washing liquid applied undiluted with a cotton ball (can't remember the brand but it contained the conductive ingredient, sodium laurel sulfate). Sound-wise, I couldn't tell the difference between the soap and the Licron Crystal--- both sounded great.
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Old 12th March 2012, 08:35 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieM View Post
The dish soap should have worked. I use and recommend Licron Crystal ESD coating because it's durable and sticks like a bandit to Mylar. However, I've also tried dish washing liquid applied undiluted with a cotton ball (can't remember the brand but it contained the conductive ingredient, sodium laurel sulfate). Sound-wise, I couldn't tell the difference between the soap and the Licron Crystal--- both sounded great.
Do you remember what brand/type of dish washing liquid you used? Mine did not include sodium laurel sulfate. I shied away from that Licron stuff because of the price tag, $40 for some spray is tough on a college budget.

I see many different formulas for the coating, but I am having trouble picking one. I see chinsetta posted this recipe

"1. PVA glue.
2. Water.
3. Graphite powder.

You add the mixture of 1 unit of PVA glue with 2 units of water and 1/10 unit of graphite powder. Take your time to stir the mixture well. It will become dark grey in color. Using a soft sponge, apply the material on the diaphragm. Only very light coating is needed. Once it's dry, it's good to go."

This seems relatively simple and cheap. Would anyone recommend a different formula?
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Old 12th March 2012, 08:48 PM   #17
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Here is the link to some of the PVA dicussions,

ESL Diaphragm coating

jer
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Old 13th March 2012, 01:38 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bball09124 View Post
Do you remember what brand/type of dish washing liquid you used?
I just walked into the kitchen and checked the label ingredients on a bottle of Dawn dishwashing liquid, and it does in fact contain sodium laurel sulfate; which means that Dawn would work fine (although I can't personally vouch for its longevity).

Bear in mind that you need the coating to contact the copper foil charge ring (or whatever contact to the power supply lead you are using)-- but you don't want the diaphragm to conduct charge all the way to its edges, as this might allow charge to leak off the diaphragm along its edges. Before coating the diaphragm, mask off the outer 1/4" or so of the periphery edges.

One more thing, if you are using foam tape type spacers: The problem with soap is that the foam tape spacers won't stick to the soap coating on the diaphragm. You can always over-wrap the panel edges with tape to hold the panel together along the edges but, before coating the diaphragm, you will also need to mask the areas that contact the vertical support spacers, because you will need the center-support spacers to stick to the diaphragm.

Good luck with your project!

Last edited by CharlieM; 13th March 2012 at 01:51 AM.
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Old 13th March 2012, 03:26 AM   #19
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Thanks for all your help!

I will report back when I have tweaked my design and hopefully I will have a sweet sounding setup!
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Old 13th March 2012, 08:28 AM   #20
SM7UYJ is offline SM7UYJ  Sweden
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From your film it looks as you are using two strips of tape in your vertical spacers - why? (aid stability?)

/R
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