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Old 29th November 2011, 05:25 AM   #41
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Location: Jackson,michigan
You may be getting mil and mm confused.

1mil=.001" or 1/1000 of an inch or .0254mm

1mm = .03937" or 39.37mil

1um or just u = .001mm or 1/1000's of a mm.

1mil = 25.4um.


jer
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Old 29th November 2011, 08:41 AM   #42
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You are right. I was!
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Old 29th November 2011, 08:55 AM   #43
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18411 -- CRC Seal Coat®Clear Urethane Coating, 11 Wt Oz

Hey they seem to have reconsidered the dielectric rating since the pdf....1300/mil now instead of 3000/mil
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Old 29th November 2011, 09:10 AM   #44
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Red Insulating Varnish

That one is available in quarts and gallons and is supposedly 3000/mil rated

One gallon is 145.00 dollars. I tiny one inch roller I think would apply thicker goats then spraying. It would be fast. It dries in 20 minutes or so... and the gallon while pricey would probably go a lot farther then a can.

Last edited by joojoo1234; 29th November 2011 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 29th November 2011, 12:03 PM   #45
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Spraying it on is a better choice.
It will allow for a more consistent and stronger,smoother coating.
A roller will introduce contaminants and air bubbles into the coating material.
Not to mention what will be wasted in the roller as the stuff is very costly enough.

It does not surprise about the type-o.
Now that have my HV supply done maybe I can one day soon bring some truth to some of these claims!

jer
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Old 29th November 2011, 01:54 PM   #46
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I would not use this product until it was tested first. So far my research and my experience has led me to use Hellmans Spar Varnish. It is about $38.00 a gallon and I spray it on applying multiple coats after first applying the primer and black under coats.

Although I should have taken Charlie M's advice to measure the panel thickness layer with a micrometer, my feelings are, regardless of measurements if it arcs. it needs more layers...

Charlies close up views reveal the desired thickness by the visual appearance of "doughnuts connected to one another"....without fillings.

I guess my point was when I began this thread was to hear opinions and products out there in regards to dielectric product claims and truths to those who have first hand experience using them for this practical application.

To me, the common denominator is that one of the best dielectric/conformal coatings is Alkyds, it seems to be the main ingredient present in much of the sprays I have researched and tested. In the future I will begin with a good primer layer, black paint as a base coat, then MULTIPLE layers of Hellmans Spar Varnish Polyurethane.

I will however consider using black Glyptol as a base coat, as this may reduce the overall top coats I would need to apply.

Doc
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Old 30th November 2011, 09:05 AM   #47
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Default Here is some info on ceramic

Quote:
Originally Posted by geraldfryjr View Post
Spraying it on is a better choice.
It will allow for a more consistent and stronger,smoother coating.
A roller will introduce contaminants and air bubbles into the coating material.
Not to mention what will be wasted in the roller as the stuff is very costly enough.

It does not surprise about the type-o.
Now that have my HV supply done maybe I can one day soon bring some truth to some of these claims!

jer

Wanted to tell you that the spray on brand is available in 55 gallon drums... dipping?
Dry times are probably to fast for that.. probably look ugly. Found your post on the gallon of licron crystal... awesome! Don't need it but still cool to know.

Here is a link that uses ceramic coating.

Dielectric Coatings, Gradated Coatings & Ceramic Coatings for High & Low Voltage Applications | Thermal Spray Technologies Inc.
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Old 3rd December 2011, 10:15 PM   #48
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I may have found THE home coating to use. My red insulating spray enamel has a high dielectric rating but their are other problems that relate to home spraying and using this and other products. Right now I KNOW my panels will arc. If you are not a painter I highly recommend getting them painted or powdercoated. The reason is... debri. I find it hard to believe that the problems is the material or brand choice itself. The spaces we are talking about are so tiny that debri and voids are the problem not the material. To a reasonable degree a high quality varnish is a varnish etc. etc. I am curing mine and then resanding them or stripping. The problem is THE DRY TIME OR CURE TIME. It seems to me that this is more important then dielectric rating for home painting your stators. Believing this I went to search for a product where true cure time is shortest and I found a (of course expensive) product that is used to cover motherboard circuitry to protect from electricity. It is called a conformal coating in tech circles. You have to have a mask I believe to spray it.

Besides the fast dry
Aervoe 403 Insulating Epoxy - www.tooldex.com
which is quite cheap and may be best for price if dry time is accurate I have yet to try it.
Below are the conformal coatings I found. (2000 ish dielectric)
PROMTECH AEROSOLS PVT LTD : PRODUCTS : ACRYSIL COATING - QUICK DRYING PCB CONFORMAL COATING
http://www.techspray.com/product-info.php?pId=64&cId=4

This red insulating paint I am using is fast drying but the cure rate takes 3 days. It is very hard at end of that time but unless you have a clean room it is tough to do and not get debri. These conformal coatings mention the problem of sharp edges and are designed for this problem.

I will probably have mine powdercoated however. I recommend this unless you are setup like Charlie with a shop. If you are spray painting in a house where people are walking around... and their is a cat and a dusty garage with stuff piled around.... and you think you can figure out a way... I can assure you by the time you take in the repainting of voids and problems drying and taking off debris etc. etc. Get it powdercoated. I may even strip mine 60 dollars later and go get it powdercoated. Right now for example on each of my four small stators their are at least 4-6 places where a hair in a hole... a void caused by the paint being pulled off... I had no place to hang them... per stator. You paint again... dry... takes forever... money...

My two cents to anyone getting into the game!
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Old 3rd December 2011, 10:18 PM   #49
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If that techspray can fully cure in 10 minutes... might be something to try.
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Old 3rd December 2011, 10:58 PM   #50
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The Techspray can be inspected by UV light for voids!
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