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#41 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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It doesn't look like too difficult a task... a nice big sheet of kapton or mylar with corrugated aluminum ribbons attached. I can see why they did it this way, much easier than how Apogee did it with their bass ribbons (I own Scintillas).
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#42 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Jackson,michigan
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You can measure the the thickness of the mylar with a micormeter and get a good idea.
It is to my understanding that Apogee used .5mil kapton although I have not yet been able to measure it. From my own experience and what others have reported it seems that .5mil is a good place to start for a large panel. I have even done some expriments using model airplane covering (monokote and other brands) on a very wide frame as well. It seemed to have good stability and should be fine for a bass panel although I never got as far as finishing it as a speaker. The thickness ranges of that type material is from about .7mil to 1.2 mil depending on the brand and grade that you use. You can also wash off the excess glue backing with a solvent as well and this will gain at least a .2 mil to .5 mil of less thickness ,as well as a lower mass on the diagphram. jer
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#43 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: england
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henry,will let you know thickness, mate is lending me his micrometer i think its 12um as regards cost of repair you know the cost of the parts as well as me ,dont seem to bear any relation to the actual repair but then this is often the case on planet high end no logic but hey thats life .
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#44 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: england
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#45 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
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#46 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: england
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linarray, as you can see i am not averse to building conventional speakers but to me these analysis epsilons have been a revelation and i feel no need to return to them. this is only my opinion and i am no expert . i have no intension of trying to replicate exactly what analysis do i will trend my own path,you obviously like moving coils thats great they have there advantages but i still maintain as regards transparency no normal speakers i have heard or owned comes close, i will be making a new set of panels to compare with the factory ones but getting dozens of rubber samples and glue etc is going to take time.
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#47 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Just keep geting better....i have meney piston type speakers....B&W..thiel...Near..ADS...
but..panels are where i live....i am looking now for the used analysis panels....see where it gos....thinks for the pix....briant |
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#48 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: england
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black and white this should link you to it.cheers
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#49 |
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diyAudio Member
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Just bought a pair of Magnepan SMGb,s just to see how they sound compared to my own designs. I am quite happy with the comparison.If I have to replace my diaphragm , it won't cost me an arm and a leg, only about £5 or less. I have 1 magnepan and one of my own designs running and they make a well matched pair working together. Am in the process of finishing the other one at the moment.Then I will concentrate on re-designing and rebuilding my A4 size FRP.I am also going to build a planar headphone when I get round to it. I don't know yet whether I will rebuild all my designs using 6 or 12 um mylar. The 6um mylar is a bit delicate for the task!! Keeps me out of mischief and and keeps my mind and body active, which helps at my age (73). Keep up the good work with the photo's etc. much appreciated.
__________________
HENRY Last edited by JAMESBOS; 16th November 2011 at 07:36 AM. |
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#50 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: england
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it looks like i am going to have to replace my krell fbp200 amp as its having a hard time driving these epsilons overheats and cuts out after a while, what about class d amps as it looks like i need a good 300 watts any recommendations.
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