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Old 10th March 2013, 09:47 PM   #31
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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So far so good. I will be removing the frames to refinish them in the not too distant future...thinking piano black...
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Old 12th March 2013, 08:50 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geraldfryjr View Post
Yes it is hard to tell because it is hidden by the frame.
I have had to repair one of those loops that had opened up and rendered the bottom half completely dead, one time.

Henry,your projects inspire me very much!
Although I am working on ESL's at the moment,I did do alot of experimenting with this stuff back in the 90's and I have been thinking about lately of building some smaller desktop models as well.
I just need to get a new stockpile of magnets.

Keep on DIYing!!!!

jer
I have built an A4 design using 25 x 6 x 3 mm neos quite pleased with the outcome.
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Old 12th March 2013, 10:22 AM   #33
tyu is offline tyu  United States
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Vary cool...Henry...thanks for the piX
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Old 12th March 2013, 10:40 AM   #34
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Default some more pics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tyu View Post
Vary cool...Henry...thanks for the piX
Have posted more pics on my own thread planars using neos.
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Old 13th March 2013, 12:08 PM   #35
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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Hey all, I have a quick question - my Duetta Sigs have tweeter/mids panel and bass panel DC resistance 3 ohm / 3 ohm, while the other is 3 ohm / 8 ohm... one is obviously wrong...anyone know? I am thinking the 3/8 is correct, and there is a ribbon short going on in the 3/3...

Also, there was a Apogee speaker thread regarding repair from an olaf that has mysteriously dissapeared from apogee acoustics forum....don't have any buzzing issues yet, but would like to know what the DIY fix could be...

Thanks!!
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Old 13th March 2013, 01:22 PM   #36
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On the one that I could get to, I measured 3ohms for the tweeter ribbon as well.

The woofer section has issues and it may be open again as it did quit working on me last time I had them powered up.

I did repair that one before and they have two sections to them it may be that one of the section are open as the are in parallel.

I had written it off as an amplifier issue and disconnected it and never check it or hooked them up again.
That was when discovered one channel of my amp was/is intermittent.

Later today I will unbury the other one and see if I can get a resistance reading from that one for you.
I do think that that one is in full working order.

Yes, I do remember those websites and they were very hard to find and alot of the threads that I have read have been deleted since the first time I had found them.
I believe that this was a politic type of issue with graz and people wanting to DIY/Fix there own units.
As many were doing a bad job at it and giving the product a bad name.
At least that was what I read in the forum.

jer
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Old 13th March 2013, 01:29 PM   #37
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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Yes, thanks Jer...

Hmmm, reading a technical review of the DS, it was mentioned that the bass panels was 3.8 ohm. Now I am thouroughly confused...it could be like you say, one section of the paralelled bass ribbon is out...

Something is not quite right, and looks like i need to open them up for a look...
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Old 13th March 2013, 03:15 PM   #38
tyu is offline tyu  United States
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Yes the site is GONE!.....go fig all the old post are lost for ever...i had the site for 3 years an read an re read...but it lost so all is on the users fourm...but the only diy fix for buzz... i saw was to take fom tape an put it on the wood that frams the bass driver an let the fom go up a genst the bass driver... this well help remove some of the buzz...
i have a guy that begging to take a pr of Duettas ....my hart wont take it...never saw any of the biger than stages that dont all buzz sooner are latter....hope your never do...But...Thats just my ....good luck
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Old 13th March 2013, 07:27 PM   #39
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I just got to the other panel it is open to !!!

The tweeter ribbon is down 1 ohm or so and reading about 1.9 Ohms by my meter.
All of my readings include the .3ohm offset of my probe resistance.

I don't know why this is, except that there are two aluminium strips on top of each other that complete the series loop of the three sections of the ribbon, and these two may be shorted together as there is no extra insulation to separate them.

Now for the woofer panels,
It appears the two sections are in series.
I got 2.9 ohms for the top section on one panel.
And 2.6 ohms for the bottom section on the other panel.
Also the lager air core inductor for the cross over is about .5 ohm.
Therefore the total resistance should be about 2.6+2.3+.5=5.4 ohms plus a little bit for the rest of the traces connections and wiring.

Both of the sections go the entire length of the panel and it may very well be possible that one of your sections is open and had been rewired for use of just one of the sections working.
Thus the reason for your 3 ohm measurement.

Back in 2000 I had to repair the one panel by using some wire warp wire glued on to the the diaphragm with some silicone and circuit works conductive silver paint.
And I guess I am going to have to do this again for the other section.

The other panel is going to be a bit more involved as it has a line of micro cracks in the aluminium voice coil all of the way down the panel on both sides were it was slapping against the edge of the magnets that are in the back of the diaphragm.

I was crankin' on them pretty hard that day as they were trying to keep up with my 4 X 10's and 4 X 12's woofer system.
They made for a very nice and clean midrange system that day for a little while!! he,he,he,he
Luckily I wasn't using the ribbons then!!

But at least they are repairable though.
I will try to get to them maybe this summer once I get some room made to properly set them up again.

jer
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Last edited by geraldfryjr; 13th March 2013 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 13th March 2013, 09:24 PM   #40
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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I was thinking the 3 ohm bass panel was functional, and there are two paralleled 8 ohm bass panel traces equalling 3.8 - 4 ohms total (and one trace out), but you say there are two 3 ohms in series indicating closer to 8 ohms probably the functional one?

I am confused...also, I am taking my readings with no passive xo - bass panel is black wire to red wire, and trwweter mid from brown wire to blue wire (these are the heatshrunk covered wires for active baimping, circumventing the passive XO components)
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