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Old 20th March 2011, 03:36 AM   #31
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But like I may have said mylar dooes not like any thing.so this is what I did.
mylar ,rubber cement, graphite,copper.

Some where I still have the one I did with 1/16" stripes (using a pc board method) sandwhiched in between some of the .25mil mylar that I still have. jer
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Old 20th March 2011, 03:49 AM   #32
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I have not yet actualy used any gorilla glue yet for a few reasons ,but I am about to embraqe on the ups and downs of such a product.

I would like to come up with a process to be able to use it without the foaming.

In ESL's the air bubbles can cuase a weakness of the dielectric material in the area that it is tyring to seal from the electric field.
Especialy when you are talking about 27Kv peak to peak across the stators. jer

Last edited by geraldfryjr; 20th March 2011 at 04:06 AM.
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Old 20th March 2011, 04:30 AM   #33
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The other reason is, What does't stick to it?
As this can be a problem when setting up jig's for the construction processes.

Gee, what else haven't I covered about building model air planes?
The covering? jerr
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Old 20th March 2011, 10:16 AM   #34
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Sorry, I was getting real tired and fell out on that last post. jer

Last edited by geraldfryjr; 20th March 2011 at 10:32 AM.
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Old 20th March 2011, 10:37 AM   #35
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I can't tell if the diference between the N42 and N45 is very much.
The N42 seems to be the better deal. jer
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Old 20th March 2011, 11:39 AM   #36
MiiB is offline MiiB  Denmark
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I Denmark sometimes in the 80/90'ies there was a kind of movement building Magnepan Apogee type of speakers...As DIY....
I believe this link holds most of the needed information

Planar Loudspeakers Ribbon Foil Speakers Project, magnetostatic design

Last edited by MiiB; 20th March 2011 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 21st March 2011, 03:27 AM   #37
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I did try using conductive silver paint on some polyester leader tape.
Altough my technique could have been improved it was a rather messy and I wasted quite a bit of it.

It did add considerable mass and when I tried to corragate it ,it just peeled.
It seem be some sort of silcone type base as it was soft and rubbery.

With the plating method with copper, I found it difficult to get a consistent thin coating.
The copper was very pure and brittle and cracked when you looked at funny.
It had surface that resmebled sandpaper I'm sure this had alot to do with the base coating aswell.
Not to mention that it's final mass was to high to be usable.

So I gave up on that idea.

Then I had aquired some aluminized 1/4" mylar ribbon that is used for party decorations.

It also as a high resistance of about 50 ohms to 100 ohms per foot.

I wil have an exact measurement for you tomorow as I have miss placed my meter(it is in the gerage and it is raining).

Because of the resistance factor I have not yet tried it.
I am wondering If using a step up transformer would compensate for this?

Another method (in the back of my mind) would be to electroplate a thin layer of copper on it.
But in the long run there are problems of the copper and aluminium reacting with one another. jer
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Old 21st March 2011, 08:51 AM   #38
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Here some great threads to read,only a start.
Such a wealth of information and probably an answer for every question one might have, from making transformers and ribbons to magnet types and structures and my favorite,how to calculate effeciency. jer


Another DIY Ribbon thread


A 60" Ribbon w/TL Loaded Extremis Hybrid


DIY Ribbon Construction - STEELE


DIY 70" ribbon

Last edited by geraldfryjr; 21st March 2011 at 08:54 AM.
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