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Old 6th July 2014, 05:02 PM   #111
tyu is offline tyu  United States
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Thanks for all the info an cool pic........ on the ribbons&tranfourmers..............i now well pull out my Apogee Stages an Centau Minors......same 26" MT ribbons.....No transfourmers needed..........justsaying

keep up the good work...........
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Old 6th July 2014, 05:31 PM   #112
ghemml is offline ghemml  Singapore
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Thanks
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Old 25th July 2014, 08:53 AM   #113
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Very Nice Build !!!

jer
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Old 4th August 2014, 02:39 PM   #114
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I have problems with my ribbons, see avatar.

When I play loud, there happens something at the ribbon connection points.

The volumes goes down, and the only remedy is to dismount ribbon and polish the connection copper plates.

Maybe I must change the copper for gold?

Last edited by JonasKarud; 4th August 2014 at 02:40 PM. Reason: ju
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Old 4th August 2014, 06:40 PM   #115
tyu is offline tyu  United States
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If i am right you ribbon is prue Alumimum some say the best......................Apogee on my stages capton back ribbon for MT..... let the magnet stop at about a 1/2" obove the ribbon connection point .....cooling down point an no move ment.........then latter thay let the magnets go all the way down .... then added a suspensions point in the lower middel of the ribbon............go to the site some info
good luck

http://www.apogeespeakers.com/manual...eplacement.pdf
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Old 4th August 2014, 06:42 PM   #116
rayma is offline rayma  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonasKarud View Post
I have problems with my ribbons, see avatar.

When I play loud, there happens something at the ribbon connection points.

The volumes goes down, and the only remedy is to dismount ribbon and polish the connection copper plates.

Maybe I must change the copper for gold?
Maybe the copper near the connection could be tinned or gold plated.
Or, is the connection just getting loose - could it be soldered instead?

Last edited by rayma; 4th August 2014 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 4th August 2014, 07:36 PM   #117
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Alu. has an oxide layer on it and this layer is highly insulating.

Have you tried scuffing up the Alu, at the connections as well.

As this may be a bit difficult to do depend on the thickness of your material you can also try removing the oxide layer with a weak solution of Sodium Hydroxide at the connection ends.

I have had similar issues before when using Alu window screen for for my ESL stators as well as connections to the diaphragm using Alu. tape.

So now I soak the screens in the solution (Etching) as this guaranties a positive connection to all of the wires in the mesh before I coat them using only a few wires for connections from the woven mesh.

This works good and I use good ole steel wool to scuff up the Alu. tape parts, these connections have now lasted for at least 10 years or so without any issues as tested.

I few of my panels would not even work at all at First try or just worked for a little while and intermittently , until I had removed the oxide layer and that was at very high voltages too!!!

FWIW

jer

Last edited by geraldfryjr; 4th August 2014 at 07:38 PM.
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Old 5th August 2014, 07:34 AM   #118
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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The copper aluminium interface will corrode in the presence of moisture.
After the coper and aluminium faces have been cleaned, is there a way to keep the air out of the interface? Conductive grease maybe?
__________________
regards Andrew T.
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Old 5th August 2014, 08:11 AM   #119
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Ok, thanks.

I will try this one, for a start:

Silver Conductive Pen | MG Chemicals
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Old 5th August 2014, 01:26 PM   #120
Atom666 is offline Atom666  Canada
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If I remember correctly the solution suggested on the Bass DIY list from years ago for the Carver ribbons which had the same copper/aluminum connection was Vaseline.
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