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Old 2nd January 2013, 07:06 PM   #461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeltaStar View Post
My ears did say there was to much, I pinked them at 60' where I sit, Thats how I came up with about 3db. Al
In that case, my suggestion might be to play with the toe-in of the speakers. In other words, try having the panels not facing directly at the listening position.

You could also experiment with adding some resistance in series with the primary of the HF transformer. However, since the HF transformer covers a fairly broad range, that might drop some of the upper midrange too, which may or may not address your perception of too much top-end.
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Old 6th January 2013, 02:06 PM   #462
timon59 is offline timon59  Canada
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Greetings all, this is my first post so please tell me if I are doing this in the wrong place. If I am, sorry. I have a 100 wpc hybrid amp with which I am driving model 4's.Plays loud ( 12x14 foot room ) sounds great. Just picked up a set of 1+1's. I spoke with the builder of the amp, who suggested the amp may have trouble at higher volumes and told me he could put a coupling transformer between the amp and each interface so that the amp only sees a safe 4 ohm load. Any ideas/opinions? Thanks
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Old 6th January 2013, 03:56 PM   #463
tyu is offline tyu  United States
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Just picked up a set of 1+1's. I spoke with the builder of the amp, who suggested the amp may have trouble at higher volumes and told me he could put a coupling transformer between the amp and each interface so that the amp only sees a safe 4 ohm load.....

well put the amp on the 1+1s an see if it can drive the panels...
http://www.zeroimpedance.com/....ck out this site...these thigs work in some setups an i think theres a in home 60day retrune....good luck
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Old 7th January 2013, 12:22 PM   #464
timon59 is offline timon59  Canada
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Hey tyu thanks for the info. Those transformers might do the trick,has anyone here used them? I hooked up the 1+1's to the hybrid amp and they sound great. The only problem is that If I crank them and the amp says oh oh can't do this I could fry my mosfet output devices that are supposedly irreplaceable. I don't care to take the chance. Thanks again.
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Old 7th January 2013, 02:29 PM   #465
tyu is offline tyu  United States
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Well the 1+1s are realy just one panel....when you are seting at ear level!
An you have the M4s..an your amp runs fine...is this right?
So dont think that even with a biger amp or the ZreOs autiofourmers your going to get massif output....
Most of the people that like the 1+1s run them in a smaller room,or thay know there a lot less output out of one 9"X 48" panel ...veas 4 panels 2 9"X48" an 28"X48" in each of the M4s...
I have had most of the older 1s,M2s,M3s M4s An 1+1s An 2+2s... i like the M3 made out of 3ea 9"X48" ea speaker.... No 8"X48"s... like the nom.....M3s
lot of people say the 1+1 have the best sound stage...but thay should hear 3ea. 9"panels flat...like the 1+1 panels...So it just tradoffs like most things...
There are some mods that can be done to the 121 interfaces ....after all there 25-30 years old...like new- better caps...new bias doides caps....not a lot of $$ for great gains...
There A LOT of info on this on these site...Good luck.....Long live Acoustats
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Old 8th January 2013, 01:20 AM   #466
timon59 is offline timon59  Canada
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Yes tyu the amp ran fine and plenty loud for me (NOT concert levels) with the 4's and are running the 1+1's at decent volume, I'm just worried that it may not take too much to hit the limit of the amp, and then it's too late. I'm not looking for huge volume, when I pushed the 4's with a Mac 2125 (120 per side) loud for me had the macs meters in peaking a little over 20 watts. To clarify, the 4's have blue medallion transformers rebuilt by Roy Esposito rebuilt 2 years ago with the c mod, and the 1+1's have blue medallion trans from the factory, recently serviced. I should probably hook the modded interface to the 1+1's. And yes, a friend has the 3's with servos, wow. Thanks again for the info.
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Old 8th January 2013, 02:42 AM   #467
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Originally Posted by timon59 View Post
Yes tyu the amp ran fine and plenty loud for me (NOT concert levels) with the 4's and are running the 1+1's at decent volume, I'm just worried that it may not take too much to hit the limit of the amp, and then it's too late. I'm not looking for huge volume, when I pushed the 4's with a Mac 2125 (120 per side) loud for me had the macs meters in peaking a little over 20 watts. To clarify, the 4's have blue medallion transformers rebuilt by Roy Esposito rebuilt 2 years ago with the c mod, and the 1+1's have blue medallion trans from the factory, recently serviced. I should probably hook the modded interface to the 1+1's. And yes, a friend has the 3's with servos, wow. Thanks again for the info.
Hi timon, Don't forget that the Acoustat 1+1s are the most difficult to drive of ALL the Acoustat line around 81db i have owned and been around Acoustat's for more than 40 years i love them all but what they say about them having the best sound stage well it's true at least for me the only model that i heard BETTER was my friend Jocelyn's DIY Spectra 8800s and that for me as been the BEST speakers i have ever heard in more than 40 years i have no doubt that there is something out there that is better BUT at least three or four times the price believe me when i say dollar for dollar NOTHING even come's close and yes i am BIAS.
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Old 8th January 2013, 10:53 PM   #468
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Hi all just a brief intro. I recently bought a pair of acoustat Model 3's for $400 that have never been opened up or modified . They work great and sound fantastic. They are definitely keepers! I've already contacted Roy Esposito and will have my interfaces done, including both the C and the Air mods in the Spring.

I'm running Emotiva XPA-1 Monoblocks 500 watts into 8 ohms, 1000 into 4. Even they run out of juice on the Acoustats. I'm not quite sure if the protection is kicking the amps off due to too much current out, or not enough in, but they do trip relatively early. My theory is they see the low impedance of the Acoustats as a short circuit and bail to save themselves.

I'm wondering if these autoformers might be the solution, but $450 is a bit too dear for me to potentially toss down the rat hole. I think instead I'm going to invest in a decent subwoofer to take some of the burden off both the amps and the speakers. Ther amps seem to kick off mostly during the loud bass passages.

I'll be lurking and learning, and hopefully not putting my foot in my mouth (too often). Carry on!
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Old 9th January 2013, 02:18 AM   #469
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Meat Popsicle, How loud are you trying to play those 3's , I get 85DB with ease using a lowball amp the Hafler 220 rated 100wpc, and thats at sitting 60' from them, and thats way way to loud for me at most time's. maybe the room is to small for them, they need alota space to breathe in, or they suck the amp dry cause they can't make sound in close qaurters.
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Old 9th January 2013, 02:25 AM   #470
john65b is offline john65b  United States
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Meat - try adding a series resistor on pos out to speaker -start with a white coffin .47ohm 20W, then a 1 ohm - and give it a shot. My Model 3's brought nearly all my amps to their knees, even my ICEPower 1000ASP at 1000 wpc. The only amp that took everything was my Krell KSA-50 clone with a 1200VA tranny. You may find the added resistor may not sound good, but worth a shot. An amp cutting out at high volume doesn't sound good either, no?
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