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Old 1st May 2012, 10:54 PM   #241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ticknpop View Post
While Solen may be a step up from the original caps Acoustat used I replaced the Solens with MIT PPFXS and RTX bypasses in both my Acoustats, Martin Logan Requests, and CLX - each time with noticeable improvement in detail, resolution, and dynamics. Yes very expensive and big, but really worth it if you want to hear what your electrostatics can do. The Dueland resistors he used are the best, their capacitors are very good too, but cost more than a car to do 4 caps in each of the CLX's
Like i have said before i don't know much in diy but i know that the Caddock MS-322 resistors in my Acoustat's are also expensive $65.00 each compared to what they replaced there was a difference most of the time you get what you pay for the Audience Auricaps are not bad either at least to me, first Acoustat was a good product with 1980 parts it is even a better one today with much better parts.
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Old 2nd May 2012, 05:01 PM   #242
tyu is online now tyu  United States
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Thanks for the pic...Mr Acoustat.....were is the high frc.tranfourmer??.... i see the Low frc.
is it under the bias board..
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Old 2nd May 2012, 07:07 PM   #243
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Hi tyu like i have already mentioned i know nothing about diy i will ask my friend that does the mods and will get back to you. André
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Old 6th May 2012, 12:50 AM   #244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bear View Post
Ticking is likely a discharge in the cells, not the HV supply.

This can come from dirt, dust, excess humidity, too little humidity, AND importantly the wires at the ends (typically) of the cells coming loose from the glue bond and becoming too close to the cells.

Try this - you have to remove the socks from the top... take the top plate off, take out the 4 billion staples (why they used so many??), slide the sock down... speaker can be on for all this , if you like...

In a PITCH DARK ROOM, sit there and listen and look for the discharge!

Quiet room helps too... late night usually best...

You may have to move your vantage point to find it...

In the case of a loose stator wire, the cures have been posted before...

If it is dirt, the cells should first be vacuumed, preferably with a soft hair vacuum brush (not these hard synthetic modern ones) (make sure IT is clean by washing it and making sure it is dry). If that fails, then they can be washed, but you have to make sure that if you dip them, not to try to lift them in the horizontal position and get water load on the mylar...

those instructions too were discussed some time back...

One danger is that persistent arcs in the same spot across something like plastic will create a carbon track that is difficult to remove and defeat... but usually not impossible.

_-_-bear
Thanks again Bear - That did it. A single stink bug got in there at about the place it was ticking. Very strange. But it was like a hunk of pop corn.

I wonder how Acoustats will work on flys? Zap!
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Old 12th May 2012, 02:05 PM   #245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyu View Post
Thanks for the pic...Mr Acoustat.....were is the high frc.tranfourmer??.... i see the Low frc.
is it under the bias board..
Yes it's under there somewhere.
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Old 12th May 2012, 07:58 PM   #246
tyu is online now tyu  United States
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..Vary good i like the bias..... thanks
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Old 23rd May 2012, 03:40 AM   #247
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Hi Guys,

Wow. I have been slowly working on upgrading my Spectra 6600's for a few years now. I had no idea this thread was going on. I could have used you

I am at the point where I have ordered custom resistors to re-do my interfaces. I believe I bought the caddocks you mentioned, MrAcoustat (it was a long time ago that I ordered them, and I'm working at sea right now so I can't check).

I want to precision match them. For this task, I bought an old M3 LCRZ kit and have built it and it works.

I bought more resistors than I needed to get the job done, so that I could precision-match them with the M3 meter.

So I am learning how to do testing to the resolution levels that the M3 offers me. I have to make a custom jig in order to keep measurements consistent.

What I would REALLY like to do is burn these resistors in before testing. These are the resistors in the high voltage part of the circuit. However, who has a 5kV power supply, and who would WANT one?! Yikes.

For you dudes out there who have done a lot of component burn-in and matching before, would I get the majority of the burn-in results by burning them in at 120V for a few days before measuring them? Or should I just accept that I won't be able to measure the drift because I can't get close to 5kV in a burning rack?

All the best,
ccm
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Old 23rd May 2012, 04:32 AM   #248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coffeecupman View Post
Hi Guys,

Wow. I have been slowly working on upgrading my Spectra 6600's for a few years now. I had no idea this thread was going on. I could have used you

I am at the point where I have ordered custom resistors to re-do my interfaces. I believe I bought the caddocks you mentioned, MrAcoustat (it was a long time ago that I ordered them, and I'm working at sea right now so I can't check).

I want to precision match them. For this task, I bought an old M3 LCRZ kit and have built it and it works.

I bought more resistors than I needed to get the job done, so that I could precision-match them with the M3 meter.

So I am learning how to do testing to the resolution levels that the M3 offers me. I have to make a custom jig in order to keep measurements consistent.

What I would REALLY like to do is burn these resistors in before testing. These are the resistors in the high voltage part of the circuit. However, who has a 5kV power supply, and who would WANT one?! Yikes.

For you dudes out there who have done a lot of component burn-in and matching before, would I get the majority of the burn-in results by burning them in at 120V for a few days before measuring them? Or should I just accept that I won't be able to measure the drift because I can't get close to 5kV in a burning rack?

All the best,
ccm
Ok Paul sent you Jocelyn's e-mail address the resistors are Caddocks MS-322 and the caps are Audience Auricaps 5000 volts. http://www.caddock.com/online_catalo...Lit/TypeMS.pdf
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Old 25th May 2012, 08:58 PM   #249
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I didn't get Jocelyn's email address, MrAcoustat. Did you PM it or send it to my email address?

Thanks,
ccm
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Old 3rd June 2012, 03:55 PM   #250
Daudio1 is offline Daudio1  United States
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Hi,

While looking for something else, I wandering into this forum and discovered this thread, so after joining up, here is my Acoustat experience:

I bought my first Acoustat, the Model X, in 1978, then 2 years later upgraded it to a Monitor 4. Did a number of Servo amp mods and lots of repairs. One interesting episode was trying some tantalum caps. One burst, and made a sound like the world was coming to an end ! I ran back behind the speakers to see the most beautiful purple glow from the splashed electrolytic inside the amp cage. I would have liked to watch it for longer, but...

Too many breakdowns, running out of replacement transformers, and my then wife's distain for huge speakers sent them to storage, and later into a black hole of an audio hoarder
In 1995, single again, I bought a pair of Spectra 1100's, and proceeded to mod them too. A polypropylene cap in the interface input was amazing !, I drove them with 2 ARC D52-'d' s (my upgrade mods) each sitting on top of the woofer boxes, behind the panel, vertically bi-amped. Later, doing party duty on my back porch, they both suffered woofer destruction, due to a bad receiver, or maybe temperature variations, not 100% sure. That promoted some research into replacement drivers, and the results are here.

In 2001 I obtained my current Spectra 3300's, and am very happy with them especially with the assist of two Velodyne 12" subs. At one point I experimented with both the 3300 and 1100 (panel only) running together. It was very nice, but impractical in my smallish living room. I still miss the overall sound of the my old Monitor 4's with the Servo amps

I have been using a Marsh A400S 200 watt MOSFET amp with my 3300's, but noticed that a few recordings (Gladiator Soundtrack), could clip the amp on some energetic passages, so I tried an Adcom 5800 (Nelson Pass design) and now I can clip the panels, but not the amp ! The Adcom 5800 is great at driving larger Acoustats, but runs hot and spins my electric meter.

I noticed some discussion of 1+1's lack of bass response, and I wonder why not add side baffles to reduce bass cancellation ? There is lots of info on dipole speaker systems on the web...

Dave
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