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Old 1st May 2012, 06:30 PM   #231
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I have a question for Acoustatanswerman (or anybody). Didn't Acoustat use, at some point in history, aluminized mylar for membranes?

I have picture in my head from an old danish hifi magazine showing a Acoustat panel with aluminized mylar....
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Old 1st May 2012, 06:37 PM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moray james View Post
Steve: the size of the ESL panel has no impact on its upper frequency response. Six inches square or one inch square will extend to the same frequency if they have the same diaphragm material. The narrow line source strip will provide wide dispersion of high frequencies. As SY mentioned there will be interaction between the panel sections in the horizontal plane. I don't imagine this will be any worse than with the 5 or 6 degree angle between vertical panels in a 2+2 Acoustat for example. But I think that when you compare a 2+2 Acoustat to a 0ne plus 0ne Acoustat the difference in stage and image is likely as a result of the interaction of the two vertical panels in the 2+2. The 0ne plus 0ne provides better stage and image at the cost of overall output and bass level. Best regards Moray James.
Hi Moray i come on this site because i'm an Acoustat fanboy ( 66 years young ) i know NOTHING about DIY i leave this for my friend Jocelyn in 28 years i have owned Spectra 22s - 33s - 2+2s - and three pairs of 1+1s loved them all BUT the 1+1s are my favorites BUT you are so right if you like your music loud then the 2+2s are a better choice BUT again if you have the room i have a couple of friends with 6s - 66s - and highly modified 6600s for the money NOTHING come's close i want to thank you for helping Acoustat lovers preserve their speakers. André
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Old 1st May 2012, 06:53 PM   #233
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Originally Posted by charlesp210 View Post
The picture shows the inside of my Acoustat Red Medallion C interface with the new Solen 47uF capacitor in front. It looks like the new capacitor (bottom) will fit either in front of the circuit board on right side, or above big transformer in back. There's more space in back, but nothing convenient to support the capacitor with and a long lead would be required, and there's high voltage back there. I'm leaning toward front installation.

In front, the capacitor could rise straight from where the fuseholder is, or lie flat above the fuse and two speaker terminals. Either way space is very tight, and one concern is that the capacitor would be very close to the 50K power resistor. If the resistor gets hot it could damage the capacitor, and there is high voltage on that resistor too. I might be able to give it "just enough" space, it looks like I could give it about 5mm space. Opportunities for support are also limited, but it would be somewhat self-supporting from it's own lead, so doesn't need that much additional support. If it falls "down" in operation it simply hits the wood base of the speaker. where the interace is installed.

I could possibly bend the power resistor out of the way, bit by bit using one or two sets of longnose pliers. The danger is that I could break it off it's solder pads, or, even worse, crack the old circuit board.

Another thought crosses my mind too. I could connect the capacitor BEFORE the fuse, so the capacitor effectively bypasses the fuse for the high frequencies. The speaker would still be protected from DC and low frequencies, which is likely where any problem would be. The fuse doesn't really do a great job of protection anyway from sustained loud music, sustained loud music can burn the transformer without melting the fuse. The fuse mainly protects against amplifier failure, and also provides nuisance warnings that you are playing too loud.

I could also have the capacitor outside, either as an independent entity (with new input terminal) allowing easy changes, but clumsy and space consuming, or strapped to the case with twist tie (requires new holes in case, not easy) or glued (ugly).
Here is a solution, change the interface box for a bigger one.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 1st May 2012, 07:03 PM   #234
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Originally Posted by speedracer5 View Post
I think that remains to be seen Andre!LOL
Rub a finger across the top of one of your doors. Though I wouldn't presume you do less dusting than me. I qualify as ultra lazy in that department. I see you have a newer frame that does not have finished wood showing on the side rails but has a sock covering the whole "monolith". Am I seeing that correct in the pics?


Here are a few pictures of the finished product and yes I LOVED THEM.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 1st May 2012, 07:28 PM   #235
noelm is offline noelm  United States
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Click the image to open in full size.

Andre, how did your friend, Jocelyn, modify the interface?
Seeing the wall wart power supply inside the box makes me think that he combined a Spectra interface with the regular MK121C interface.
Why?
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Old 1st May 2012, 08:06 PM   #236
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Originally Posted by noelm View Post
Click the image to open in full size.

Andre, how did your friend, Jocelyn, modify the interface?
Seeing the wall wart power supply inside the box makes me think that he combined a Spectra interface with the regular MK121C interface.
Why?
Sent you a private message
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Old 1st May 2012, 08:08 PM   #237
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So it's a 1+1 Spectra?
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Old 1st May 2012, 09:19 PM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hella356 View Post
So it's a 1+1 Spectra?
What I see inside the interface enclosure is the audio electronics for a standard MK-121 interface, mated with the ultrasonic power supply from the Spectra series. This does not make it a 1+1 Spectra. That would require segmented panel-drive, which the MK-121 does not support.

By the way, a very nice job of custom packaging!
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Old 1st May 2012, 09:26 PM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonasKarud View Post
I have a question for Acoustatanswerman (or anybody). Didn't Acoustat use, at some point in history, aluminized mylar for membranes?

I have picture in my head from an old danish hifi magazine showing a Acoustat panel with aluminized mylar....
Acoustat never used aluminized mylar. All products, from the beginning to the end, used a heat-shrinkable Mylar diaphragm with a custom-formulated, carbon black-based coating that was applied by brushing it on. In the late 80's Acoustat did introduce an improved, higher-resistivity version of that coating, but to the naked eye it looked the same - flat black.

Aluminized Mylar is generally considered too conductive to be of any use in an ESL design (which is not to say that some brands may have used an aluminum-bearing compound in their coating). Constant-Charge operation requires a high-resistance coating.
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Old 1st May 2012, 09:36 PM   #240
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While Solen may be a step up from the original caps Acoustat used I replaced the Solens with MIT PPFXS and RTX bypasses in both my Acoustats, Martin Logan Requests, and CLX - each time with noticeable improvement in detail, resolution, and dynamics. Yes very expensive and big, but really worth it if you want to hear what your electrostatics can do. The Dueland resistors he used are the best, their capacitors are very good too, but cost more than a car to do 4 caps in each of the CLX's

Last edited by ticknpop; 1st May 2012 at 09:41 PM.
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