My 2:nd ESL-attempt

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Hi SM7UYJ,

Don't use the thin double sided tape. It will not last long. The tape would stick to the Mylar well, but it will eventually give up strength on the other side. I have tried that many times and the longest time I can get out of it is 1.5 month.

Here is what I'm using. It's so far so good, but I can't guarantee. I use contact cement and thin double sided tapes. I apply a thin layer of contact cement on the spacer and wait for about 2-3 minutes and I put a layer of thin double sided tape on top. Then I glue the Mylar to the tape. I have been testing this method for the last 2 months and so far so good. :)

Wachara C.
 
Hi SM7UYJ,

Don't use the thin double sided tape. It will not last long. The tape would stick to the Mylar well, but it will eventually give up strength on the other side. I have tried that many times and the longest time I can get out of it is 1.5 month.

Here is what I'm using. It's so far so good, but I can't guarantee. I use contact cement and thin double sided tapes. I apply a thin layer of contact cement on the spacer and wait for about 2-3 minutes and I put a layer of thin double sided tape on top. Then I glue the Mylar to the tape. I have been testing this method for the last 2 months and so far so good. :)

Wachara C.

I don't know of a double-backed tape that sticks well to PVC either but it wouldn't hurt to give 3M a call and speak with a tape specialist. There are many specialized tape formulations available and also brush-on primers that can promote adhesion to low energy surfaces (even Teflon can be etched and bonded). Just a thought....
 
With the tapes I have tried, I get the weakest bond to the Mylar - It sticks like ..... to the PVC!? I'll have to do some more tests!

The "boatglue" (also said to be used in industry for cars, plumbing, construction - glues metal, concreate, wood, glas, some plastics etc.) is SMP-based, if that helps?

http://www.tremco-illbruck.se/celumdb/documents/LIM_BYGGFOG_SDS_S_4484.pdf

I tested it as it was the only construction glue they had that was black.
The glue is not resistant to solvents, soit could be removed if I need to take it apart some day.

For gluing the film to the spacers I have got hold off some Epoxi used to glue airplanes wich I'll give a try and se how well it sticks to PVC and Mylar!

/Roger
 
That's much better...
MS or SMP polymers are "siliconized" polyurethanes. Strong enough and flexible as well.
Nice find. It seems that sheer force of 16 kg per sm square is more than adequate to hold mylar film.
Again I have talked to marine people, who's been working with plywood and wood reparing and constructing boats yahts etc for ages. The boatglue is the staff waterproof plywood is made of (including veneer of course). Phenolic and resorcin resins...
Again NICE and USEFUL find. Thanks
 
alexberg: "Boatglue" was perhaps a bad name, but the sales person in the store sold me the stuff saying it was comonly used on boats! :)

The actual name translated is "Glue and construction sealant".

Anyway, it seems to bond well to the PVC and the powder coated stators.
I'll try to glue some Mylar this week and se how it holds.
First I'll have to glue one off my frames so I can mount the panel for proper testing.

/R
 
Started to mill the glued frames today.

SA11.jpg


10mm deep, 15mm wide slot in wich I plan to place the panels.

SA12.jpg


A smaller frame will be screwed to the back and help fixate the elements as well as help to stiffen the baffle.

/R
 
Glue tests


SA14.jpg



I tried some of the different glue types I had at home to se wich sticks best to both Mylar and PVC.

The test is highly unscientific, I glued a 20mm strip off PVC to 12µm Mylar, left the glue to cure for 24h+ and then tried to rip them apart.
I did not measure the force needed, just riped them apart by hand to get a "feel" for how well they bonded.

If I rate no bond as 1 and perfect bond (Mylar rips before the glue lets go) to 10, I got the following results:

A. Pattex contact cement (clear, plastic-acetone based) Bond 3
B. Plastic Padding contact cement (rubber - acetone) Bond 2-3
C. UHU Power contact cement (plastic-acetone) Bond 4
D. Glue for repairing Quad ESLs (plastic-acetone) Bond 3
E. Superglue,gel Bond 2
F. Epoxi (airplane, 24h to cure) Bond 1
G.Epoxi, strong 15min Bond 2
H. Silicone (sanitary) Bond 5-6
I. Doublesided tape (thin) Bond 8-9
J. "Boat glue" Bond 5

Both the PVC and the Mylar were untreated!

Silicone is a good candidate as it can handle the created ozone well but the doublesided tape is so much easier/faster to use :confused:

I think I'll have to do some more tests with the tape!

/R
 
I get mine from RS RS | Workshop Consumables | Adhesives, Sealants and Tapes | Superglues | Superglues

I find it needs pressure applied and time to dry if the surfaces are not permeable - it tracks which is good when you want it to0 (I once glued my Mylar to my plastic frame with epoxy and found it had a 1" gap that had not glued - it had kept tension so I ran the super glue on the edge and it filled the gap nicely).
 
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