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Old 22nd December 2010, 08:08 AM   #11
DaveG is offline DaveG  United States
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Hi Roger - any thoughts yet on how you are going to configure the bass panels with the stat panels?
Dave
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Old 22nd December 2010, 08:45 AM   #12
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Hi,

with this combination ESL+Magneplanar you probably have a lot more freedom in choosing the crossover point than you would in case of a ESL+dynamic woofer. Perhaps a smallish ESL panel would be quite enough -- basically taking over the function of the Magneplanar's tweeter section? Just a thought...

Kenneth
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Old 22nd December 2010, 10:24 AM   #13
SM7UYJ is offline SM7UYJ  Sweden
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Right now I'm repairing the pair of MG-IIs that are in best condition as a "slow start" to get som feel for how to rewire.
Most likely I'll use the other pair with 5m film and wire the whole panel as a bass panel.

Kenneth: You are probably right and a small panel makes everything so much easier - less d/s - less EHT - small audio transformer e.t.c.

I have some 1000mm stators that I can cut to 50-80mm wide strips and give it a try!

/Roger
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Old 22nd December 2010, 01:01 PM   #14
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Sounds like a plan! I'm very curious, if the two panels will 'blend' well. I guess there's no reason why not.
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Old 23rd December 2010, 05:25 AM   #15
SM7UYJ is offline SM7UYJ  Sweden
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Did the other panel the other night, but tried aluminum foil - works great!

Click the image to open in full size.

No fuzz with glue - just clean the Mylar and tape the foil on the film.
A bit tricky doing the turns but I have used this foil in my ESL-speakers EHT-loops so I know how to fold it!

With a 9m long 1.5mm wide strip, I now have a 4.5 Ohm coil so I'll have to adjust the cap in the XO.

I think it sounds better than the one with the Cu-thread, but I'll do some measurments to verify.

Any one know off a good trick to solder the aluminum foil?

I've got it to stick to the binding posts using the old solder that was already on them, but would like to ad some new fresh solder as well!

/Roger
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Old 23rd December 2010, 07:12 AM   #16
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Nice!

Wachara C.
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Old 23rd December 2010, 07:24 AM   #17
SM7UYJ is offline SM7UYJ  Sweden
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"Any one know off a good trick to solder the aluminum foil?"

I found a tip on using WD-40 as fluss/air block - will give it a try!

/Roger
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Old 24th December 2010, 12:13 PM   #18
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Soldering aluminium is a pain in the as^2. The problem with raw Al is the extremely hard layer of alumina which forms within seconds of air contact. I done it a few times but never found an easy, reliable way. Best bet is to mechanically remove the alumina layer (e.g., by sanding) immediately before soldering, and using an acid-based flux if you can find one. Alternatively, wipe the aluminium with sulfuric acid (from hardware store or pharmacy) to dissolve the alumina. (Wear safety goggles)

Good luck!

Edit: apparently, WD-40 contains nitric acid, so yes, that could work too.
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Old 24th December 2010, 01:24 PM   #19
john65b is online now john65b  United States
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I have rewired many Magnepans, and for tweeter section rewires, I just used Copper Magnet wire from Radio Shack. Worked perfectly. Originals are aluminum, but the Copper may be a bit of an improvement if you ask me.

I have never re-Mylar'ed a panel, tho. I always got hung up on how to best tension the Mylar for proper tuning.

BTW - If anyone has ever heard bass on Magnepan Tympani Bass Panels with Icepower 1000ASP modules, it is nothing short of awesome.
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Old 24th December 2010, 05:04 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john65b View Post
I have rewired many Magnepans, and for tweeter section rewires, I just used Copper Magnet wire from Radio Shack.
That's what I was going to try with mine , simple enameled copper. What gage ? & what resistance did you achieve ?
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