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Old 22nd May 2010, 07:49 PM   #1
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Default Martin Logan SL3 = dead => help

My Martin Logan SL3 has the following problem:
Pops with a few seconds intervall. The sound in the panel is very weak but the base is normal.

I have vacuum cleaned the panel after having the power switch of for 24 hours.

I tried to open the backside but it's really stuck and I don't dare to use any excessive force.

So my questions are:

1 What is the problem?

2 How do I get inside without damage anything?

3 Does anybody have a picture and/or a schematics of the inside.
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Old 22nd May 2010, 09:32 PM   #2
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That intermittent "pop" could be arcing. I shorted a panel once and it had similar symptoms. When I dismantled it I found several burned areas along the panel edges due to arcing. I ended up completely rebuilding the panel (recoated the stators and installed a new diaphragm). Mine isn't a Martin Logan though and I don't know how yours are assembled or wired up. Good luck with it.
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Old 22nd May 2010, 09:45 PM   #3
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
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The pop sound comes from the hole panel so I don't think the problem is there. The stators are insulated with some coating.
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Old 22nd May 2010, 09:46 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peranders View Post
My Martin Logan SL3 has the following problem:
Pops with a few seconds intervall. The sound in the panel is very weak but the base is normal.
Like Charlie mentioned, the repetitive pops are most likely arcing.
When the arc occurs it does induce a voltage transient into the whole panel so a lot of times it sounds like the pop is coming from the whole panel.

To locate the location of the arc, power up the speaker in a completely darkened room, or closet. Once your eyes have adapted to the dark, you should be able to see a small blue arc somewhere on the panel each time you hear a pop.

Once you know where the arcing is occurring, investigate the location with a magnifying glass; both front and back sides. Sometimes there is some small bit that has stuck to the edge of the foam tape spacers that the vacuum couldn't suck loose.

Last edited by bolserst; 22nd May 2010 at 09:53 PM.
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Old 23rd May 2010, 07:40 PM   #5
Kontra is offline Kontra  Russian Federation
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Default dust

In my ESL sometimes collects dust. I always get rid of dust so: Blow it out of ESL carefully. My vacuum cleaner has input and output. Hose to exit the vacuum cleaner and blowing dust. Hose to wash the dust and dry. Compressed air from a cylinder is no good. Water condenses and falls into the ESL. Suitable for even the hand pump. To blow out at once - see the light from the HV discharge in absolute darkness. There blow once. The discharge will be lost. No fan included in ESL. Before you blow off!
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Old 23rd May 2010, 08:27 PM   #6
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
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Can't see any arching.
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Old 25th May 2010, 11:27 PM   #7
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Hej P-A!

I have late model SL3. You might use a tool in one of the empty screw holes to pull the cover loose. Slight sideways force on the speaker terminals might work too. The cover is just stuck on the old seal. Worst case, you might need to push through the woofer hole.

Start your diagnosis by cleaning and re-connecting ALL the internal wire connections and push down on the 14-pin IC. If that doesn't help, then swap panels left to right to see if the problem is with the panel or the electronics. Let's see where that gets you.
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Old 31st May 2010, 05:33 AM   #8
Electrons are yellow and more is better!
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I have talked live to a ML representative which told me how to get inside the box. I'll let you know how it went.
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Old 5th June 2010, 08:10 PM   #9
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Switch out the speaker with another one, to be sure it is in fact the speaker, and not the amp.
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Old 11th June 2010, 09:34 AM   #10
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hi i have just repaired my martin logan aeruis i, i bought conductive coating from esr audio, what you need to to do with a knife be care full cut away at the sticky stuff at the top, and bottom, of the panel it is really easy. what you do next is get some distiled water and clean the panel until all the dirt comes off while you are waiting for the coating by post, then you mix the conductive coating with distiled water the type you put in car battery when it comes
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