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Old 5th June 2009, 03:12 AM   #11
Few is offline Few  United States
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If you want to speed up the etching process a bit you can try ferric chloride. In fact, for aluminum, you'll probably want to dilute the ferric chloride solution that's usually sold for etching circuit boards because it may react too fast (and exothermically) with aluminum. I ran into problems with the aluminum getting so hot it melted the plastic substrate I was sticking the aluminum to, so I'd suggest starting with a dilute solution and then gradually increasing the concentration until you find something that works quickly but doesn't damage the project.

That doesn't solve your resist problem, though. If you could make a stencil with the right pattern you might be able to use it to guide the spraying of something (paint?) onto the aluminum that adheres to the aluminum and doesn't quickly come off as you etch in an aqueous solution. You might be able to use your double-blade trick to make the stencil. Just a thought--not something I've tested.

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Old 5th June 2009, 06:33 AM   #12
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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thx for the info, well for the spiral it has to be etching double blade trick wont work have to use some foce and accuracy that wont combine i think.

well will try the stuff maybe because its faster the toner wil stil stay on. but ofcourse cant become to hot or it melts of again
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Old 7th June 2009, 11:24 AM   #13
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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hmm, well l the slightly bigger version i made still prety small 19 cm x 10cm and membrane only 6 x 15

can reach 500 hetz easy. i cant believe how they sound.

the push pull configuration helps allot, i can drive them with crossover at 500 hetz 12dB octave at ear splitting levels.

it think theres more to come.
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Old 7th June 2009, 11:56 AM   #14
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Hi WrineX,

Can you please post a drawing or picture of how the aluminum strip is applied to the mylar (the pattern I mean)?

Thanks
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Old 7th June 2009, 12:34 PM   #15
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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Ok well this image is just to show how the layout should look like, distances and amount of mangnet used an width of foil etc is all just way out of propotion. as you see on the images where i have al the this magnets glued or taped to the metal there are little gaps between the magnets 1 mm thick when aplying the thin foil it wil cover that gap, at the end of the magnet make a turn and go down again, then up the down then up then down until there are no gaps left
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Old 7th June 2009, 03:20 PM   #16
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Ah, so the foil needs to stay between the gaps in the magnets then.

Thanks!
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Old 18th June 2009, 10:40 PM   #17
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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well i played with them a bit, and come up with the folowing results.

its important tot make the turn on the mylar itself, when making the turns with the aluminum tape on the mylar instead of the spacer theres no resoanting aluminum tape, wich whas a problem whem played fullrange.

i can play 3 of them is series wich gave me a 5.4 Ohm DC resistance on a crappy meter. it can play fullrange without anything resonating, but ofcourse you wont have earth shaking bass. it will go as low as 250 - 150 easy. i should get some inprovemend when i stack some more of these panels, like 4 wich gave a healthy 7,2 ohm and another stack of 7,2 in paralel wich gives me 3,6 total DC so for the amp 4 ohm load could be driven by almost al amps. also gives an 6 dB increase in sound pressure 3 for the doubling of speakers and 3 dB of lowering the resistace witch results in a increase of power. handling will be the same as one stack in series at least for the speaker wires. so i think with these efficiency no smoking speaker wires on membrane , first it fries your ears then speakers. the amp is another story but my amp can handly it down to 2 ohms so no problem there.
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Old 6th July 2009, 05:23 AM   #18
R. Jamm is offline R. Jamm  United States
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Can you give a description of how these speakers sound? You stated that they can go down to 150 without problems, if you put three of them together—adding one more do you think it can get to 100 or jus a little lower? Do they give you a 3-d image? Are they holographic? More detail of what they sound like? What speaker’s do/would you compare them to?
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Old 6th July 2009, 03:25 PM   #19
WrineX is offline WrineX  Netherlands
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i would compare them to esl, they have more detail then my magnepans, but i noticed some probs with resonance frequency of the foil, so finding the right tension is a must when using fullrange

further they give a nice 3d image the higher frequency are great, adding only one pannel wont get the frequency to 100 i think, think allot of air has to be moved for the lower frequency's
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Old 8th July 2009, 03:51 AM   #20
R. Jamm is offline R. Jamm  United States
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Do you have any pictures of the back of the driver? Showing the mylar and the aluminium.
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