Anybody seen this type of planar speaker? - Page 2

WrineX · 1st June 2009, 09:06 AM

true, but that is only to keep costs down, push pull would be better

JAMESBOS · 15th August 2012, 07:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WrineX

true, but that is only to keep costs down, push pull would be better

Tried push pull not worth the effort in cost and sensitivity.

WrineX · 15th August 2012, 10:58 AM

I had aN increase of db About 3 db and in THE control was much better

oshifis · 15th August 2012, 02:19 PM

I also have a pair of these (under AKAI brand). It is a closed back structure. Would it be possible to open the back cover? It is made of cardboard or the like.

khbaur330162 · 17th August 2012, 02:29 AM

I believe you'd have to drill holes in the rear magnets to match the fronts (diamond dust drill bit meant for cutting glass, and use water as a coolant or they'll lose charge), or sacrifice another set of tweeters to donate their perforated magnets for the other pair.

oshifis · 17th August 2012, 07:25 PM

I digged them out of my drawer. This is marked on the back:
AKAI
4IT-SM3G
Z:8 Ohm
405

The back magnet is a soft ferrite, like some plastic. I can carve it with a knife.

khbaur330162 · 17th August 2012, 09:49 PM

Interesting. Well that should make drilling the holes a breeze, then. Disassembly might be a bit more tricky, however.

If the rest of the construction is like an SFI SZ-2T it might be easier to take it apart from the front. Get a jeweler's flat head, slip it under the metal clamping ring and work your way around while bending that lip up using the screwdriver as a lever. I say it might be easier approaching things from the front because the front magnet is a hard sintered ferrite that won't get damaged by the process. That said, it will most likely be a little difficult to remove the diaphragm since the the solder tabs have to be oriented at an angle in order to pull everything through that metal clamping ring.

I think if you take the rubber magnet and get it to attract the hard sintered one you'll be able to match their perimeters with one another, get a mechanical pencil to outline each perforation, and then just drill the holes accordingly. For reassembly they'll of course have to repel each other.

Of course, if the diaphragms are exactly the same as an SZ-2T (meaning the magnets change polarity similarly) you could buy a second pair of tweeters here and simply swap out the rubber magnets on your Akai for the front perforated ones on the new set.

oshifis · 19th August 2012, 07:00 PM

It is available in my country for about 2 USD:

ÁRWILL ELEKTRONIC elektronikai alkatrész kis- és nagykereskedés - 4IT-SM3G magassugárzó

Maybe I buy some for disassembling and experimenting with.

khbaur330162 · 20th August 2012, 02:36 AM

Sounds good.

This stuff might be no-brainer for you, but I figure it can't hurt. Few tips/bits of advice if you care for them: On reassembly, before fully re-clamping the magnets, you may want to make sure the perforations match between front and back. You can easily see this by holding the drivers up to a light source.

Also, just inside the metal clamp there's a little piece of plastic film that runs around perpendicular to the diaphragm which keeps everything from shorting out. You might want to devise a plan in order to not deform/destroy that little insulator piece when reinserting everything. You could bend the metal clamp piece a bit further to give yourself a little bit more working room, and/or you could use some Scotch tape to form a guide for the magnet to slip inside of.

Best of luck.

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1st June 2009, 09:06 AM	#11
WrineX diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Den Haag	true, but that is only to keep costs down, push pull would be better

15th August 2012, 10:58 AM	#13
WrineX diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Den Haag	I had aN increase of db About 3 db and in THE control was much better

15th August 2012, 02:19 PM	#14
oshifis diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Budapest, Hungary	I also have a pair of these (under AKAI brand). It is a closed back structure. Would it be possible to open the back cover? It is made of cardboard or the like.

17th August 2012, 02:29 AM	#15
khbaur330162 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2012	I believe you'd have to drill holes in the rear magnets to match the fronts (diamond dust drill bit meant for cutting glass, and use water as a coolant or they'll lose charge), or sacrifice another set of tweeters to donate their perforated magnets for the other pair.

17th August 2012, 07:25 PM	#16
oshifis diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Budapest, Hungary	I digged them out of my drawer. This is marked on the back: AKAI 4IT-SM3G Z:8 Ohm 405 The back magnet is a soft ferrite, like some plastic. I can carve it with a knife.

17th August 2012, 09:49 PM	#17
khbaur330162 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2012	Interesting. Well that should make drilling the holes a breeze, then. Disassembly might be a bit more tricky, however. If the rest of the construction is like an SFI SZ-2T it might be easier to take it apart from the front. Get a jeweler's flat head, slip it under the metal clamping ring and work your way around while bending that lip up using the screwdriver as a lever. I say it might be easier approaching things from the front because the front magnet is a hard sintered ferrite that won't get damaged by the process. That said, it will most likely be a little difficult to remove the diaphragm since the the solder tabs have to be oriented at an angle in order to pull everything through that metal clamping ring. I think if you take the rubber magnet and get it to attract the hard sintered one you'll be able to match their perimeters with one another, get a mechanical pencil to outline each perforation, and then just drill the holes accordingly. For reassembly they'll of course have to repel each other. Of course, if the diaphragms are exactly the same as an SZ-2T (meaning the magnets change polarity similarly) you could buy a second pair of tweeters here and simply swap out the rubber magnets on your Akai for the front perforated ones on the new set.

19th August 2012, 07:00 PM	#18
oshifis diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Budapest, Hungary	It is available in my country for about 2 USD: ÁRWILL ELEKTRONIC elektronikai alkatrész kis- és nagykereskedés - 4IT-SM3G magassugárzó Maybe I buy some for disassembling and experimenting with.

20th August 2012, 02:36 AM	#19
khbaur330162 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2012	Sounds good. This stuff might be no-brainer for you, but I figure it can't hurt. Few tips/bits of advice if you care for them: On reassembly, before fully re-clamping the magnets, you may want to make sure the perforations match between front and back. You can easily see this by holding the drivers up to a light source. Also, just inside the metal clamp there's a little piece of plastic film that runs around perpendicular to the diaphragm which keeps everything from shorting out. You might want to devise a plan in order to not deform/destroy that little insulator piece when reinserting everything. You could bend the metal clamp piece a bit further to give yourself a little bit more working room, and/or you could use some Scotch tape to form a guide for the magnet to slip inside of. Best of luck.