OPen baffle mounting and decoupling advice - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Planars & Exotics
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Gallery Wiki Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Planars & Exotics ESL's, planars, and alternative technologies

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 7th May 2009, 06:29 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Default OPen baffle mounting and decoupling advice

I have previously benefitted from advice in this forum. Thank you! However, I have two more questions prior to finishing what will be a one of a kind build, sure to cause a reaction.

I have two issues: driver mounting and decoupling methods.

In an attempt not to reveal too much, I might have an issue mounting the driver. I cannot simply screw into the material for fear that the material might break, due to there being such a minimal amount of space between the driver cutout and the mounting holes. Magnet mounting is absolutely out of the question considering that the magnet is absolutely gigantic. I cannot add more mass to the rear of the driver. I once saw a person use rope to mount the driver to the baffle. Does anybody have atypical suggestions.

Also, what are some decoupling methods.
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th May 2009, 06:52 AM   #2
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
Any pictures of the driver?
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th May 2009, 07:35 AM   #3
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
EJ Jordan JX92S
Attached Images
File Type: jpg jx92s_smallpic.jpg (30.1 KB, 462 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 20th May 2009, 01:30 AM   #4
diyAudio Member
Andersonix's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Silicon Valley, California
Can you clamp it with screws through flanges (rings) on front and back of baffle? Flanges could both have through holes or one could have threaded holes, in-line with the driver mounting holes or outside the outer edge of basket. Or just one flange on the rear with woofer mounted from front...
  Reply With Quote
Old 11th June 2009, 09:59 AM   #5
THWO is offline THWO  Germany
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Hi Irishpatrick33,

how about building sort of a clamp around the rear part of the magnet, holding the entire unit and pressing it against the baffle? It should be positioned well behind the back side of the membrane to still let the reverse air escape freely.

Construction could be two halfs of a ring being screwed together and creating the needed pressure on the magnet to hold it firmly enough. This clamp could then be held by a frame being connected to the back of the baffle.

Other Idea might be to use a metal band instead of the two wooden ring halfes being wound around the magnet.

Decoupling would then be achieved by having some foam layer between the holding construction and magnet as well as between mounting front of the driver and rear of the baffle.

Just raw ithoughts - may be it can give you some idea of developing the ideas further...

Of course I am very curious now regarding your ultimate "top secret state of the art project"...

Let us know how you finally did / will do it!

  Reply With Quote
Old 11th June 2009, 12:39 PM   #6
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: atlanta
Why not just glue it in place? I have used silicone adhesives in the past for this very purpose and this does allow you to remove the drivers later should it be necessary to do so. I have used these Jordans in the past, and they are not too heavy for this method.
  Reply With Quote
Old 17th June 2009, 11:25 PM   #7
THWO is offline THWO  Germany
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Another idea that should work:

You could support the holes for the screws by adding small but sufficient pieces of wood on the back side of the baffle, a bit closer in. The hole in the baffle front may be widened enough not to break when the screws passes through, but the support pieces (not MDF) should hold the pressure.

Firstly, I thought of adding another ring with narrower diameter but then figured that this would prevent a free air flow from the back side of the driverīs membrane. So I mentally cut off all wood from this virtual ring being not needed for supporting the screws and came to said little wooden bricks.

If these "bricks" are a little bit longer and will be arranged with its longer part in direction of virtual spokes around the mounting hole, like romain numbers on a clock, it can (although being glued onto the board) even be fixed itself firmly by an own screw. Then the "bricks" should be stable enogh to withstand any pulling pressure when tightening the driverīs screws.

  Reply With Quote


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Needing advice for Open Baffle Tannoy Sylver300B Multi-Way 17 20th November 2007 04:54 PM
Murphy baffle radios [ open baffle ] keithpeter Full Range 10 11th September 2007 07:59 PM
what effect does baffle have on open-baffle system? kappa546 Multi-Way 6 24th January 2006 10:21 PM
Australians- what solid timbers for baffle? (open baffle loudspeaker) tktran Multi-Way 13 29th November 2004 11:09 PM
Mounting loudspeaker drivers into cabinets (Decoupling) Puggie Multi-Way 4 27th October 2004 03:04 PM

New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 05:22 AM.

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright Đ1999-2017 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2