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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Boston, MA USA
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Well, the subject pretty much says it all. Is there anyone here making, or capable of making, Apogee bass panels?
I have a pair of Caliper Signatures that will need replacement panels eventually and would prefer a more cost effective route than currently available. Please do not refer to the fellow in Australia, as that is not a cost effective route - he requires installation by his installers and does not supply only the panels. Alternatively, would anyone know of a source for kapton/aluminum sheets? Time, and perhaps skills, would probably prohibit me from fabbing these from scratch but I may tackle the rest of the job (cutting and crimping) if compatible sheets can be had. Any thoughts appreciated. -Art |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Toronto, Canada
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Hi
You might try http://www.lamartcorp.com/ I think these are the people who made the original aluminum /kapton laminate for Apogee. Andrew |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Beograd
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Boston, MA USA
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As I noted: "Please do not refer to the fellow in Australia, as that is not a cost effective one."
I do know the original suppliers: Sheldahl and Max Levy. I just haven't had the time to investigate further. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: SiliconValley
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ANOTHER OPTION
1) Sell the Calipers while they still work well 2) DIY build a wide range ribbon, or a midrange and tweeter ribbon. NdFeB magnets and a few hours with FEMM simulations will give higher efficiency and superior sound than your Calipers. 3) Use a line array array of 10" to 15" woofers for bass. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Boston, MA USA
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Well, without starting an uproar, I prefer the "Apogee sound" - even from the bass panel. My box days are over, except perhaps for a sub. I plan on improving on that sound by bi-amping with an active x-over.
I don't want to reengineer the speaker, just replace the bass panel in a more cost effective way than what's readily available. I know I can DIY an improved midrange/tweeter - but that's a lower cost item anyways so not as worrisome. I'm not concerned about efficiency - I have plenty of power to drive these plus they're not a difficult load by any means. I now have Henry's H20 S250 but have also used a CJ 11A with great results. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Beograd
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Hi,
http://www.dahlbergaudiodesign.se/engelska/eng.htm As I remember, someone from Apogee forum mentioned that Dahlberg could make some replacement ribbons for Stage. Maybe you could contact them. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Boston, MA USA
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Yes, I'm aware of Dahlberg. He makes MRT ribbons. One of the Apogee User Group members purchased a pair and is waiting to install them.
That member also told me Dahlberg is working on bass panels but it's a long ways off. At this point, if I can track down the material I can always pull out my panel and copy it. That, of course, destroys my panel (it's siliconed down!) but it's worth it to reproduce perhaps a better one. If anyone's up to the task I may be willing to start ripping it out! |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Finland
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Have you thought about how to make the corrugation on the possible new woofer panels? Need quite wide corrugating wheels to do it the Apogee way..
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Boston, MA USA
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Yes, I can find rollers that large with gears and assemble a corrugator. Whether I can find the same profile Apogee used I don't know - I don't consider that essential. If I need to cut my own I have access to a machine shop.
Alternatively, one Apogee user has told me he may be building his own panels - flat panels. I'm waiting to hear the reasoning behind that. If resonance control was the issue with corrugations, I have also thought about gluing a butyl (or similar) surround to the panel - along the vertical sides which are clamped. The Apogee solution is to silicone the panel onto the frame and use foam, below and above the panel on the inner side of the vertical frame pieces. |
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