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-   -   ESL Diaphragm Coating - HELP (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planars-exotics/119237-esl-diaphragm-coating-help.html)

GlidingDutchman 11th March 2008 03:25 PM

ESL Diaphragm Coating - HELP
 
Hi there,

What concoction would you recommend coating a mylar diaphragm with in an electrostatic loudspeaker? :confused:

GD

SY 11th March 2008 03:49 PM

Do some forum searching. We've covered this (ouch, bad pun) quite a few times.

My own answer is always the same- surface treat the Mylar so that the coating becomes less critical.

Calvin 12th March 2008 01:58 PM

Hi,

which treatment could you suggest, SY? A plasma-treatment is hardly practical for DIY and all the samples I sent to companies doing plasma treatment, came back wrinkled as a crunchy nut and useless.
They all declared, that less than 12mm thickness could not be treated that way because of too much heat generated in the process.
So, do You know practicable alternatives?

jauu
Calvin

GlidingDutchman 12th March 2008 02:23 PM

Seems that the ink applied with an airbrush will be most practical... sacrificing film transparancy...

GD

SY 12th March 2008 02:53 PM

Calvin, I used a hand-held Tesla coil with a coat-hanger electrode. Got the surface energy up above 45 dyne.

PixelPlay 12th March 2008 09:57 PM

Hi,
use this er audio
It dries clear and is easy to apply. I use it on a pair of eraudio acorns (see above link) and it has performed flawlessly.
Cheers
Greg

ak_47_boy 13th March 2008 04:57 AM

Graphite seams to work good for me, except it takes a looong time to apply. I worry about sprays coatings adding weight or chemicals effecting the mylar.

PixelPlay 13th March 2008 05:09 AM

Using a coating that has been developed for ESL's over many years is the way to go. Apply the coating, let it dry and you are done. Most other methods are time consuming and very difficuilt to obtain an even resistance. The coating from my earlier post dries clear and is very thin. You are going to have spent a considerable amount of time with tensioning and the high voltage supply, why add to the complexity and possibilities of running into complications. Apply once and forget about it.

Cheers
Greg

moray james 13th March 2008 07:26 PM

take the good advice...
 
Greg,s suggestion is the way to go. There are also other members here that sell EC coatings designed to do this job and they don't cost all that much. If you want to play around as Sy said you can search and find a lot of well discussed ideas here. If you want to try something new I would suggest you get some hi tech super shine top coat liquid at the automotive store. That stuff is designed to stick (to death) on ultra smooth plastic surfaces (your cars paint). If you don't get enough conductivity you can always dope it with some chemical from a dryer sheet soaked in any old aromatic hydrocarbon. Then if it does not work just buy something. For low tech I still think that PVA adhesive (white glue) diluted one part adhesive to five parts water doped with some dryer sheet chemical (soak it in water) (I can't remember the name of the chemical right now) and add it to the diluted glue. There you go it sticks and it works and it should be ok in dry climates though that is not likely a concern for you. Or you could buy some EC coating. If you decide to play let me know I like playing because it's more interesting. Inks, antistatics, car waxes, coatings for floors cars etc... Have fun and enjoy what ever way you go

GlidingDutchman 14th March 2008 10:53 AM

Thanx for the ER audio link guys!! Looks like the ticket!

GD


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