ESL Diaphragm coating

[tyu]

So you say

I'm thinking you could leave the original foam tape in-place and just apply a thin layer of contact adhesive to the cut-thru surfaces to stick them back together. Good luck with it!


Sound right.....but ....i never glue my panels back ...the ML Speakers make it eze for this the rales hold the panels ...I use tape on the left an right sides were u cant see it...4 peaces pr side....
1. You can open an clen agin..
2. ML side rales hold the panels togather..
3. If you do glue if you never need to open again...50% or higher you well rip the mylar...you may say never need to open again..never say never..
I have done 12 of this type of panels an this setup works great....an after you hear what a diff it makes in SPL output..
.I clean my panels about every 6-8weeks... from my standpoint NO ESL panels have to be glued togather thay all well need cleaning if you wont full output...An I Do..
Once these ML panel have the new bias feeds an new coting ...eze 6db more output....goodluck

[AVWERK]

Tyu
Is there any change in frequency response after the rebulid or just a total linear boost in output?

Regards
David

[tyu]

Total linear boost in output?..
.An the topend is to die for...fill the room with sweet sound...side to side...top to bottem...
An can run the Prodigy with a tube amps...
Real hard for me too diy a panel....goodluck

[AndreaT]

Hi Charlie, David and Tyu,

I am going to do it and I will full document the pre- and post-process ES panel performance.

I hope to complete the job in 2-3 weeks (I have to look for and by the material needed).
Then I will post pictures and graphs.

Stay tuned.
Regards, Andrea

[esl 63]

AndreaT... Was up? Hows goin?

[AndreaT]

Hi ESL63, just still waiting to have the right time to do that.
I promised, and I confirm, I will inform you all once did the job, whatever it will be, better or worse.
//Andrea

[Legis]

Originally Posted by Legis

Licron Crystal doesn't appear to be completely humidity and temperature independant. I lost ~3dB of sensitivy when the temp of the room dropped from 28deg to 22deg, and humidity dropped from 60% to 45% (I left the window open for the night. Also the neon lamp blinks now much slower.

Little update to this matter. The output and the feel of dynamics have been gradually going sligtly downwards during the ~three months I have had the licron coating. Last month something has bothered me, kind of feeling that the sound is losing it's strenght and torgue, transients do not snap like they used to and the sound is slightly uninvolving. The neon lamp blinkin speed has declined from once per 2 seconds to once per 30 seconds during this time. Also the initial charge rush blinking burst is not occuring anymore at the start up.

Right after I added ER audio's coating over the licron, all the things went back to quite normal. The neon lamp blinking speed increased to once per 7 seconds, there is clear initial fast blinking and charge rush to the membrane, output and dynamics are greater, the sound is more aggressive and involving again etc. It seems clear to me that Licron's rising resistance is the cause, and it went back to more optimal region with ER audio's coating.

Maybe the application style with sponge/cloth piece is causing this? People spraying on the Licron have not experience this to my knowledge.

I was thinking to counteract this this by adding graphite to the licron. I don't mind "lower than optimal" surface resistance as long as it's over 10^6. Any ideas how much should I add graphite to get 10^6-10^8 resistance? Or would it be better to first rub the graphite to the membrane and then seal it in there with a layer of Licron/ER audio coating?

[geraldfryjr]

I think that if you put the graphite on first it may reduce the Crystal's ability to bond to the mylar.

I typically use two coats of the stuff or one good heavy coat as it cures so thin.
I think one of the first times I had tried it, it had done the same thing to one of my diagphrams.

The reason that I had to swab it up was becuase it started to bead and separate a little bit.
So since then I give them a pretty good first coat and a quick lite one If I felt the need for it.
And haven't had a problem since.
I have done about 8 small diaphragms using Crystal so far.
I have had to replace a few do too holes burned in them.

My last panel ran flawlessly even after two years of no use....until I burned it up.

I think that it is pretty clear as is, but diluting it to make it more clear may reduce it's performance this is something that many including myself would like to experiment with.

To add graphite to it you would need an extremely super super fine grade I would think as it cures on the order of just a few microns of thickness.
Thinning it more may be borderline of whether or not it will work at all.

It would be interesting to find out though as I have had the same thoughts myself only the risk of having a lower resistance bothers me some.

I have had a cracking problem with the Licron regular stuff before but it is a much more brittle product (as well as thicker) when it cures but it is very durable as well.

Here is a link to some pictures of a 9 year old diaphragm using Licron on this very same subject.

What coating material do you use for your ESL?

jer )

[chinsettawong]

My ESL with staticide 6300 performs well after over 2 years of on and off usage. It's water base. I use a sponge to apply it to the diaphragm.

Has anybody any experience with using Elvamide?

Wachara

[geraldfryjr]

I was going to get a big bag of Elvamide back in 2003 for like $10 or $20.
But I never did because I discovered Licron at the time.

I would have to do some searching to find a vender again but I found them through a Dupount engineer that I was in contact with back then.

From what I have read is that dissolving some nylon(66) in Phenol is nearly (if not) the same thing.

I have read that some have even used nylon fishing line but I don't remember which type it was.

jer