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Old 16th August 2012, 03:32 PM   #621
AndreaT is offline AndreaT  Italy
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Location: Rio Saliceto (RE), Italy
Hi Jonas,

I already googled ... let me say all the day, but no useful info found from Google search engine.

I looked for "Opening Martin Logan panel", "taking apart martin logna panel", electro static panel dismount" and also "ES panel dismount".
But nothing of interest I get out.

Anyway, I will keep note of new Mylar available from you.
Many thanks
Regards, Andrea
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Old 16th August 2012, 06:00 PM   #622
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Ok!

Try this one, MartinLoganOwners forum: Renovating my Sequel 2 panels...part 1
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Old 17th August 2012, 09:19 AM   #623
AndreaT is offline AndreaT  Italy
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Hi Jonas, thanks a lot!!!!
You gave me the right link I was looking for ! (:->)

Now I have the instruction on how to disassemble the panels.

By the way, regarding the Mylar you can provide, is it ITO sputtered as the original Martin Logan?

Have you any detail you can share with me to better let me understand the pros and cons of replacing the current film with your new?

Thanks and regards,
Andrea
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Old 18th August 2012, 08:08 AM   #624
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it's the sputtered orignal one.

If the original film is in good shape, without pinholes and wrinkles,
try to keep it.

Mounting a new film isnt easy without the apparatus shown here:

Martin-Logan repair on stretching and lifting jig. Showing glueing and stretching procedure. - YouTube
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Old 18th August 2012, 01:21 PM   #625
AndreaT is offline AndreaT  Italy
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Default Is it possible to recoat the mylar without removing the stator?

Hello Friends,

I realized that the most complex step is the removal of the front stator (at least that one should be taken apart).

Because I highly fearing to damage my "still perfect" mylar film, and because my ES panels are still someway working, I would try first to spray some ESD conductive coating fluid through the front stator grid.

What I am supposing is that, even if not layered uniformy on the mylar, at least the 70% of the mylar surface would get it and increase its local conductivity.
So, my final expected result should be to get a sub-optimal but better then the current coated surface.

Of course, I am also planning to promptly remove the ESD coating sprayed onto the front start grid, and to put some protective tape strips onto the spacers bands, so that (statistically speaking) the ESD coating sprayed through the stator grid should not affect that critical areas.

Anybody did it before?
Anydody would give me his/her opinion and foreseeneable issues?

Many thanks and kind regards,
Andrea.
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Old 18th August 2012, 02:19 PM   #626
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreaT View Post
Hello Friends,

I realized that the most complex step is the removal of the front stator (at least that one should be taken apart).

Because I highly fearing to damage my "still perfect" mylar film, and because my ES panels are still someway working, I would try first to spray some ESD conductive coating fluid through the front stator grid.

What I am supposing is that, even if not layered uniformy on the mylar, at least the 70% of the mylar surface would get it and increase its local conductivity.
So, my final expected result should be to get a sub-optimal but better then the current coated surface.

Of course, I am also planning to promptly remove the ESD coating sprayed onto the front start grid, and to put some protective tape strips onto the spacers bands, so that (statistically speaking) the ESD coating sprayed through the stator grid should not affect that critical areas.

Anybody did it before?
Anydody would give me his/her opinion and foreseeneable issues?

Many thanks and kind regards,
Andrea.
Sounds risky to me. I'm no expert but it seems to me that everywhere that spray lands becomes conductive, and spraying thru the stator would likely coat the edges of the spacers too; creating shorting paths from diaphragm to stator.

Has anyone every tried this??
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Old 18th August 2012, 04:00 PM   #627
tyu is offline tyu  United States
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I have put Dish soap on the mylar though panels with a spra bottel... an then wash the panels an leve some soap on the panels an let dry...
I find [most] of the low out panels... it the bias feed....
Dust an crud has piled up on the right side where the Mylar an The one copper bias feed is...goodluck
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Old 18th August 2012, 07:54 PM   #628
AVWERK is offline AVWERK  United States
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Andrea
Since you cannot touch and clean the surface before spraying, this would be a mistake even if your not expecting 100% results.
If now you expect poor results and will eventually pull it apart to do it right, then you don,t have much to loose since you can correct your theory

Regards
David
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Old 19th August 2012, 01:43 PM   #629
AndreaT is offline AndreaT  Italy
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Hello Avwerk, Tyu and CharlieM,

you definitively convinced me that I have to separete the panels... hoping to not damage the films.

Thanks a lot for you kind suppot.
Regards, Andrea
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Old 19th August 2012, 03:46 PM   #630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndreaT View Post
Hello Avwerk, Tyu and CharlieM,

you definitively convinced me that I have to separete the panels... hoping to not damage the films.

Thanks a lot for you kind suppot.
Regards, Andrea
Assuming you can get the sators apart without damaging the diaphragms, which looks do-able from the previous link and pics by merely cutting thru the foam tape with an exacto-knife-- I think all you need to do then is carefully clean the diaphragm with alchohol, mask off the periphery edges, and apply 1 wet coat of Licron Crystal. Let it dry for about 4 hours or so and reassemble the panel. I'm thinking you could leave the original foam tape in-place and just apply a thin layer of contact adhesive to the cut-thru surfaces to stick them back together. Good luck with it!
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