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Old 18th January 2010, 06:20 AM   #271
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just curious what is pva glue?
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Old 18th January 2010, 09:03 AM   #272
Calvin is offline Calvin  Germany
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Hi,

The glue formula is indeed that simple. As ´water´ use the pure deionized stuff from the autromotive supply not water from the hose.
PVA-Glue is the typical household one-glues-all glue. The water-based TESA brand works absolutely fine. But this has been described extensively in other threads. search for glue-formula.

jauu
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Old 18th January 2010, 01:26 PM   #273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Liquisonic View Post
Hi Wach, is it really that simple? Or am I missing something?
Durability over time comes to mind, Please elaborate my friend,

Thank you, Steve

Hi Linquisonic,

Like Calvin has pointed out, it really is that simple. I have been using this formula for almost half a year. And I have been very happy with it. In the beginning, I mix the glue solution with a little bit of graphite powder. It also worked well.

I'm sure you can get PVA glue and black ink anywhere in the world. Therefore this formula is virtually applicable anywhere. Try it and you will love it.

I will try some other glues in the future. Unfortunately, I can't get TESA brand glue here.

Wachara C.
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Old 18th January 2010, 01:39 PM   #274
bentl is offline bentl  Norway
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Hi, Is there any difference in using alcohol instead for water?

I belive Casco RX glue should be a perfect candidate as it is a clear PVA glue.

Found some other fun uses for PVA glue in the search process:

Flubber - Naked Scientists Kitchen Science 2009
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Old 18th January 2010, 02:30 PM   #275
Clarkcr is offline Clarkcr  United States
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....and ink is highly conductive, right? This doesn't add excessive mass to the Mylar?
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Old 18th January 2010, 02:52 PM   #276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarkcr View Post
....and ink is highly conductive, right? This doesn't add excessive mass to the Mylar?
Hi Clarkcr,

The black ink is made of carbon. And carbon is conductive. When applying the glue to the diaphragm, you only apply a very, very thin layer onto the diaphragm. I'm not sure how much mass is added to the Mylar. I use a sponge to apply. The sponge will suck up most of the glue into the itself and only leave a very minimal amount of glue on the diaphragm. After the glue is dry, the diaphragm will still be very transparent. If you look at the diaphragm in an angle, you will see the glue. Otherwise, the glue trace is barely noticeable.

Wachara C.
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Old 18th January 2010, 04:30 PM   #277
Clarkcr is offline Clarkcr  United States
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Thanks...but just to clarify, I meant the glue as adding mass...not the carbon.

So, water based glue? Would a thinned contact cement do well with a carbon additive? I would think it would have better adhesion properties. Challenging to shoot with a paint gun.
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Old 18th January 2010, 04:46 PM   #278
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Hi Clarkcr,
why using something improved, durable, simple to handle, easy to get and cheap,
when it can be done more complicated?
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Old 18th January 2010, 07:14 PM   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clarkcr View Post
Thanks...but just to clarify, I meant the glue as adding mass...not the carbon.

So, water based glue? Would a thinned contact cement do well with a carbon additive? I would think it would have better adhesion properties. Challenging to shoot with a paint gun.
1. There is urethane based, carbon doped conductive glue for antistatic flooring. Make your guess on solid content, bearing in mind the fact that polyurethane is a good dielecrtic.
2. Non-polar solvents does not have an ability to suspend small particles. I am NOT giving any kind of suggestions on conductive doping - but there is a reason behind aquadag being aqua based.
You can check for yourself: put a drop of carbon ink into alcohol or acetone.
To frank ziel: thumbs up!

Last edited by alexberg; 18th January 2010 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 18th January 2010, 07:36 PM   #280
Clarkcr is offline Clarkcr  United States
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No, just postulating. Doping with polyvinyl acetate glue and carbon black sounds pretty easy. I don't want to consider disolving nylon or Elvamide in phenol. That doesn't sound fun.

At the end of the day (or years), it's adhesion that I'm concerned about. SY had some good advice on this.

Only one side needs to be doped, am I right? What would be the point of two sided doping?
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