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Old 24th May 2007, 07:21 AM   #61
Calvin is offline Calvin  Germany
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Location: close to Basel
Hi,

maybe I´m too much perfectionist, but I wouldn´t recommend simple magnet wire for high class stators.
First the insulation values are a bit low to my taste (insulation values drop with increasing frequency) and
secondly the impulse like signal forms let the insulation age quicker than the datasheets imply (they use LF sinusodial test signals and not music or pulses)
So I would look for a at least double coated magnet wire

jauuu
Calvin
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Old 24th May 2007, 05:34 PM   #62
gvy is offline gvy  Belgium
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Hi Calvin,

I never used magnet wire, so I don't recommend it eather.

But wire wrap wire, is Kynar insulated (in many colours ) and is OK, even for high class stators
example of spec: http://www.jonard.com/jonard-ecommer...SWireSpecs.pdf

Also PVC insulated wires are OK to use example H05V (rated for 500V, but much higher breakdown tension.

With these 2 type of wires I have build stators that play safe and for +5 Years without problems now.

Geert
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Old 25th May 2007, 08:25 AM   #63
Calvin is offline Calvin  Germany
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Hi,

I had a look at Kynar-Wires too. I like the silver plating of the wire ;-)
Kynar (PVDF) though is similar to Teflon, so it might be problematic when it comes too fixing/glueing the wires and it has very high resistance values and as rather low epsilon-value, which is disadvantageous with regard to efficiency and overload recovery time.
On the good side there are low and quite constant values (over frequency and time) for dielectic constant and -losses.
Teflon ages through ozone....how about Kynar?? Haven´t found infos about that point.
A 30AWG silver clad copper wire with Kynar 460 insulation has a high flashover treshold (0.003" is tested to 2kV ACrms).

jauu
Calvin
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Old 25th May 2007, 10:26 PM   #64
gvy is offline gvy  Belgium
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Concerning the fixing of the wires. No problem here

I have always used TEC7 to fix the wires (wire wrap and PVC types) to the varnished hardwood crossbars, or painted MDF
I can say, it's a good fix, because never I have had wires that came loose in years.
The TEC7 is some kind of montage kit.
It looks a bit like silicone (but it isn't) and it hardens out very strong, but it stays a bit flexible, like some kind of hard rubber.

The wires lay flat on the crossbars and I go over them with te kitpistol.
After that I wipe the TEC7 flat between the wires with one finger, so that no substance sticks out above the wires.
So the kit kind a fixes the wires to each other and to the crossbars.
This works fine.

On this foto, you can see the inside of a statorhalf.
So of course once the mylar is placed and the two statorhalves are fixed together, you don't see the glue anymore

Click the image to open in full size.

and yes, you can have it in black to, as you can see on the next picture.

Click the image to open in full size.
Geert
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Old 26th May 2007, 01:38 AM   #65
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Hi,

Do you have any rules for spacing distance of the wood bar? mechanical or electrically?

Cheer
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Old 26th May 2007, 04:29 PM   #66
gvy is offline gvy  Belgium
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Quote:
Originally posted by Audio_idiot
Hi,

Do you have any rules for spacing distance of the wood bar? mechanical or electrically?

Cheer
No, or may be yes...

My first esl (the blue ones on one of the pictures) had a distance of 12cm.
I used a PVC insulated wire of about 2mm thick and I didnt use the above described "bow" method to tension the wires on the stator. (because I didnt know it in that time)
That distance ( 12cm) was too big, so afterwards I doubled the amount of wood bars .

Later on I have always used a distance around 8cm, an that worked well.
So I always keep the things that work OK, thats all.


Geert
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Old 28th May 2007, 12:58 AM   #67
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Hi,

Does the 1:70 ratio apply here?


Thank gvy for sharing

Cheers
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Old 31st May 2007, 04:35 PM   #68
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Hi.

Gvy. Your ESLs are very beautyful and inspiring work.

I usually rely on www.babelfish.altavista.com and I also did it this time, when it comes to reading dutch.
Copy'n paste the link and translate the webpage from dutch to english.
Allthough it's not perfect, it can be read and understood.

I also plan to build ESL, like many others.
For the sub, I have complex plan of building a circular T-line, folded inside itself, making it less than 2' high and around 2' in diameter.

I guess it needs a lot of calculating, trial'n errors, constructing and measurements before it actually can come to life.

Anyway. I would just point out the fancy stuff of translation, so others could stand the chance against the dutch language

Regards
Brian Hougaard Baldersbaek
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Old 31st May 2007, 11:53 PM   #69
gvy is offline gvy  Belgium
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Hi Brian,

Thanks for the compliments on my ESL's.

I am happy to hear that posting the link here can help other people.
I am also really convinced that making a wire stator ESL is not all that difficult .

Geert
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Old 6th July 2007, 08:52 AM   #70
jnb is offline jnb  Australia
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Gvy, I am very impressed with your work. Do you have a web page? I have seen your work on Audiocircuit.com but the pages won't display properly for me.
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