pologies for posting on this topic, I'm sure it has been done to death but the way I like to work is to ask specific questions rather than trawl through articles that may or may not answer my questions. Obviously links to with relevant information are most appreciated.
Due to my Aerius I speakers being contaminated by pigeon crap, not a lot but I fear the dirt may be bridging the mylar and metal grille which may damage them, I am about to embark on washing them followed by recoating - they have lost about 2 KHz compared to other speakers.
Last time I washed them, the insulator strips along the edges were starting to come apart, I reckon this time I may be able to separate the front grille. I know this can be done by carefully cutting through the strips.
Let's assume I have done that, do I need to remove the old coating, if so, what is the best method?
To recoat, I have seen Licron Crystal ESD spray recommended (I have seen it available in a spray can). Is this good to use or is there something better?
Regarding applying the coating, do I spray over the entire front panel or are there areas that should not be sprayed? In the latter case, how best to mask of those areas, I do not want to use masking tape if there is risk of ripping the mylar. Also is the thickness and evenness critical, I have not used this before but I am guessing once the entire surface is shiny and wet, then that should be enough. Is there a way to tell/test which areas are not covered or covered with too much coating?
If I cannot stick together the front grille, what is the specification of the self adhesive strip (thickness, width) and where can I buy it?
Any other info, appreciated.
Due to my Aerius I speakers being contaminated by pigeon crap, not a lot but I fear the dirt may be bridging the mylar and metal grille which may damage them, I am about to embark on washing them followed by recoating - they have lost about 2 KHz compared to other speakers.
Last time I washed them, the insulator strips along the edges were starting to come apart, I reckon this time I may be able to separate the front grille. I know this can be done by carefully cutting through the strips.
Let's assume I have done that, do I need to remove the old coating, if so, what is the best method?
To recoat, I have seen Licron Crystal ESD spray recommended (I have seen it available in a spray can). Is this good to use or is there something better?
Regarding applying the coating, do I spray over the entire front panel or are there areas that should not be sprayed? In the latter case, how best to mask of those areas, I do not want to use masking tape if there is risk of ripping the mylar. Also is the thickness and evenness critical, I have not used this before but I am guessing once the entire surface is shiny and wet, then that should be enough. Is there a way to tell/test which areas are not covered or covered with too much coating?
If I cannot stick together the front grille, what is the specification of the self adhesive strip (thickness, width) and where can I buy it?
Any other info, appreciated.
Since you've already "washed" your panels I won't bother warning you not to. Yes; I know the ML Owners Forum recommends it, and it would clean away imbedded dust, but I think exposing the bias supply contact to water makes it prone to corrosion-- especially on the models that use a copper foil contact strip. I recommend vacuum cleaning panels.
Licron Crystal ESD is an excellent choice for re-coating the diaphragm. I use it exclusively. It's not nearly as clear as what ML uses but its clear enough-- it you apply it on a rainy humid day it will blush and dry cloudy but that will not affect it's performance.
I recommend to mask off the outer 1/4" of the panel periphery. And if the fronts spars are on the diaphragm, also mask those off, including the sides of the spars, before spraying the diaphragm. Some ML models use a single point of contact for the bias supply and some use a full height copper foil contact strip. If the spars are in place, you must make them off-- but then if there isn't a full height contact strip for the bias supply, you will need to add one-- to be sure that all of the diaphragm sections have a conduction path to the bias supply.
One coat "just wet" is sufficient. Licron Crystal is 98% volatiles so even if you apply it a bit wetter than necessary, it won't leave more than a couple of microns thickness when it dries. The only time I've heard of anyone having problems with Licron Crystal is when they attempt to dilute it down and rub it on (to "reduce the added mass") rather than just spraying on a single coat as recommended.
I only work on DIY panels and I've never attempted to remove the front stator on a ML panel. That may be difficult to do without damaging the diaphragm. I'm not sure the front spars are bonded to the front stator at all (better if they weren't). It may be easy to do, but I can't say.
I too recommend posting a query on the ML Forum... I'm sure someone there has recoated ML panels.
Last edited:
Hi 02GF74
For re-coating I recommend buying the brush on liquid from ER Audio, it's a brush on
type that works very well. I use this to repair my Odyssey panels. There's a fellow member here TYU whose very well verse in repair & it was with his guidance that I manage to re-coat my panels without damaging the Mylar. Aerius I'm not too sure but Odyssey & Prodigy panels are a pain to remove cause the spars are also stuck to the front stators. For me I use turpentine & drip brush onto the double side tape to soften the glue. If you view from the side of the panels, you see that there is strip of plastic that runs along the whole panel from top to bottom. This plastic is the same as what's use as spars. You apply the turpentine on the top part of the plastic strip just behind the front stator. To split the stator, I use a chisel to slowly prey the front stator apart with the help of a chopstick or similar to help keep the stator open while you slowly move the chisel along the stator length. Pls be very careful not to push the chisel too far in & that you angle the chisel from the Mylar. As Charlie mentioned, you should take a look over at ML owners. I think there's something on Aerius repair.
Cheers
For re-coating I recommend buying the brush on liquid from ER Audio, it's a brush on
type that works very well. I use this to repair my Odyssey panels. There's a fellow member here TYU whose very well verse in repair & it was with his guidance that I manage to re-coat my panels without damaging the Mylar. Aerius I'm not too sure but Odyssey & Prodigy panels are a pain to remove cause the spars are also stuck to the front stators. For me I use turpentine & drip brush onto the double side tape to soften the glue. If you view from the side of the panels, you see that there is strip of plastic that runs along the whole panel from top to bottom. This plastic is the same as what's use as spars. You apply the turpentine on the top part of the plastic strip just behind the front stator. To split the stator, I use a chisel to slowly prey the front stator apart with the help of a chopstick or similar to help keep the stator open while you slowly move the chisel along the stator length. Pls be very careful not to push the chisel too far in & that you angle the chisel from the Mylar. As Charlie mentioned, you should take a look over at ML owners. I think there's something on Aerius repair.
Cheers
Hi Calvin
Nice to see you here. Not too sure about older panels
but on my Odyssey, the biase strip that was used was somekind of aluminized carbon coated adhesive tape. This strip degerates & causes the panel to either go softer or just die off. I redid mine with copper strip & I also soldered the wire onto the strip. Unlike ML where wire was only tape down.
Cheers
Nice to see you here. Not too sure about older panels
but on my Odyssey, the biase strip that was used was somekind of aluminized carbon coated adhesive tape. This strip degerates & causes the panel to either go softer or just die off. I redid mine with copper strip & I also soldered the wire onto the strip. Unlike ML where wire was only tape down.
Cheers
I also am interested in repairing my ML Aerius.
O2GM74, did you use Licron?
Did you find a source for the tape, and, more importantly, what thickness did you use between the stator and mylar? Did you replace the mylar, and if so, what thickness and did you find a source in the US?
How were the results?
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.