Hi everyone, I'm new here and I have a question I didn't find in an existing thread.
I'm currently taking apart a set of ES100's with the aim of replacing the Mylar sheets. I have separated the pertinax frames which hold the Mylar. This was glued together with some kind of silicone. I managed to cut away most of this silicone with a very sharp knife, but it seems impossible too clear it completely of the pertinax. There is a high risk of damaging the pertinax with the knife.
My plan is to use double-sided 3M tape at rebuild for attaching the Mylar and eventually both pertinax frames together.
Is it necessary to remove all of the silicone from the pertinax? I now have pertinax with a more or less even, very thin layer of silicone on it. Does anybody know how to easily remove this silicone or have experience with this on an Audiostatic?
I'm currently taking apart a set of ES100's with the aim of replacing the Mylar sheets. I have separated the pertinax frames which hold the Mylar. This was glued together with some kind of silicone. I managed to cut away most of this silicone with a very sharp knife, but it seems impossible too clear it completely of the pertinax. There is a high risk of damaging the pertinax with the knife.
My plan is to use double-sided 3M tape at rebuild for attaching the Mylar and eventually both pertinax frames together.
Is it necessary to remove all of the silicone from the pertinax? I now have pertinax with a more or less even, very thin layer of silicone on it. Does anybody know how to easily remove this silicone or have experience with this on an Audiostatic?
I did also rebuild a lot of Audiostatics. Just check my projects here:
Electrostatic Speakers Public Group | Facebook
1. What kind of foil do you want to use?
2. Is the electronic part still good? (HV Bias)
3. Are the stators still steady and stable?
Electrostatic Speakers Public Group | Facebook
1. What kind of foil do you want to use?
2. Is the electronic part still good? (HV Bias)
3. Are the stators still steady and stable?
That looks like a handy site Geoneer! I will check it out further. It didn't pop up in my Google searches and I'm not on Facebook.
1. 4.2 micron Mylar with ER coating
2. Yes. I will do replacement of capacitors, resistors etc.
3. Yes and totally straight
Loudspeakers were in original condition but very dirty. Still they played decent with very low volume.
I'm still in the process of cleaning the pertinax frames. I could not find the Gamma bouwmarkt scraper but I'm taking my time cleaning the frames with Bison silicone remover and a metal "razorblade" scraper. I take slow because I want to do it as perfect as can.
1. 4.2 micron Mylar with ER coating
2. Yes. I will do replacement of capacitors, resistors etc.
3. Yes and totally straight
Loudspeakers were in original condition but very dirty. Still they played decent with very low volume.
I'm still in the process of cleaning the pertinax frames. I could not find the Gamma bouwmarkt scraper but I'm taking my time cleaning the frames with Bison silicone remover and a metal "razorblade" scraper. I take slow because I want to do it as perfect as can.
Hoi ik heb net twee paar gedaan ,ik gebruikte HG siliconenkit verwijderaar.
ik zou een kant laten zitten als je met dubbelzijdig tape werkt dan hoef je maar een kant te plakken en is de silicone kant lekker stroef (ik ga er van uit dat je ze dan met schroeven in elkaar gaat zetten) ik gebruik Tesa 4965 super spul.
gr Huib mail adres dvd963sa@hotmail.com
ik zou een kant laten zitten als je met dubbelzijdig tape werkt dan hoef je maar een kant te plakken en is de silicone kant lekker stroef (ik ga er van uit dat je ze dan met schroeven in elkaar gaat zetten) ik gebruik Tesa 4965 super spul.
gr Huib mail adres dvd963sa@hotmail.com
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