I've refurbished two bass panels so far. These had deep red plastic stators with glued on spacers. One had carbon tracking from two rivets to the signal layer and the other had corrosion around rivets and into the dust cover frames. Both now work OK.
I now have a panel with a high voltage leak in one stator. This is white plastic with glued on separators. When I pulled this one apart it had a lot of corrosion and quite a bit of the aluminium strips were gone completely. Somebody has done some repairs to the panel but I don't think they opened it up. Initially the EHT reading was below 1kv and I could measure the EHT to signal resistance in the stator as around 100Mohm, way too low.
I've cleaned the panel thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol and inspected it minutely for possible leakage paths. Using a high voltage probe the 6kv supply reads as 4.5kv on the good stator (which is the reading I get with all working panels), while the leaky stator reads 3.9kv. Using a neon indicator the leaky stator blinks about every 3 seconds while the good stator takes minutes between blinks.
Despite many attempts I cannot isolate the leakage path. Any suggestions on how to do this.
I now have a panel with a high voltage leak in one stator. This is white plastic with glued on separators. When I pulled this one apart it had a lot of corrosion and quite a bit of the aluminium strips were gone completely. Somebody has done some repairs to the panel but I don't think they opened it up. Initially the EHT reading was below 1kv and I could measure the EHT to signal resistance in the stator as around 100Mohm, way too low.
I've cleaned the panel thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol and inspected it minutely for possible leakage paths. Using a high voltage probe the 6kv supply reads as 4.5kv on the good stator (which is the reading I get with all working panels), while the leaky stator reads 3.9kv. Using a neon indicator the leaky stator blinks about every 3 seconds while the good stator takes minutes between blinks.
Despite many attempts I cannot isolate the leakage path. Any suggestions on how to do this.
I don't know your speakers but maybe some maintenance would help even if the fault isn't identified. I give my Dayton-Wright cells a treatment with a hair dryer (medium heat, slow but never-stopping motion around the cells) and a vacuuming on both sides every year or so. That may dry the coating and tighten the membrane but I have no way to know for sure if it really helps in any way besides psychological.
I can't say if that is healthy or beneficial for your Quads, so I'd wait for others to post.
B.
I can't say if that is healthy or beneficial for your Quads, so I'd wait for others to post.
B.
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