I've just acquired a set of Magnepan 1.4.
One speaker sounded like it delaminated and the other sounded normal. However after removing the cover (and putting it in the laundry, as they where yellow) I noticed that the delaminated one was actually in a good state (yes need to stick the wires again.
But the other speaker had a long tear in the membrane. Now, normally you would have it be revised. However as i'm low on funds and i'm up for a little project, i wanted to fix it myself.
I'm however finding myself unable to find alot of information on how to fix this.
What I could find is:
1. The tear can be fixed with Mylar packing tape
2. Glue to be used is 3M glue spray 77
3. DAP Weldwood to be used for fixing the wires to the membrane
4. Alternative to 3, a light weight cloth can be attached on top of all the wires and spray glued to the mylar. This will prevent the wires from delaminating at all
A couple of questions I have:
1. How thick is the mylar used for the magnepan (1.4 ideally). I want to source a similar thickness of mylar. Also where would i be able to get this?
2. What alternative can i use for DAP Weldwood? I'm unable to get this. How much will I need for a panel? Are we talking about an ounce, a pint or a quart?
3. Is the option discussed in point 4 advisable? It looks like a good solution and it would also strengthen the Mylar a bit. But if it will destroy the sound I don't want to go that route.
I'm located in Europe, so anything that can be gotten from Amazon.de or amazon.co.uk or ebay would be great!
One speaker sounded like it delaminated and the other sounded normal. However after removing the cover (and putting it in the laundry, as they where yellow) I noticed that the delaminated one was actually in a good state (yes need to stick the wires again.
But the other speaker had a long tear in the membrane. Now, normally you would have it be revised. However as i'm low on funds and i'm up for a little project, i wanted to fix it myself.
I'm however finding myself unable to find alot of information on how to fix this.
What I could find is:
1. The tear can be fixed with Mylar packing tape
2. Glue to be used is 3M glue spray 77
3. DAP Weldwood to be used for fixing the wires to the membrane
4. Alternative to 3, a light weight cloth can be attached on top of all the wires and spray glued to the mylar. This will prevent the wires from delaminating at all
A couple of questions I have:
1. How thick is the mylar used for the magnepan (1.4 ideally). I want to source a similar thickness of mylar. Also where would i be able to get this?
2. What alternative can i use for DAP Weldwood? I'm unable to get this. How much will I need for a panel? Are we talking about an ounce, a pint or a quart?
3. Is the option discussed in point 4 advisable? It looks like a good solution and it would also strengthen the Mylar a bit. But if it will destroy the sound I don't want to go that route.
I'm located in Europe, so anything that can be gotten from Amazon.de or amazon.co.uk or ebay would be great!
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How long a tear?..2"6" 10' near the side in the middle?...where..
Scotch Tape works well, magnepan uses it...if I had to use a wider paking type tape...I put some glue on the mylar first...an cut the width of the tape down...then coat on top of dap,rubber cement,3M glue spray 77,....dap is contack cement...
I seen magnepans send out new speakers...with tape over rips...owers never new...play fine....3-4"
Peter Gunn's Magnepan Voice Coil Repair Saga
Alex's Fix loose wires & rips in Mylar
MUG Tweaks
lot info here...good luck
Scotch Tape works well, magnepan uses it...if I had to use a wider paking type tape...I put some glue on the mylar first...an cut the width of the tape down...then coat on top of dap,rubber cement,3M glue spray 77,....dap is contack cement...
I seen magnepans send out new speakers...with tape over rips...owers never new...play fine....3-4"
Peter Gunn's Magnepan Voice Coil Repair Saga
Alex's Fix loose wires & rips in Mylar
MUG Tweaks
lot info here...good luck
I think the tear is about 40cm in the middle of the panel. The speaker sounds good (I didn't know it was broken untill i saw the patch job, which is awefull).
I've located some 6Micrometer mylar, but probably will use the scotch tape close the hole, then put the mylar ontop.
Should i use the 3m 77 spray (is that strong enough) or is a different glue better (for mylar to mylar glueing)?
I've located some 6Micrometer mylar, but probably will use the scotch tape close the hole, then put the mylar ontop.
Should i use the 3m 77 spray (is that strong enough) or is a different glue better (for mylar to mylar glueing)?
77 works ...just let it dry..10-20 min ..on bouth sides befor putting them to gather...but ...you mite pass on your so called better fix..if it not broke... don't fix it..just saying....most likely it fell over..i gess your saying....I got nothing to lose....the maggys are vary for giveing
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Thanks! Ordered the 3m 90 spray and the 3m fastbond 30nf. Will pick up the 6micrometer mylar and hopefully i'll be able to get this al fixed.
Thanks!
If you need to do a small area, you can thin some of it with lacquer thinner and brush it on both sides that are to be pressed together.
When it becomes tack free to a finger, and no more, press together. But don,t wait around for hours and then expect it stick well.
I wouldn’t,t do big areas this way though..,.
The spray side needs both surfaces equal coverage and the same procedure.
Regards
David
When it becomes tack free to a finger, and no more, press together. But don,t wait around for hours and then expect it stick well.
I wouldn’t,t do big areas this way though..,.
The spray side needs both surfaces equal coverage and the same procedure.
Regards
David
I'm wondering. i'm going to get mylar to cover up the tear. Is it still advisable to use scotch tape as a first layer or should i just use the mylar foil right of the bat?
Also, which scotch tape should i use. I'm not entirely sure which of the tape is mylar.
Thanks
I'll video tape this and try to make a good tutorial out of this, for future generations. Already sourced everything i need (90 spray, 30nf glue and the mylar, acetone) just need to receive it and start working on this.
Also, which scotch tape should i use. I'm not entirely sure which of the tape is mylar.
Thanks
I'll video tape this and try to make a good tutorial out of this, for future generations. Already sourced everything i need (90 spray, 30nf glue and the mylar, acetone) just need to receive it and start working on this.
I rewired a pair of ii years ago. Lay down thin coat of 3m spray let it tack up, lay one row of wires down, and when it's dried to just barely tacky maybe 10-30 mins later, hit with another coat of 3m.
I don't think I used 77 though, I think I tried that but 90 worked better for me wrt wait times and bond strength vs how heavy the coat was (90 held better with less needed to boot.)
Well ventilated area too. That stuff is nasty.
Wish I could find another cheap pair. An intoxicated person took mine out but it was a fun year of so I lived with those. Went high efficiency after that, then back to boxes ehen I moved my system to a small room.
I don't think I used 77 though, I think I tried that but 90 worked better for me wrt wait times and bond strength vs how heavy the coat was (90 held better with less needed to boot.)
Well ventilated area too. That stuff is nasty.
Wish I could find another cheap pair. An intoxicated person took mine out but it was a fun year of so I lived with those. Went high efficiency after that, then back to boxes ehen I moved my system to a small room.
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I'm seeing that one of the main diferences is the use of Ethanol instead of Methanol. Anyone care to chime in on this?
unfortunately i didn't get the scotch weld 30nf... i got scotch weld 30 and i'm having a hard time understanding if it is going to make much of a difference on my project.
Even 3m Netherlands is unable to give me the answer (strange!)
I'm going to source some mylar and close the tear with that. My guess is that if the Hole is completely closes (i.e. the original mylar is together) the tension should be pretty much similar to before the tear.
Ofcourse, I have no illusion that this is not going to be tricky. But i'm not sure if i can put a whole new sheet of mylar on this correctly and I don't have the financial means to sent it back for repairs.... this is costing me $50 all in, so i'm willing to try.
Yep, this would be the major issue. Magnepan has a specific tension for the mylar on every speaker, and it's typically in the 3000-4000 pound range (I've seen the actual specs and the machine they use to tension the diaphragms). Mylar's yield point is over 20,000; Scotch tape has a tensile strength of somewhere around 20-50 pounds! You couldn't maintain factory spec tension with tape.
Any attempt to patch over a rip in the mylar with something cheap like scotch tape will likely cause great variations in the tension over the surface of the diaphragm. It might work for tiny holes where the edges haven't drawn apart; but for something 40cm in length, it will probably introduce some weird variations in the speaker's response because the tension will essentially be 0 at the torn edges.
The tie-downs on the diaphragm are critically dependent on tension and area as well, so if they were applied and the speaker tested at the factory, their ability to damp or spread out the resonant modes would be seriously impaired.
i strongly disagree it is fixable with some tape. resonance is part of the way it works. if it has torn the resonance is dropped. getting it again the way it should seem hard/nearly impossible to me but ok. never seen a magnepan with factory made tears taped of either.. if you mean the tape near the tuning knob it is there to prevent a tear when puncturing the membrane for the knob and preventing it tearing after the knob is installed. just my 2 cents
with a regular stretch jig is is rather easy to achieve the resonance of an smga for instance around 60-70, not sure what the exact resonance is on a panel without knob. with knob it had 2 resonances one at 70 or so and one at 120 or something. it is stated on the paper on the panel what the resonances would be original
with a regular stretch jig is is rather easy to achieve the resonance of an smga for instance around 60-70, not sure what the exact resonance is on a panel without knob. with knob it had 2 resonances one at 70 or so and one at 120 or something. it is stated on the paper on the panel what the resonances would be original
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Only tape I have seen used on there panels mylar was a tear about 1" long..it was about 1"off the side running from top to bottem....not any longer..I was shocket to see that...but Magnepan dose not wast anything I guess...it was tapet for over 20 years..it is still working...
I seen them use wire that came off the bottem of a big spool...what did not pull off straight....thay still used it...in some spots the wires looket like was a 1/4" off the mylar....but they glued it down an it work for years...
But the BIGest Shocker was when i cut the mylar off a old dead pr...i cut a peace of mylar out with the wire an glue...it was about 10"x10" ....it was so stiff an heavy..i would have said there know way to get high frec out of that....but it worket.
these type panels are vary forgiveing...
I seen them use wire that came off the bottem of a big spool...what did not pull off straight....thay still used it...in some spots the wires looket like was a 1/4" off the mylar....but they glued it down an it work for years...
But the BIGest Shocker was when i cut the mylar off a old dead pr...i cut a peace of mylar out with the wire an glue...it was about 10"x10" ....it was so stiff an heavy..i would have said there know way to get high frec out of that....but it worket.
these type panels are vary forgiveing...
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ggetzoff....is most likely as close as the 1.4 are to get...but if you feel there nothing to lose....been there don't that...right
Magnepans....I have had a lot of there speaker...SMGa 8 prs...lot fun good sound for low cost an low up keep....all roll off at about 16-18k..bit thay worket..I still have some here now...there at give a way prices...an there only 3/4" thick..an you can stack 5 pr on the wall an thay take up no room ...10"...hehe
But the only one ever really sound ok were the real ribbon ones... I got the MG2.5r some were here...but the ribbons never last...thay got hot in a day...an then starded twesting...vary low tek......but some love them..an now thay are saling so few...they have some saleing for $30k....but when you can put a pr of speaker togather that the box an shiping cost as much as the hold speaker to build...it a winner...there $600...MMg give 90% of there best speaker...not minny in the Audio bizz today can say that...lot fun...
all just one mans finding...
Magnepans....I have had a lot of there speaker...SMGa 8 prs...lot fun good sound for low cost an low up keep....all roll off at about 16-18k..bit thay worket..I still have some here now...there at give a way prices...an there only 3/4" thick..an you can stack 5 pr on the wall an thay take up no room ...10"...hehe
But the only one ever really sound ok were the real ribbon ones... I got the MG2.5r some were here...but the ribbons never last...thay got hot in a day...an then starded twesting...vary low tek......but some love them..an now thay are saling so few...they have some saleing for $30k....but when you can put a pr of speaker togather that the box an shiping cost as much as the hold speaker to build...it a winner...there $600...MMg give 90% of there best speaker...not minny in the Audio bizz today can say that...lot fun...
all just one mans finding...
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