Hi all,
I do own a complete Audiostatic ES300rs system just as parts. I need to make stators and connect the electronics to them.
Q's:
#1. Does anyone know about the segmentation of the ES300rs?
#2. Does anyone know if a resistance is used between the connector on the electronic-plate and the diagram / foil?
To knows:
- I did restore an ES100 succesfully
- I do own ES200 without resistance between plate and the foil
- My ES200 has no segmentation and play nice.
I do own a complete Audiostatic ES300rs system just as parts. I need to make stators and connect the electronics to them.
Q's:
#1. Does anyone know about the segmentation of the ES300rs?
#2. Does anyone know if a resistance is used between the connector on the electronic-plate and the diagram / foil?
To knows:
- I did restore an ES100 succesfully
- I do own ES200 without resistance between plate and the foil
- My ES200 has no segmentation and play nice.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks MJ Dijkstra!
#Q1: The question is what the resistors needs to be for the segmentation on the ES300?
#Q2: I'm thinking about to use 4 wires for the high frequention region. Just like described here: https://audio-creative.nl/projecten/een-audiostatic-es100-electrostaat-in-de-revisie/9/
#1. Is right. There is a 10Mohm resistor at the back of the print. So this is ok for me now. I did avoid this on my prototype (ES100) and my amp (NAD 2100) did heatup a lot. The sound also from the stator did have a lot of distortion.
#2. Segmentation is a good thing! I did remove the segmentation my prototype (ES100). Now the sweetspot is very small. I will put in the segmentation again and build this up in a nice and proper way.
Further on in Dutch:
Leerpunten: 1. De afstand tussen stator en folie kan kleiner dan 't nu is. Exacte maten weet ik nu nog niet. Zal deze gaan meten tzt |
2. Met de föhn de folie een beetje strakker krijgen is mogelijk. Daarmee wordt 't laag wat beter en strakker. |
3. Segmetering is wel fijner dan geen segmetering. Zal dit weer toepassen met nieuw setje weerstanden |
4. 10Mohn weerstand tussen de hoogstroom op de folie is wel noodzakelijk. Dit om te versterker in bedwang te houden. De NAD 2100 ging duidelijk in vervorming op beide kanalen, ook al had ik dat maar bij 1 kant aangepast. |
5. Echte volume krijg je er pas goed uit met een flinke versterker. Dit moet worden anders door de afstand tussen stators en folie te verminderen. |
6. Laag komt er wel mooi uit, maar het is niet nadrukkelijk aanwezig zoals bij een subwoofer. In combinatie met 2 subs is het wel compleet, maar heb je nog niet echt voldoende volume. Bij lage tonen gaat de NAD ook in 'soft clippen' en schiet in beveiliging.
On facebook I do have a project-page about my stuff:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/Elektrostaten/permalink/690801004459510/
Q1; I guess these are the same resistors as ES100. Panel of ES300 is the same as ES100
Q2: 4 wires worked good for me in the ES200. Es300 has somewhat more power at the low end so if it sounds too polite you may consider 6 wires. Its a kind of tweaking it to your taste and the rest of your audio chain.
The 10Mohm resistor is a safety resistor of the high voltage supply and doesnt affect power requirements of your amplifier at all. It should be on the circuitboard.
A fohn is not useful to increase the mechanical tension of Mylar. A heatgun (verfstripper, NL) works. But not by increasing tension, unless you didnt apply any tension before at all.
ES300 has an in build bass boost with corresponding larger excursions. Making the distance smaller between mylar and stator is not recommended. Some DCI models have even larger spacings.
If the ES300 is in good condition it will play loud. A 50W (at 8Ohm) amplifier is sufficient to drive these close or beyond their max. Audiostatics have not very low impedances at high frequency (unlike martin logan) so you dont need a Krell or monster amp.
Low output may indicate problems.
Dont know about NAD, whether it accepts capacitative loads or not.
Bass: difficult to beat dynamic speakers in this regard. Thats why I switched to hybrids (logans) You get higher efficiency as well.
Q2: 4 wires worked good for me in the ES200. Es300 has somewhat more power at the low end so if it sounds too polite you may consider 6 wires. Its a kind of tweaking it to your taste and the rest of your audio chain.
The 10Mohm resistor is a safety resistor of the high voltage supply and doesnt affect power requirements of your amplifier at all. It should be on the circuitboard.
A fohn is not useful to increase the mechanical tension of Mylar. A heatgun (verfstripper, NL) works. But not by increasing tension, unless you didnt apply any tension before at all.
ES300 has an in build bass boost with corresponding larger excursions. Making the distance smaller between mylar and stator is not recommended. Some DCI models have even larger spacings.
If the ES300 is in good condition it will play loud. A 50W (at 8Ohm) amplifier is sufficient to drive these close or beyond their max. Audiostatics have not very low impedances at high frequency (unlike martin logan) so you dont need a Krell or monster amp.
Low output may indicate problems.
Dont know about NAD, whether it accepts capacitative loads or not.
Bass: difficult to beat dynamic speakers in this regard. Thats why I switched to hybrids (logans) You get higher efficiency as well.
hoi M.J. Dijkstra,
Thanks for your clear answers! Ofcourse we understand this very clear. I do have a set of coating from you still here for the ES300's. Also the mylar is from you. I've bought the set from a guy from Purmerend. He didn't have time for the project to get the ES300 alive. So I give this a try.
I did check the whole proces with an old set of ES100. They do play now, but not realy loud in comparison with a set of small Final I have in my office. I will try them with new foil an coating.
@ ML Dijkstra: Do you still have the coating and mylar for sale?
Thanks for your clear answers! Ofcourse we understand this very clear. I do have a set of coating from you still here for the ES300's. Also the mylar is from you. I've bought the set from a guy from Purmerend. He didn't have time for the project to get the ES300 alive. So I give this a try.
I did check the whole proces with an old set of ES100. They do play now, but not realy loud in comparison with a set of small Final I have in my office. I will try them with new foil an coating.
@ ML Dijkstra: Do you still have the coating and mylar for sale?
Yes, mylar (100 cm wide) and coating is still available. The HTEC coating now available is an improved version of the EC-coating.
Efficiency of the es100 is probably lower than a final hybrid.....
@MJ Dijkstra:
I did use the EC coating on a ESH100. After the 1st layer of coating this did not perform well. Low sound volume and distorted sound. So I did do a 2nd layer on the ESH100 yesterday. I hope after a few days of drying and loading the result will be better.
Do you have a 'way of working' with the EC coating also? On my bottle of EC coating there was no recipe anymore..
I did use the EC coating on a ESH100. After the 1st layer of coating this did not perform well. Low sound volume and distorted sound. So I did do a 2nd layer on the ESH100 yesterday. I hope after a few days of drying and loading the result will be better.
Do you have a 'way of working' with the EC coating also? On my bottle of EC coating there was no recipe anymore..
@MJ Dijkstra:
I did use the EC coating on a ESH100. After the 1st layer of coating this did not perform well. Low sound volume and distorted sound. So I did do a 2nd layer on the ESH100 yesterday. I hope after a few days of drying and loading the result will be better.
Do you have a 'way of working' with the EC coating also? On my bottle of EC coating there was no recipe anymore..
There has been a lot of experience with EC-coating on audiostatics. It has been proven to work stable and well, even after 10 years of use. All ES-models are quite old speakers. Most of them only need new Mylar film with new coating but some have other problems as well. If you send me your private email I send you a new instructionguide. It has useful tips regarding the high voltage connection and other issues.
Film for es 200
Hi Guys. sorry for hijacking your tread... Plz bear with me, but i have a set of A.S. ES200 that are in need of service, they play, and are somewhat ok, but one is playing louder than the other, and they are not as open as they use to. at high volume the film is touching the panel and sounds like a spark coming.
Q1. do you have mylar film for sale, and can possible ship to denmark.
q.2 do you have a installation guidance for the procedure.
Many thanks Henrik
Hi Guys. sorry for hijacking your tread... Plz bear with me, but i have a set of A.S. ES200 that are in need of service, they play, and are somewhat ok, but one is playing louder than the other, and they are not as open as they use to. at high volume the film is touching the panel and sounds like a spark coming.
Q1. do you have mylar film for sale, and can possible ship to denmark.
q.2 do you have a installation guidance for the procedure.
Many thanks Henrik
Hey Henrik,
Q1:
I do use emergency blaket with gold / alu mylar on it. So I don't need coating. This works fine!
check: Outdoor Emergency Gereedschap Behouden Lichaamswarmte Emergency Space Rescue Thermische Mylar Dekens 160 cm x 210 cm B2Cshop in Outdoor Emergency Gereedschap Behouden Lichaamswarmte Emergency Space Rescue Thermische Mylar Dekens 160 cm x 210 cm B2Cshop van Veiligheid & Survival op AliExpress.com | Alibaba Groep
What I did is put the coppertape with the high voltage on the goldside. So this is on the backside of the stator. Due to the isolation of the 'gold' film / paint, you have to remove a small piece just as wide as the coppertape. I did use painterstape next to eachother with 7mm distance. The small open part I did remove the 'gold' paint with thinner. Do only remove the gold paint, and keep the alumium on the foil!! The alu is conductive! So the alu needs to connect to the coppertape.
Q1:
I do use emergency blaket with gold / alu mylar on it. So I don't need coating. This works fine!
check: Outdoor Emergency Gereedschap Behouden Lichaamswarmte Emergency Space Rescue Thermische Mylar Dekens 160 cm x 210 cm B2Cshop in Outdoor Emergency Gereedschap Behouden Lichaamswarmte Emergency Space Rescue Thermische Mylar Dekens 160 cm x 210 cm B2Cshop van Veiligheid & Survival op AliExpress.com | Alibaba Groep
What I did is put the coppertape with the high voltage on the goldside. So this is on the backside of the stator. Due to the isolation of the 'gold' film / paint, you have to remove a small piece just as wide as the coppertape. I did use painterstape next to eachother with 7mm distance. The small open part I did remove the 'gold' paint with thinner. Do only remove the gold paint, and keep the alumium on the foil!! The alu is conductive! So the alu needs to connect to the coppertape.
@Henrik
q.2 do you have a installation guidance for the procedure.
I did put the foil on a table and put some tension on it with ductape. I use approx 1% of stress on the foil. The alumium part on my stators are on the front side. So the coppertape with high voltage is on the backside of the 'gold' painted foil. So you put the alu side upwards so you can't see the gold side. Then glue the alu side with double sided glue tape on one side of the stator.
Put some pressure on both of the stators, because you glue them together on one sheet of emergency blanket. This is because the tension on the foil is then the same on both stators.
Well you do still understand?
Ok.. .well go on...
On my ES200 / ES100 / ES300 stators I do only use 1% tension stress on the foil. More is not needed to get clear sound. Most difficult in this is to get a good connection between the stator and the foil. I did use 3M double sided glue tape. This works quite well. But take your time when glueing the foil on the statos. Also do this at a degree of minimal 15degrees celsius, otherwise the glue will not connect well to the foil.....
Main reason I'm using emergency blankets is because of lot's of problems with getting the right type of coating. I've tried a lot of diff coatings. Some work well... some did not... So less = more, I prefer no coating at all!!!
The emergency blanket is superiour in my opinion because it's isolated on the stator-side because of the gold paint on it. Also on the alu side it's isolated with a transparant paint. So this is in my situation not giving sparkels or burning holes in the foil.
Another problem I have on my hybrid ESH100 with the emergency blanket is the lack of high voltage from the HV unit. This has nothing to do with the blanket, because on the other one of the ESH100 it's playing superb!
well... maybe I 've helped you with my experience and contact me if you need help. I've created a very detailed product log on facebook here of my projects:
Electrostatic Speakers Public Group | Facebook
q.2 do you have a installation guidance for the procedure.
I did put the foil on a table and put some tension on it with ductape. I use approx 1% of stress on the foil. The alumium part on my stators are on the front side. So the coppertape with high voltage is on the backside of the 'gold' painted foil. So you put the alu side upwards so you can't see the gold side. Then glue the alu side with double sided glue tape on one side of the stator.
Put some pressure on both of the stators, because you glue them together on one sheet of emergency blanket. This is because the tension on the foil is then the same on both stators.
Well you do still understand?
Ok.. .well go on...
On my ES200 / ES100 / ES300 stators I do only use 1% tension stress on the foil. More is not needed to get clear sound. Most difficult in this is to get a good connection between the stator and the foil. I did use 3M double sided glue tape. This works quite well. But take your time when glueing the foil on the statos. Also do this at a degree of minimal 15degrees celsius, otherwise the glue will not connect well to the foil.....
Main reason I'm using emergency blankets is because of lot's of problems with getting the right type of coating. I've tried a lot of diff coatings. Some work well... some did not... So less = more, I prefer no coating at all!!!
The emergency blanket is superiour in my opinion because it's isolated on the stator-side because of the gold paint on it. Also on the alu side it's isolated with a transparant paint. So this is in my situation not giving sparkels or burning holes in the foil.
Another problem I have on my hybrid ESH100 with the emergency blanket is the lack of high voltage from the HV unit. This has nothing to do with the blanket, because on the other one of the ESH100 it's playing superb!
well... maybe I 've helped you with my experience and contact me if you need help. I've created a very detailed product log on facebook here of my projects:
Electrostatic Speakers Public Group | Facebook
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