I recently acquired the speakers and I've read every where that need a 5 amp use on the audio Input. When I look around for fuses as they come with all different voltage ratings I've seen 12V, 32v, and 250 volts.
So my question is what voltage rating fuse would be best suited for the speakers.
My second question involves the binding post. One of the binding post got broken off of one speaker and the other speaker has a loose one now,I know I have to pretty much tear down the Interface to replace them. and from what I can tell that the binding post that are installed on speaker seem pretty much generic. So here's my question do I get any advantage out of replacing them with better binding post I've seen all metal, gold plated, some rated at 15 amps 250 volts and all of that stuff. Since this is a job I only want to do one time. I am very interested in the forum members opinion on this thank you
So my question is what voltage rating fuse would be best suited for the speakers.
My second question involves the binding post. One of the binding post got broken off of one speaker and the other speaker has a loose one now,I know I have to pretty much tear down the Interface to replace them. and from what I can tell that the binding post that are installed on speaker seem pretty much generic. So here's my question do I get any advantage out of replacing them with better binding post I've seen all metal, gold plated, some rated at 15 amps 250 volts and all of that stuff. Since this is a job I only want to do one time. I am very interested in the forum members opinion on this thank you
Just to be clear, you don't NEED a 5-amp fuse. That's the MAXIMUM recommended fuse value. Using a smaller-amperage fuse, like a 3-amp, might be okay depending on the size of your amplifier and how loud you play the speakers. The idea here is to use as small a value as possible while avoiding blowing the fuse under your (reasonable) maximum listening levels. In the end, most people do use a 5-amp fuse.
Be sure to use a FAST-BLOW fuse. Fuses labelled SLOW-BLOW take a lot longer to blow at a given current flow, and are pretty much useless for speaker protection. (Note that the two 1/4-amp fuses inside the interface should be slow-blow type.)
Thirdly, the voltage rating of the fuse doesn't really matter in this application. But if you have a choice, go for the 250-volt fuses. That's the rating as originally supplied by Acoustat.
Regarding the binding posts: I'm sure you'll get lots of opinions on this subject, but my belief is that you don't need to spend mega-bucks here. Yes, they should be rated for high current and gold-plated for corrosion protection, but it's far more important that they be well-suited for the terminals on your speaker wires. I recommend looking at www.parts-express.com. They have a good selection of reasonably-priced binding posts. Be sure to get a type designed for mounting in a metal chassis, and having provision for insulating the metal parts of the binding post from the metal of the chassis. When installing, be sure to use all the insulating bushings provided.
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