Go Back   Home > Forums > >
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Blogs Gallery Wiki Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Planars & Exotics ESL's, planars, and alternative technologies

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 23rd March 2013, 05:18 PM   #1
jeneses is offline jeneses  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Weybridge
Default My ESL


I thought to share my journey of building my own electrostatic speakers to encourage and help others to start their own built.


Around two years ago I started to think about improving my stereo system. I was looking at different (commercial) options and the electrostats came into the spotlight. It did not take too much to find out that the magical electrostatic speaker can be built at home using tools and materials available for the average DIYer. As I have engineering and designing skills I thought I should give it a go.
I had Roger Sanders's esl cookbook to start with and later I have discovered a fellow DIYer Jazzmans's blog who carefully documented his own built.
While Mr Sanders's book is an excellent source for general information I also found it outdated. Nowdays we have more materials available and the building process has improved as well. Charlie's (Jazzman) blog contains all the details and background information that one needs to succeed with their own built.
Since I mostly followed Charlie's blog during my built I am not going to repeat it here, instead I am going to point out some key steps which I found necessary to be able to complete a working esl.
I found his process straightforward and simple. I tried to cut some corners here and there but soon realised that it always resulted in poorer quality and had to take a step back and start again. If one is just about to start their first built, it might be better to follow those advice first and than leave the tweaking for later.
Here are my additions to the process:
- when preparing the perforated metal sheet I think it is better to find a shop where they can roll the sheet flat instead of trying to do it by hand. It is essential to have a completely flat surface. The ideal stator spacing is around 1-2mm (fullrange panel >150-200Hz) and for better efficiency and higher spl it is essential to get close to the lower value. Therefore I would leave it to professionals. Because of the unevenness I ended up using 2mm spacing.
- I did not round the sharp edges, simple laziness! Instead I wrapped it around with electrician's insulating tape and it seems fine.
- I went for powder coating. The coating must be thick and cover the holes inside as well. It must be checked for defects and repaired or redone if needed to prevent arcing and for safety purposes! This cannot be emphasised enough!
- Best to use very high bound tape and a well known brand as spacer. These tapes have shelf life, so better check your source.
- I have seen many ways on how to attach cable to the coated panel. I simply cut a small 7X7mm square on the powder coating, scraped off inside the square and soldered the wire on. Simple! A powerful soldering iron is needed though.
- Stretching the mylar. Hahh, that was fun! See pictures.


It worked, but I had to hold my breath. I would build a proper jig next time. There is one rule here, one must be able to repeat the process (at least one more time for a stereo system) with the same result. We want both side sound the same.
- For coating I used the Lycron spray. After two years of daily use they still sound the same. One could measure its thickness, resistance.... etc. I did not do that.

That is it!

The final result is a beautifully playing panel, all it needs is a frame to be built in.
Here I took a different approach. Limited space and desire for good looking objects led me to the creation of my own design. All my projects start on the computer whether I am working on interior design, kitchen, furniture or other objects. After some sleepless night and many virtual prototypes I ended up with this curved shape. The panel is elevated to the listening position, the underneath space holds the electronics (power supply, and transformers), the curve creates and in the same time hides the necessary bulk. The physical barrier more than a necessary addition, it is part of the object, seamlessly integrated into the shape. I am very pleased with it.
Here I have to make a confession. Aesthetics are important to me. I am the kind of person who would sacrifice 10% sound quality for a more pleasing appearance. I think in this case I managed to find the right balance.

My panels are crossed over at 210Hz (still experimenting). For the low end I use Ripole subs on each side, based on the Peerless 830668 SLS-263 10" sub woofer driver.

Electronics and full system
Active crossover and equalisation is recommended. I started with a Behringer CX3400 active crossover and a Behringer DEQ2496 digital equaliser.
This is relatively cheap option and works well. However I soon discovered the limited capabilities of this setup and I moved to fully digital.
Now I have a dedicated pc (laptop) running a media player software and FIR filters for crossover and room correction. It sounds more pleasing this way. No signal conversion between units, no DA/AD conversion, everything is taken care of in the digital domain. No soldering needed to change parameters of the crossover, endless tweaking is possible.
A good quality (external) audio card is a must. FIR filters are generated in a software called Acourate developed by Dr. Ulrich Brüggemann.
Currently, I am in a process of building my own amp based on Hypex UCD400HG+HxR modules. Started to work on the design of the case, watch out!

I felt I owe the diyAudio community to report back on my successful built.

I am very thankful to all those on this site who have helped me.
Special thanks for Jazzman documenting and posting his own built and for Calvin providing endless expert advice.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC_1494.jpg (67.8 KB, 296 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_1447.jpg (77.0 KB, 297 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_1458.jpg (64.4 KB, 267 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_1482-Edit.jpg (61.8 KB, 274 views)
File Type: jpg DSC_1484-Edit.jpg (70.3 KB, 261 views)

Last edited by jeneses; 31st March 2013 at 10:25 PM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd March 2013, 05:40 PM   #2
CharlieM is offline CharlieM  United States
diyAudio Member
CharlieM's Avatar
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Savannah, GA
Thomas, your design is elegant and the workmanship is fantastic!

You should be very proud. I only wish I were there to see the look on your face when you first cranked those babies up
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd March 2013, 05:44 PM   #3
geraldfryjr is offline geraldfryjr  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Jackson,michigan
Very Nice !!!!

I like your stretcher, Very simple yet elegant and gets the job done!!!

It is a fine sight too see yet another DIY ESL build !!!!


  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd March 2013, 06:12 PM   #4
jeneses is offline jeneses  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Weybridge
Thank you Charlie and Jer.
Yes, there must have been a look on my face, they sound fab!
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd March 2013, 06:22 PM   #5
phazer99 is offline phazer99  Sweden
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Sweden
That's one of the best looking ESL's I've seen. Congratz on the great work and I'm sure they sound as good as they look!
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd March 2013, 07:21 PM   #6
tyu is offline tyu  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Thanks for your time... an info.. an pix... on your ESLs
  Reply With Quote
Old 23rd March 2013, 10:23 PM   #7
Andersonix is offline Andersonix  Sweden
diyAudio Member
Andersonix's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Marin County, California
Well done! You have excellent design sense, and those are classically styled ESLs that will never go out of style. They remind me at first glance of Sanders' SB old project, but yours are better!
Attached Images
File Type: png Screen Shot 2013-03-23 at 15.16.43 .png (937.7 KB, 260 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2013, 07:45 AM   #8
ktuuri is offline ktuuri  Canada
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Beautiful work! Thanks for the Great Pics.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2013, 08:28 AM   #9
Calvin is offline Calvin  Germany
diyAudio Member
Calvin's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: close to Basel

very nice and professional looking. Congrats for finishing with such a fine result.

  Reply With Quote
Old 24th March 2013, 03:29 PM   #10
chinsettawong is offline chinsettawong  Thailand
diyAudio Member
chinsettawong's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2006
Very, very beautiful ESL. I really like the way you stretched the Mylar. May I ask how many milliliter of water is there is each bottle? What is your Mylar's thickness?

Wachar C.
  Reply With Quote


My ESLHide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
ER Audio ESL III Kit, and ESL questions in general wixy Planars & Exotics 27 29th July 2014 11:14 PM
Dutch ESL builders attention...part ESL for free Bas Horneman Swap Meet 10 14th June 2005 07:54 AM

New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 07:38 AM.

Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Resources saved on this page: MySQL 15.00%
vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2018 diyAudio