*L* That dream could have you waking up with your ears ringing....
That's right...you're in GA, I'm AVL.
Well, as you've likely heard...we've got more varieties of food that any typical diet could withstand, more 'craft beers' than an out of control rabbit hutch, tourist 'distractions' of all stripes, we 'keep it weird' here because it beats the alternatives...
...and then there's moi, with my current 'score' of scrap PVC from the plumbing supply house next door that just closed shop...
I 'fit in' around here. *LOL* I hold up my end of the 'weird', IMHO...
That's right...you're in GA, I'm AVL.
Well, as you've likely heard...we've got more varieties of food that any typical diet could withstand, more 'craft beers' than an out of control rabbit hutch, tourist 'distractions' of all stripes, we 'keep it weird' here because it beats the alternatives...
...and then there's moi, with my current 'score' of scrap PVC from the plumbing supply house next door that just closed shop...
I 'fit in' around here. *LOL* I hold up my end of the 'weird', IMHO...
Attachments
Thanks for the response JR!
I remember the Ohm's from the early 80's but with little money to be spending on stereo equipment these might as well have been sold on another planet or solar system so I didn't pay much attention to them honestly... only able to marvel at and wonder how they can possibly create music. Very exotic was the impression I had of them at the time.
Mainly listen to Jazz, blues and acoustic music so these should work very well for me! The Walsh drivers sound splendid and if I can pull myself away from my DML panels I REALLY want to build a set just to see how they sound.
Where do you source your "cone" material from?
Also, has anyone tried paper impregnated with a harder substance like thinned wood glue for instance!? Want to try a cone material that I have around the house. Remember the tissue paper and white glue projects we made as kids? I remember the result being a quite hard object actually...hmmm... what about multiple layers of tissue paper/glue? Possibly even use a pair of DML exciters I have just sitting about and waiting for a cone of some type to be glued to them.
Is this too far off the mark to try? While convenient, I don't want to build something that has little chance of sounding good either. Curious what your thoughts might be!?!? As for my DML panels. My approach to building them has been based on the years of work done by the fellas over at AudioCircle "Open Baffle Speakers" section - "NXT.......rubbish??....THINK AGAIN!" thread.
At the moment I'm listening to 1" thick Owens-Corning XPS panels 24" x 30" from Home Depot. They are sanded both sides with 100 grit using a palm sander. Corners rounded (6 in diameter) and edges rounded using a quarter-round router bit then hand sanded. Front treated with a 1:1 water to wood glue mix. I've been doing 2 coats on the back of the panel. The exciters are the new high-shove/power handling Dayton Audio DAEX32EP-4 Thrusters. Also taking the Dayton Audio DAEX32U-4 Ultra exciters for a spin. These may be better suited for a light-weight panel such as XPS.
I deviate from the proven formula a little as I prefer smaller panel sizes. To me, the LF quality of a larger panel does not meet the same performance standard set by the panels over the rest of the audio spectrum. The upper bass/lower mid-range to all but the highest of frequencies are presented very well by the panels. Either I'll use my open baffle OB bass bins for lower bass or create a 2 panel DML array and EQ the the bass and top octave to listen full-range. I do appreciate and prefer full-range drivers that can cover as much as the audio spectrum as possible and only fill in the extremes as needed.
I say to you JR. If you have not created a XPS/EPS panel sanded and treated with one of the new high quality exciters you really owe it to yourself to try. For around $50 and 2 hours of your time you can have a panel that is approaching world class in a number of aspects. They are very addicting to listen too...
Do hope these Walsh drivers can capture some of the same magic... or maybe another type of audio magic!?!? Can't imagine they will match the output of a DML panel but at the levels I listen, I don't think it will be a problem.
My sister lives in North Carolina Would no be to far of a trip. Ill let you know the next time I am headed that way. By then my speakers should have evolved quite well enough to happily display.*L* That dream could have you waking up with your ears ringing....
That's right...you're in GA, I'm AVL.
Well, as you've likely heard...we've got more varieties of food that any typical diet could withstand, more 'craft beers' than an out of control rabbit hutch, tourist 'distractions' of all stripes, we 'keep it weird' here because it beats the alternatives...
...and then there's moi, with my current 'score' of scrap PVC from the plumbing supply house next door that just closed shop...
I 'fit in' around here. *LOL* I hold up my end of the 'weird', IMHO...
I like the company of strangers...*G*
...the stranger, the better. *LOL*
Mags, I'd be pleased to be on the itinerary of the next NC road trip to siss' house. Just let me know the when so I'll have a pair of speaker leads waiting. *S*
Rich, I had the same reaction to the originals as well, and the same $ issue. And nothing serious enough to hook them up to, nor the space to let them really play in....*sigh*...and I probably would have blown them up, as they were wont to do then....
To save both of us some 'rehash' exercise time...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzQ6s9CUyWnUNjVFck1vUFVFcDg/view?pli=1
...will show you 'how to'...at least, my approach...
https://drive.google.com/a/ashevilleplaygrounds.com/file/d/0BzQ6s9CUyWnUV3k5VTh0QkM5elk/view?pli=1
...will play a really bad vid of what my V.1s' sounded like (kinda) before they died of voice coil heat death. My 4 current ones are V.3, and V.4 is in planning (V.3 upgrade to serious drivers, same size, perhaps different cone material).
Cone material is 5 mil lithographic aluminum. I've just found a way to eliminate the seam on the cone, but it'll require a lathe to do so. Guess I'll just have to see what I can come up with to go that route...it's called spin forming.
Look back at some of the earlier posts on this forum. Cochleus was using metalized papers such as available from Michaels or similar craft stores.
A simpler cone formula is available here:
craig-russell.co.uk/demos/cone_calculator
Re DMLs', I've read about your panel material and the PE drivers elsewhere, and I'm definitely interested in the drivers fer chure... Since I tend to like to try the path least followed (and I'm kinda used to tripping over things because you learn So Much on the way down And up...*L*), I've found these folks...and they're almost next door to me...and I'll be working in that area this week....
Honeycommcore are exclusive distributors for Alcore aluminum commercial grade honeycomb
I used to work with a plastic honeycomb decades ago. Insanely rigid, but light. And the PE white paper on DMLs' indicates that aluminum will fly.
I'm thinking of 1/8"~1/4" raw comb, faced with self-adhesive wood veneer. Spray it with 3M #90 both sides and apply the veneer, Bingo. Super light, super rigid, and potentially way pretty depending on the veneer choice....
Edge treatment...I'm leaning towards the EPS foam I'm using for the Walsh surrounds, but slightly thicker on the raw edges. The thinner stuff I'm using for supports as needed.
Size...eh, 'bout 16~18 x 24~30 ish inches...Golden Rectangle ratio has an appeal, and it's so 'classical' its' bound to cause Something to occur. Worth the shot, even if it's dark in there...
First, get a sample of the honeycomb and do a small 'test toy'. I'll let y'all know what happens.
...the stranger, the better. *LOL*
Mags, I'd be pleased to be on the itinerary of the next NC road trip to siss' house. Just let me know the when so I'll have a pair of speaker leads waiting. *S*
Rich, I had the same reaction to the originals as well, and the same $ issue. And nothing serious enough to hook them up to, nor the space to let them really play in....*sigh*...and I probably would have blown them up, as they were wont to do then....
To save both of us some 'rehash' exercise time...
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzQ6s9CUyWnUNjVFck1vUFVFcDg/view?pli=1
...will show you 'how to'...at least, my approach...
https://drive.google.com/a/ashevilleplaygrounds.com/file/d/0BzQ6s9CUyWnUV3k5VTh0QkM5elk/view?pli=1
...will play a really bad vid of what my V.1s' sounded like (kinda) before they died of voice coil heat death. My 4 current ones are V.3, and V.4 is in planning (V.3 upgrade to serious drivers, same size, perhaps different cone material).
Cone material is 5 mil lithographic aluminum. I've just found a way to eliminate the seam on the cone, but it'll require a lathe to do so. Guess I'll just have to see what I can come up with to go that route...it's called spin forming.
Look back at some of the earlier posts on this forum. Cochleus was using metalized papers such as available from Michaels or similar craft stores.
A simpler cone formula is available here:
craig-russell.co.uk/demos/cone_calculator
Re DMLs', I've read about your panel material and the PE drivers elsewhere, and I'm definitely interested in the drivers fer chure... Since I tend to like to try the path least followed (and I'm kinda used to tripping over things because you learn So Much on the way down And up...*L*), I've found these folks...and they're almost next door to me...and I'll be working in that area this week....
Honeycommcore are exclusive distributors for Alcore aluminum commercial grade honeycomb
I used to work with a plastic honeycomb decades ago. Insanely rigid, but light. And the PE white paper on DMLs' indicates that aluminum will fly.
I'm thinking of 1/8"~1/4" raw comb, faced with self-adhesive wood veneer. Spray it with 3M #90 both sides and apply the veneer, Bingo. Super light, super rigid, and potentially way pretty depending on the veneer choice....
Edge treatment...I'm leaning towards the EPS foam I'm using for the Walsh surrounds, but slightly thicker on the raw edges. The thinner stuff I'm using for supports as needed.
Size...eh, 'bout 16~18 x 24~30 ish inches...Golden Rectangle ratio has an appeal, and it's so 'classical' its' bound to cause Something to occur. Worth the shot, even if it's dark in there...
First, get a sample of the honeycomb and do a small 'test toy'. I'll let y'all know what happens.
Hey, Mags! As a further enticement for an NC 'road trip', you'll remember that I'd thought it'd be interesting to take two Walsh and put them 'butt to butt' as it were...upend one and put it upside down under another?
I can do that, now. *BG* I'll set up a pair of 'test stands', but I'll hold off until you can come by. We can have a good laugh 'abusing' my 'toys'. A 'adult version' of the firecracker in the model airplane. And nothing gets broken...the worse we could do is to fry voice coils on drivers I intend to replace Anyway.
Now, how cool is that? *L*
I can do that, now. *BG* I'll set up a pair of 'test stands', but I'll hold off until you can come by. We can have a good laugh 'abusing' my 'toys'. A 'adult version' of the firecracker in the model airplane.
And nothing gets broken...the worse we could do is to fry voice coils on drivers I intend to replace Anyway.Now, how cool is that? *L*
Page 9, #89; my drawing of the 'intended experiment'.
Only difference will be a 4" diameter x 6" 'collar' to couple them. My experience with my units is that they're generating negligible bass from the bottom, which is (in my understanding of the original patent) a 'good thing'. (Thanks M. Stewart, you ex-con jailbird you...*L* I'm kinda glad her '15 minutes' are up....)
The columns I've got mine on are more for elevation than anything else. I have dogs, and things on the floor tend to get kicked about around here....
Only difference will be a 4" diameter x 6" 'collar' to couple them. My experience with my units is that they're generating negligible bass from the bottom, which is (in my understanding of the original patent) a 'good thing'. (Thanks M. Stewart, you ex-con jailbird you...*L* I'm kinda glad her '15 minutes' are up....)
The columns I've got mine on are more for elevation than anything else. I have dogs, and things on the floor tend to get kicked about around here....
Oh, and a correction to post #196. The JBL drivers are/were from L80Ts', late '80s.
Titanium dome tweets, 4" mid, 10" woofs, xovers, ports, hardware, stripped all the pertinent parts. Just have to duplicate the known volume of the cabinets....
The curved backs should eliminate standing waves except for top/bottom. What I remember from the originals was the lack of any interior batting. I'm intending to see if the addition of some will effect their character in the long run...
Titanium dome tweets, 4" mid, 10" woofs, xovers, ports, hardware, stripped all the pertinent parts. Just have to duplicate the known volume of the cabinets....
The curved backs should eliminate standing waves except for top/bottom. What I remember from the originals was the lack of any interior batting. I'm intending to see if the addition of some will effect their character in the long run...
...the stranger, the better. *LOL*
Re DMLs', I've read about your panel material and the PE drivers elsewhere, and I'm definitely interested in the drivers fer chure... Since I tend to like to try the path least followed (and I'm kinda used to tripping over things because you learn So Much on the way down And up...*L*), I've found these folks...and they're almost next door to me...and I'll be working in that area this week....
Honeycommcore are exclusive distributors for Alcore aluminum commercial grade honeycomb
I used to work with a plastic honeycomb decades ago. Insanely rigid, but light. And the PE white paper on DMLs' indicates that aluminum will fly.
I'm thinking of 1/8"~1/4" raw comb, faced with self-adhesive wood veneer. Spray it with 3M #90 both sides and apply the veneer, Bingo. Super light, super rigid, and potentially way pretty depending on the veneer choice....
Edge treatment...I'm leaning towards the EPS foam I'm using for the Walsh surrounds, but slightly thicker on the raw edges. The thinner stuff I'm using for supports as needed.
Size...eh, 'bout 16~18 x 24~30 ish inches...Golden Rectangle ratio has an appeal, and it's so 'classical' its' bound to cause Something to occur. Worth the shot, even if it's dark in there...
First, get a sample of the honeycomb and do a small 'test toy'. I'll let y'all know what happens.
Thanks JR,
I have some research to do then for the Walsh drivers. Very interesting. Cool that Decware had developed something based on the Walsh drivers... was very hopeful to see a modern adaptation!
For the DML panels, the honeycomb AL has a lot of potential! Though to apply the veneer or whatever material you cover the comb with I would use a glue that dried hard... the 3M stuff has a consistency like contact cement unless they have changed the formula over time. I am no expert when it comes to adhesives but a slow dry epoxy to me would appear to be an excellent solution. Hell, even thinned wood glue put on with a foam roller. I would apply heat once it attached just to be sure you get a good bond. I have applied wood veneer to MDF this way in the past and worked better than I first would have imagined.
I am tempted to try honeycomb as well but want to sort out the XPS panels and new Dayton exciters before moving on to either of these. I've been stuck in front of the panels... still waiting for the newness of the panels to wear off but no such luck.
Again, thanks for the info!
Rich
??? Must have me mixed up with someone else. I have always used only pure aluminum foils (from Grainger), paper and carbon fiber.
Hi, Gary...yeah, you're probably right. I may have mixed your use of paper with some other comment 'somewhere' about paper-backed foils. The curse of 'wetware' strikes yet again...guess I'm due for an upgrade. (Fat chance there...*L*) But Rich can consider using paper, which he'd mentioned. Thanks for chiming in. *G*
Rich, I've used the 3M 90 to apply thin stock metals (brass, alum, laminates) to plastics with good results. Coating both materials after sanding to raise a 'grain' on either or both as needed makes a big difference. The better contact adhesives (the non-latex varieties, the ones that are guaranteed to promote brain damage {one of my favorite excuses *smirk*} and that gives one a cheap 'buzz' or headache) work the best.
I'm not sure that wood glue would hold up over time app'd to aluminum, esp. on a panel subject to the various vibration modes of a DML. At least, not the typ. stuff @ Home Dep or Lowes....
Only way to definitively answer the question is to try it out...see if one can rattle it loose. Meanwhile, enjoy your 'children'...I can identify. I'm still enjoying my V.3s'.
As you've noticed, Mags and moi' might get to meet up IRL and compare our prodigy.
That, and I'm intrigued by the experiment suggested as an 'enticement'. I haven't tried it yet, and I feel It Should Be Tried if only for grins. Has it been tried before? Not to my knowledge. Therefore...
Rich, I've used the 3M 90 to apply thin stock metals (brass, alum, laminates) to plastics with good results. Coating both materials after sanding to raise a 'grain' on either or both as needed makes a big difference. The better contact adhesives (the non-latex varieties, the ones that are guaranteed to promote brain damage {one of my favorite excuses *smirk*} and that gives one a cheap 'buzz' or headache) work the best.
I'm not sure that wood glue would hold up over time app'd to aluminum, esp. on a panel subject to the various vibration modes of a DML. At least, not the typ. stuff @ Home Dep or Lowes....
Only way to definitively answer the question is to try it out...see if one can rattle it loose. Meanwhile, enjoy your 'children'...I can identify. I'm still enjoying my V.3s'.
As you've noticed, Mags and moi' might get to meet up IRL and compare our prodigy.
That, and I'm intrigued by the experiment suggested as an 'enticement'. I haven't tried it yet, and I feel It Should Be Tried if only for grins. Has it been tried before? Not to my knowledge. Therefore...
BTB, Rich...ran into this companys' site, like the way they've structured their panels, think it could be diy'd successfully....
Amina : Wireless Ceiling Speakers and In Ceiling Speakers
...certainly beats this approach, although it works to some degree...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4F7...eature=iv&annotation_id=annotation_1393951273
...maybe with a bigger driver fed heavy metal, it could be great for those aches 'n pains that need a dose of 'head banger' *LOL* Certainly not Vivaldi...
Amina : Wireless Ceiling Speakers and In Ceiling Speakers
...certainly beats this approach, although it works to some degree...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4F7...eature=iv&annotation_id=annotation_1393951273
...maybe with a bigger driver fed heavy metal, it could be great for those aches 'n pains that need a dose of 'head banger' *LOL* Certainly not Vivaldi...
Hey JR!!
The adherence was not my concern but the idea that you should use a adhesive that dries hard. If you would use a contact cement or the similar 3M adhesive you run the risk of absorbing high frequencies. The 3M stuff, while super sticky stuff) is thick and hard to spray on thin and even. That was the intent of my post. An epoxy would be best but more $$$. This is just a hunch and experimentation will tell the story.
In the end, I believe you really want a hard and tight bond to make the honeycomb and wood veneer as much a single piece of material as possible. My assumption is that if a contact cement type was used after the panel is complete and you knocked on the panel with a knuckle the panel would more than likely make a dull thud instead of a hard and tight higher pitched more resonant sound. If that makes sense.
I'm trying a 1/8 inch Baltic birch ply next to test ply with the new Thruster exciters on ply. Then possibly on to the alum comb...
Yeah, the truth will lie in the pudding, so to speak. My experience with epoxies is that they 'dry hard' (Bruce Willis notwithstanding), but the better contact cements will do essentially the same. But most epoxies that are worth using are of the 2-part variety, and you've got to get the mix down perfect and laid in the time period that it's workable. That, and an even coat...which is doable, but you'd best be quick anyway....
The 1/8" BB sounds like a good next step. Unless you fall totally in love with them...then the honeycomb might seems superfluous, but you can't have too many speakers, right? *L*
The 1/8" BB sounds like a good next step. Unless you fall totally in love with them...then the honeycomb might seems superfluous, but you can't have too many speakers, right? *L*
14? Damn*L* That's a lot of variables to play with...I can admire your interest and commitment, but... I should talk (and do, a lot, at least on a keyboard) but all that? Are they all on a Walsh project, or spread out among many others that you're not inferring? Curious minds remain curious...*S*
Oh, the honeycomb is in reference to playing with a DML project that's still in the 'push it around in my head and concept drawing' stage. A Walsh cone in honeycomb would have to be huge, since the stuff doesn't respond to bending happily. But it does have a 'bent appeal' to this mortal...a voice coil the diameter of a 5 gallon bucket, driven by supercooled magnets the size of a cars' wheel rim. Probably be able to hear it a quarter of a mile away...gotta win the Megalotto first...
Right now I'm eyeing a pair of Pioneers at the local Habitat for 'raw materials'. 3 way units (1" dome/4" mids/12" woofs with torn cones) for $15, ripe for my insidious plots 'n plans. The domes for Walsh tweets, the 4" for a pair with lighter cone structures, the 12" for a foray into 'bigger might be better' using a segmented cone stucture using the 5 mil aluminum sheeting I've got. Originally rated at 150w., so I might be able to 'push' them harder after break-in... We'll see what's hiding inside those cabinets...
They've also got a real pretty pair of Infinity RM-122s' for 95$. Ebayers' are listing them at 250~300$. I've always had a soft spot for Infins' (along with all the other soft spots in my skull), but need another pair of speaks like more holes in an already well-vented head. And I don't have the desire to play the 'buy it and turn it' game, tempting as it may be. 'Easy money' doesn't exist, really. Ask anyone that does it with houses...
No, the rationale behind thinking about DMLs' is:
They create a 'diffused' sound field that still 'hears' as stereo/left/right, but not as 'defined' as the typical direct radiators we're used to.
The Walsh create a sound field that is more 'defined', but has more 'expanse', if you will. Especially since I'm running 4 of them (l/r, f/r), you can position yourself so that the 'heard environment' verges on being 'adjusted' fore and aft. It's uncanny what happens to the 'sweet spot', at least to my ancient ears.
The 'line source' stack that I'm running, directly behind the front pair of Walsh units, when you adjust the volume augments the 'power' of the Walsh pair without overpowering them. And they're definite as to l/r placement.
What I goofing around with is trying to 'bring the stage' into the room. Not 'surround sound', since the majority of recorded music isn't meant to be 'surround'. We listen to music 'live' presented on a stage; we're not 'midst the band or the symphony, we're in an audience listening to a stage performance in an environment.
By fooling around with levels and adjusting delay times (which my amp allows for, as well as the xover), I'm aiming at trying to acoustically create the stage in my space, crude as it may be. There needs to be more development in hooking it all up to enable this, and the placement of drivers to make this 'blend' properly. But already I've noticed some development towards this, and had a least 2 people fooled into thinking that 'yeah, something's occurring 'There'.
I need Walsh drivers that can be 'pushed' a little harder without toasting. The DMLs' are different sort of animal, but they're starting to be taken seriously since they've finally been developed into something that could be taken as such.
We will see. I remember reading some years ago about a Tascam engineer who had built an entire listening room trying to create a 'tangible 3D sonic image', a multi-channel marvel no doubt. I guess I'm interested in the same sort of quest, but with a different set of drivers, ones more suitable IMHO to the endeavor. And likely less expensive, since I'm messing about with whatever I can cobble together.
We're already listening to diffraction patterns already. I'm just trying to 'steer' them in some fashion... And it's fun to play about with, which is the whole point of a hobby. And I could have worst interests when it comes to 'play'. Guns, cars or bikes that go way too fast, illegal 'lightweight luxuries'...I could go on, but I'd rather go have dinner....*L*
Oh, the honeycomb is in reference to playing with a DML project that's still in the 'push it around in my head and concept drawing' stage. A Walsh cone in honeycomb would have to be huge, since the stuff doesn't respond to bending happily. But it does have a 'bent appeal' to this mortal...a voice coil the diameter of a 5 gallon bucket, driven by supercooled magnets the size of a cars' wheel rim. Probably be able to hear it a quarter of a mile away...gotta win the Megalotto first...
Right now I'm eyeing a pair of Pioneers at the local Habitat for 'raw materials'. 3 way units (1" dome/4" mids/12" woofs with torn cones) for $15, ripe for my insidious plots 'n plans. The domes for Walsh tweets, the 4" for a pair with lighter cone structures, the 12" for a foray into 'bigger might be better' using a segmented cone stucture using the 5 mil aluminum sheeting I've got. Originally rated at 150w., so I might be able to 'push' them harder after break-in... We'll see what's hiding inside those cabinets...
They've also got a real pretty pair of Infinity RM-122s' for 95$. Ebayers' are listing them at 250~300$. I've always had a soft spot for Infins' (along with all the other soft spots in my skull), but need another pair of speaks like more holes in an already well-vented head. And I don't have the desire to play the 'buy it and turn it' game, tempting as it may be. 'Easy money' doesn't exist, really. Ask anyone that does it with houses...
No, the rationale behind thinking about DMLs' is:
They create a 'diffused' sound field that still 'hears' as stereo/left/right, but not as 'defined' as the typical direct radiators we're used to.
The Walsh create a sound field that is more 'defined', but has more 'expanse', if you will. Especially since I'm running 4 of them (l/r, f/r), you can position yourself so that the 'heard environment' verges on being 'adjusted' fore and aft. It's uncanny what happens to the 'sweet spot', at least to my ancient ears.
The 'line source' stack that I'm running, directly behind the front pair of Walsh units, when you adjust the volume augments the 'power' of the Walsh pair without overpowering them. And they're definite as to l/r placement.
What I goofing around with is trying to 'bring the stage' into the room. Not 'surround sound', since the majority of recorded music isn't meant to be 'surround'. We listen to music 'live' presented on a stage; we're not 'midst the band or the symphony, we're in an audience listening to a stage performance in an environment.
By fooling around with levels and adjusting delay times (which my amp allows for, as well as the xover), I'm aiming at trying to acoustically create the stage in my space, crude as it may be. There needs to be more development in hooking it all up to enable this, and the placement of drivers to make this 'blend' properly. But already I've noticed some development towards this, and had a least 2 people fooled into thinking that 'yeah, something's occurring 'There'.
I need Walsh drivers that can be 'pushed' a little harder without toasting. The DMLs' are different sort of animal, but they're starting to be taken seriously since they've finally been developed into something that could be taken as such.
We will see. I remember reading some years ago about a Tascam engineer who had built an entire listening room trying to create a 'tangible 3D sonic image', a multi-channel marvel no doubt. I guess I'm interested in the same sort of quest, but with a different set of drivers, ones more suitable IMHO to the endeavor. And likely less expensive, since I'm messing about with whatever I can cobble together.
We're already listening to diffraction patterns already. I'm just trying to 'steer' them in some fashion... And it's fun to play about with, which is the whole point of a hobby. And I could have worst interests when it comes to 'play'. Guns, cars or bikes that go way too fast, illegal 'lightweight luxuries'...I could go on, but I'd rather go have dinner....*L*