Stacked pair of Quad ESL 57

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About measurements: I measured my pair of ESLs using a CEL-275/CEL-296 integrating sound level meter. It was set up for Leq measurement and 1/3 octave bands. Leq does long term average. I excited the panels with PRBS pink noise, and measured from 3 meters in the actual listening room. So I got realistic frequency response (speaker and room combined) at the listening position.
 
I've been browsing where I normally don't and came across this thread and thought a zombie post was in order.

I've been running stacked quads for a while now, powered from a rebuilt ST70 with KT66s. ---
Arend-jan - what was the chipamp you mentioned in the post? I tried running them from an F5 but that combination didn't err, get on. Burn out resistors in the F5!

Fran
I'm running a Quad with a lot of success on my F5.
It is very sensitive to the preamp and CD.

I read from Hiraga in the original article that the Le Classe A has been used for stacked Quads both parallel and series. His output differs from the F5 (darlingnot) but that can be substituted imho in the F5. The darlingnot theoretically handles capacitative load better.
albert
 
Fran,
With the new 'turbo' option (diodes) you should have ample current.

Series is better than parallel I think. As you can look up in my build, the F5 is very dominated by the source resistances. The max power at 4 and 2 ohms are almost the same, and equal in level to 20 ohms, so it does not have the usual solid state quadratic function. In this way, series connection will be managed well. This 'shelving' is a clue given for his good performance by Hiraga. Maybe it helps I have Toshiba's.
albert
 
I find the 57's to be a little more tricky, often due to treble panel warping or deformation over years of storage. The 57 panels are not built with the same precision as the 63's. So getting matched response from panels is harder. Plus many 57 treble panels have burned areas that need repaired. And they all are older with more potential for neglect and issues. There is a ton of rivets to remove for each 57 panel, and replace with some other rivet-like fastener (I use nuts and bolts).

The 63 frames and stators are higher precision. The glue that holds the circuit board stators to the frames is the Achilles heal of the 63's and the crappy quad glue has paid for many vacations for me. There are two more panels on the 63's, but they are a lot easier to rebuild. The 63's are held together better, not relying on tape, plywood frames, and visible expanded metal grilles. Taking apart and reassembling a 63 is easier, but is tedious due to the many connections to the panels, but the connections are pretty obvious.

The electronics in the 63's is more complex. There is a clamp circuit that is fairly involved. The high voltage supply is a bit more complex. The delay lines are also more complex but are essentially trouble free in my experience.

In terms of ER kits, I think the 63 kit is more complete and overall easier to follow and produces a result that is very close to the original Quad speaker when complete. The ER 57 kit is a little bit of a departure from the way I rebuild the 57's, and the manual (as I've seen it a year or so ago) is a little less complete than the 63 manual.

It's really a matter of personal taste (57 vs 63) and what you can find to buy and rebuild. I've had a lot of both types over the 15+ years I've been rebuilding and using them. The 57's have a midrange transparency that is hard to beat, arguably the best out there in the sweet spot. The 57's don't have as good of extension in the bass and treble. The 63's have better dispersion, you can get very good tonal balance farther away from the sweet spot than with the 57's. The 63's look much much nicer than the 57's (IMHO), with the 57's looking like they were built in a garage.

Sheldon

I have heard both 57 and 63's rebuilt by PK and still prefer the 63's same as when stock.

Mine are just one plain pair of 57. from around 1970.

You should have yours rebuilt , the difference in dynamics is staggering ...;)
 
A note on rebuilding the 57 tweeter panels
I,m rebuilding an extra set of damaged panel (burns) and the areas are very small. Cleaning the affected areas and lightly sanding with ultafine 1000 grit, I took some acetone with a small brush and disolved some of the grey paint underneath the borders and reapplied it over the burned areas as a new coating, its hard to tell there was a burn now.
Am I asking for trouble or should I go the corona dope method?
I noticed the factory application of paint leaves some specks as if they sprayed them outdoors,., should these be lightly sanded down also even though they they never arked in those spots?

Regards
David
 
You should have yours rebuilt , the difference in dynamics is staggering ...;)
Good nudge. I looked at Arend-jan's ESL.labs site, refurbishing sounds like a good proposition.
A look at the serial number list shows mine to be from 1979 (47960), so I bought them ten years old in 1989 ..

I do have a pair of OTL amplifiers that can output an astonishing 80 volts RMS and indeed I did hear some scary ticks but saw no flashes - reason I settled for traditional amps and I have not had a problem since.

Arend-jan's voltage clamping protection board will help me for sure too then.
albert
 
I been wanting a pair of esl 57s for more then 20 years now and last week I got a hold of two pairs!!!! Planning to stack them, but I am missing a transformer... anybody knows where to get ahold of one? Been searching the bay without any luck so far.
Appriciate all the help I can get!
Pepe
 
I originally got 2 pairs myself many a year ago. First listen to a pair before you go to the trouble of stacking them.
Don,t consider automatically that's the best way. They were never designed for stacking and you will be losing and gaining in area's depending on your priority's
If you stack, are they both equal in integrity without any burn holes to the panels? Sounds like some issues if you need a trans.
Are all 4 close in serial #'s?

Regards
David
 
AVWERK:
I got one of the pairs hooked up in my livingroom right now and they do sound good in non stacked configuration. It is more out of curiosity that I want to try stacked pairs.
I have planned to restore both pair anyway so after that they should hopefully be close enough match for stacking..... I hope!?
The ones I got hooked up do not have burnet pannels, but the other pair do have treblepannels that are burnt (got that pair for "free" when I bought the ones I'm using right now).

I want to repaint the grills and would like to know the best way of getting rid of the old paint before I send the grills to the automotive laquer or maybe I wil like them in their raw unpainted..... will probably qo for bronzegrills!

Best regards
Peter
 
I hope you have the pair up off the floor at least 12" + for best transparency.

The grills could be powder coated? Mine look anodized.. Maybe yours were painted before.
Bead blasting is the only effective way to get any paint off this kind of grill. Are you sure their painted?

Regards
David
 
The grills on my both pairs have been painted for shure, the paint is starting to chip.
Unfortunatly thay are most of the time directly placed on the floor. I have tried use my dinnertablechairs for stands and as you say the SQ improves a lot.
Where I live now is just for a short time of period and the room they are placed in is very small and far away from ideal, it's like wearing GIGANTIC esl headphones.
As soon as I moved to my new flat I will start looking into refurbing both pairs and I will need to make some stands or feet for them also. Aestheticly I prefer the original esl 57 feet, the stands from one thing audio do not apeal to me.
If I go for stacked ones I will most defenetly suspend/hang them from the seiling. do not like the stands I've seen for stacked pairs so far.
 
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