Hey, just made this contraption to get the fluid into the crevice between the diaphragm and the wooden clamp...
A basketball needle with tube and syringe...I knew I became a mechanical engineer for something...
Also bought some flowable silicone for windshield sealant, and while I was there, picked up some liquid electrical tape...looks like they may work?
Maybe I will see if I can bend the needle about 60 degrees to better get into those spots...Bingo, now bent at a 60 degree angle...good thing its stainless. Now to find out if the silicone will flow through it...
A basketball needle with tube and syringe...I knew I became a mechanical engineer for something...
Also bought some flowable silicone for windshield sealant, and while I was there, picked up some liquid electrical tape...looks like they may work?
Maybe I will see if I can bend the needle about 60 degrees to better get into those spots...Bingo, now bent at a 60 degree angle...good thing its stainless. Now to find out if the silicone will flow through it...
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No Tyu, haven't got pics.
Hi Davey,
Yes, the Mods won't delete it
John, your tip is very solid, you should take care not to damage the corrugation of the foil.
With soft silicone tubes, the Chance Tod damage something is less given. Being careful, your tip oft course also is useable.
I used zermack HT 33. One point important: Once dried, it should be very soft, so the foil experiences less stress when playing music.
The top and bottom horizontal clamps (wooden block) are not siliconed, only the vertical sides are treated (in the Front and backsides of the speakers).
More tomorrow.
Regards
Olaf
Hi Davey,
Yes, the Mods won't delete it
John, your tip is very solid, you should take care not to damage the corrugation of the foil.
With soft silicone tubes, the Chance Tod damage something is less given. Being careful, your tip oft course also is useable.
I used zermack HT 33. One point important: Once dried, it should be very soft, so the foil experiences less stress when playing music.
The top and bottom horizontal clamps (wooden block) are not siliconed, only the vertical sides are treated (in the Front and backsides of the speakers).
More tomorrow.
Regards
Olaf
John, I bet your windshield sealer will get too hard once dried.
To put less stress to the foil, it's important to use something very soft.
My suggestion is working perfectly.
About doing only one side (the front); I think it's not enough if you play music a little bit louder, it will still buzz.
But try it and decide for yourself.
Applying the stuff to the back sides is not so complicated: Gravity and the flowing silicone is your friend
You have to "pour" the silicone from the top, and place the Apogee, so that gravity will guide the flow downward in the gap. The tilt of the speaker should be low, so that it'll flow slowly.
You can see the backward gap looking onto the top of the speaker (with removed cover), like on Geralds Pic.
Olaf
Regards
Olaf
To put less stress to the foil, it's important to use something very soft.
My suggestion is working perfectly.
About doing only one side (the front); I think it's not enough if you play music a little bit louder, it will still buzz.
But try it and decide for yourself.
Applying the stuff to the back sides is not so complicated: Gravity and the flowing silicone is your friend
You have to "pour" the silicone from the top, and place the Apogee, so that gravity will guide the flow downward in the gap. The tilt of the speaker should be low, so that it'll flow slowly.
You can see the backward gap looking onto the top of the speaker (with removed cover), like on Geralds Pic.
Olaf
Regards
Olaf
OK, I see what you mean for the back...hmmm, not so complicated...let it drip down...can the same method be used for the front?
I think I have more good foam in front than I have in the back...
I have a blob of windshield sealant drying now...we will see how hard it is in a few hours...
At 49" long, 1/4" wide., and 1/16" thick, and four rails (only verticals), and back and front, we are looking at 6 cubic inches of volume (around 3.2oz), but the foam should easily take up some of that volume...
I have a tube of 1.6 oz windshield sealer...
I think I have more good foam in front than I have in the back...
I have a blob of windshield sealant drying now...we will see how hard it is in a few hours...
At 49" long, 1/4" wide., and 1/16" thick, and four rails (only verticals), and back and front, we are looking at 6 cubic inches of volume (around 3.2oz), but the foam should easily take up some of that volume...
I have a tube of 1.6 oz windshield sealer...
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OK, something for all you...simple free tone generator...dial in your frequency...
Audio Frequency Generator FREEWARE
My Duetta Signatures kazoo between 170Hz and 310Hz...all else is fine...I wish I had this when I bought my Apogees.
Audio Frequency Generator FREEWARE
My Duetta Signatures kazoo between 170Hz and 310Hz...all else is fine...I wish I had this when I bought my Apogees.
The silicone is actually fairly soft unless you get it really thick.
I used it to repair a surround on one of my 12's and it work great.
It is a lot softer than the standard bathroom/kitchen stuff.
Use a very thin bead, it seems to have the consistency after it cures similar to some dome tweeter and midrange surrounds that I have seen.
I was thinking it might be worth while to use a thin card of some sorts the clean out any bad foam along the gap.
The old deteriorated foam stuff might cause it not to flow into the gap and bond properly.
jer
I used it to repair a surround on one of my 12's and it work great.
It is a lot softer than the standard bathroom/kitchen stuff.
Use a very thin bead, it seems to have the consistency after it cures similar to some dome tweeter and midrange surrounds that I have seen.
I was thinking it might be worth while to use a thin card of some sorts the clean out any bad foam along the gap.
The old deteriorated foam stuff might cause it not to flow into the gap and bond properly.
jer
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Thanks For all your info....
Not all can do this...to old... Cant move the speakers around..well kill the driver right when there almost done...it gos on an on... but if the buzz is bad a nuf...
What dose one have to lose.....
Thats Why i have My Apogee Stages ....Acoustats ESL.... ML...
In wateing...Long Live Acoustats
Good Luck
Not all can do this...to old... Cant move the speakers around..well kill the driver right when there almost done...it gos on an on... but if the buzz is bad a nuf...
What dose one have to lose.....
Thats Why i have My Apogee Stages ....Acoustats ESL.... ML...
In wateing...Long Live Acoustats
Good Luck
Nope. I've owned only Duetta's but have listened to Diva's, Scintilla's, Stage's and a couple of the hybrid models.
The business model that 'Graz' has adopted is not sustainable over the long run. Eventually someone here in North America with the capabilities to fabricate woofer ribbons will provide a solution for capable DIY'ers who are on a budget.
Cheers,
Dave.
Hi John65b, My 2cents worth, I have all the models but the Full range and the hybrids, I would give the 1 ohm Scintilla's top spot at this time over the rest, The Diva's seem to be a bit thin sounding on the mid ribbons, but that could be due to my amps and the passive setup, However I do have a set of Grazed Diva's, all new ribbons that I will set up soon when I get my Carver silver sevens back from repair. The Duetta sigs would be a very very close second
I had many buzz problems with my Duettas.
They were coming fron the cover and the main frame. May be that could be a good place to start with, before injecting stuff around the ribbons.
Have you investigated this possibility?
What I do is use a variable signal generator, I start at low frequency and slowly move up. When I ear a buzz, (resonnant frequency) I stop and press with my hands all around the cover to see if I can eliminate or reduce it.
Then, I fixed the problem using shingle or a short wood screw, placed where the problem is corrected.
There could be a few more resonnant frequencies as we move up in frequencies. In this case I start with the loudess vibration and when corected I do the same treatment to the remaining buzz. Normaly working on the stronger vibration will have an effect on others as well. If this solution has some effect on the buzz, this means that the problem does not lie with the foam, but some mechanical vibration in the casing.
I am folowing your work with great interest since I don't know when the time could come I may need to do what is suggested on the thread.
They were coming fron the cover and the main frame. May be that could be a good place to start with, before injecting stuff around the ribbons.
Have you investigated this possibility?
What I do is use a variable signal generator, I start at low frequency and slowly move up. When I ear a buzz, (resonnant frequency) I stop and press with my hands all around the cover to see if I can eliminate or reduce it.
Then, I fixed the problem using shingle or a short wood screw, placed where the problem is corrected.
There could be a few more resonnant frequencies as we move up in frequencies. In this case I start with the loudess vibration and when corected I do the same treatment to the remaining buzz. Normaly working on the stronger vibration will have an effect on others as well. If this solution has some effect on the buzz, this means that the problem does not lie with the foam, but some mechanical vibration in the casing.
I am folowing your work with great interest since I don't know when the time could come I may need to do what is suggested on the thread.
John if your are not runing the Duetta with the DCX2496...that would pullout most of the buzz....maybe... i have had 6 pr of Apogees... but never went {Full} active...that way you could get higher output befor the buzz...i would think...I have ran the Krell KBX crossover in the 90s on B&Ws...An to pull the bass out of the Apogees...still used the stock crossovers in the Duettas...
Active i could get a lot more output... an cant even see the driver move.
I would like to see you cover all bases befor you go down what may be the only path.....
the sound of these Apogees is one of a kind sound....but dont wont you to get turn off if all dose not go well....But that just ME....Have fun ...good luck
Active i could get a lot more output... an cant even see the driver move.
I would like to see you cover all bases befor you go down what may be the only path.....
the sound of these Apogees is one of a kind sound....but dont wont you to get turn off if all dose not go well....But that just ME....Have fun ...good luck
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