Hi.
I have these Tannoy "System 1000" speakers from a friend on my desk with blown HF (high frequency, "tweeters") drivers.
The first time only one HF driver went bad so I replaced it with a new one that my friend bought on ebay for US$75,-- + s&h.
Now with both drivers blown I asked him to bring his power amp to check if anything might be wrong with it. Well, it was set in "mono bridge" mode. I'm not sure if this means anything, but this time I tried to fix the HF drivers by myself.
On the 1st driver, I carefully detached the windings from the coil (19 windings, to be exact, no continuity measured) and replaced them with a new piece of wire and glued it in place (again 19 windings or 1,61 meter, this time 4,5 ohms measured, same as on the woofers). And the driver actually worked!
ADVISE: DON'T TRY THIS OUTSIDE OF A SOUND-PROVE ENCLOSURE. CURSING MAY DRIVE YOUR NEIGHBORS WILD AND CRAZY.
On the 2nd driver, when I tried to (carefully) detach the windings from the coil (small rectangular plastic band bonded around the diaphragm) it itself got detached.
And here is my question: Is there a special secret way to reattach this plastic band around the diaphragm?
And what type/kind of readily available glue would you suggest?
To hold the wire in place I used "LOCTIDE Super Gel Bonder" (slow curing super glue). But since there is a tension on the plastic band that pushes it open, this glue won't work here. Regular super glue won't work either because its to aggressive and gets too hard in an instance.
Thanks in advance for any help.
I have these Tannoy "System 1000" speakers from a friend on my desk with blown HF (high frequency, "tweeters") drivers.
The first time only one HF driver went bad so I replaced it with a new one that my friend bought on ebay for US$75,-- + s&h.
Now with both drivers blown I asked him to bring his power amp to check if anything might be wrong with it. Well, it was set in "mono bridge" mode. I'm not sure if this means anything, but this time I tried to fix the HF drivers by myself.
On the 1st driver, I carefully detached the windings from the coil (19 windings, to be exact, no continuity measured) and replaced them with a new piece of wire and glued it in place (again 19 windings or 1,61 meter, this time 4,5 ohms measured, same as on the woofers). And the driver actually worked!
ADVISE: DON'T TRY THIS OUTSIDE OF A SOUND-PROVE ENCLOSURE. CURSING MAY DRIVE YOUR NEIGHBORS WILD AND CRAZY.
On the 2nd driver, when I tried to (carefully) detach the windings from the coil (small rectangular plastic band bonded around the diaphragm) it itself got detached.
And here is my question: Is there a special secret way to reattach this plastic band around the diaphragm?
And what type/kind of readily available glue would you suggest?
To hold the wire in place I used "LOCTIDE Super Gel Bonder" (slow curing super glue). But since there is a tension on the plastic band that pushes it open, this glue won't work here. Regular super glue won't work either because its to aggressive and gets too hard in an instance.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Make yourself a jig. Sand down a piece of dowel held in a pillar drill so it's a tight fit in the good voice coil former, round the end off so it fits in the dome, then hold the split voice coil former onto the dowel with rubber bands whilst you glue. Then you can use the dowel to rotate the VCF whilst you wind the new VC.
I finally recoiled both HF drivers. After rebuilding the 1st one, the 2nd wasn't that hard. Although both sound slightly different I prefer to leave them the way they are.
I still have one doubt: One driver measures 4.5 ohms and sounds slightly louder than the other one that measures 4.0 ohms. That's aprox. 12.5%. Shouldn't it be the opposite?
I still have one doubt: One driver measures 4.5 ohms and sounds slightly louder than the other one that measures 4.0 ohms. That's aprox. 12.5%. Shouldn't it be the opposite?
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