Hello all! Just registered so that I could ask some questions on this thread. Sorry I have not had a chance to read/search through all 200 pages 
but I've tried to do as much research as much as I could beforehand.
I'm currently restoring my first ever Acoustats, a Model 2 with MK-121-2 interfaces, the early version with oak bases and white cloth (they have really bad cloths, chipped laminate bases, and pretty rusty interfaces). I'm betting if anyone is capable of answering these, it's here. Huge thanks in advance, here goes:
1. What was the original "oak" laminate finish called and who was the manufacturer? The closest I've found so far is Wilsonart Solar Oak. I'm waiting to receive some Formica samples as well. (Seriously impressed if anyone knows this lol)
2. Where can original grill cloths/socks be obtained this day? Unfortunately, I tried emailing renjenson@cox.net but the email is no longer active.
3. Probably a silly question but what is the best method for removing rust from the interfaces without disassembling all of the components. It appears I would have to desolder some things to fully get them out, so trying to avoid that if possible.
Huge thanks for your help, hoping I can get these refurbished to 100% original. Cheers
but I've tried to do as much research as much as I could beforehand.I'm currently restoring my first ever Acoustats, a Model 2 with MK-121-2 interfaces, the early version with oak bases and white cloth (they have really bad cloths, chipped laminate bases, and pretty rusty interfaces). I'm betting if anyone is capable of answering these, it's here. Huge thanks in advance, here goes:
1. What was the original "oak" laminate finish called and who was the manufacturer? The closest I've found so far is Wilsonart Solar Oak. I'm waiting to receive some Formica samples as well. (Seriously impressed if anyone knows this lol)
2. Where can original grill cloths/socks be obtained this day? Unfortunately, I tried emailing renjenson@cox.net but the email is no longer active.
3. Probably a silly question but what is the best method for removing rust from the interfaces without disassembling all of the components. It appears I would have to desolder some things to fully get them out, so trying to avoid that if possible.
Huge thanks for your help, hoping I can get these refurbished to 100% original. Cheers
Welcome breakfastipa! I can answer #2.
The Upholstery Company no longer stocks the fabric. I talked to Shirley, (Ren's wife) and she said the need for these dropped to a point that they couldn't keep stocking the expensive fabric.
I found my fabric, after much research, at Parts Express. You need to use a double knit, acoustically transparent fabric.
Mellotone Premium Black Speaker Grill Cloth Yard 64" Wide
Fortunately for me, my daughter-in-law is a seamstress (by hobby), so she was able to cut and sew these for me. They came out even better than the original covers.
The Upholstery Company no longer stocks the fabric. I talked to Shirley, (Ren's wife) and she said the need for these dropped to a point that they couldn't keep stocking the expensive fabric.
I found my fabric, after much research, at Parts Express. You need to use a double knit, acoustically transparent fabric.
Mellotone Premium Black Speaker Grill Cloth Yard 64" Wide
Fortunately for me, my daughter-in-law is a seamstress (by hobby), so she was able to cut and sew these for me. They came out even better than the original covers.
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If anyone else is looking for AT material to re-cover Acoustats, on AVS Forums (avsforum.com), there's a thread on testing materials to cosider for DIY AT screens:
Acoustic Transparency of Spandex - The Truth - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Acoustic Transparency of Spandex - The Truth - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Thanks, I ended up ordering these last week: Speaker Grill Cloth White Yard 70" Wide
I'm not sure if these will be too thin? I did not realize the Acoustat cloth was much thicker.
Is there another I should look for that's available in USA?
I'm not sure if these will be too thin? I did not realize the Acoustat cloth was much thicker.
Is there another I should look for that's available in USA?
Also, is there a way to remove the diaphragm from the speaker bases on my early Model 2s? I removed all 6 screws from underneath the bases but they do not appear to be separating, and I don't want to force anything.
The speaker cloth appears to be wrapped around the bottom of the diaphragm.
The speaker cloth appears to be wrapped around the bottom of the diaphragm.
Parts Express sent me a sample of that same fabric that you linked to above. It was very see through. It's a single knit and not very heavy. Actually I was unimpressed with that style. Maybe you will have better luck.
I think you're referring to the frame attached to the base panel. They are glued as well as screwed together as my Model 3 are also with the grill cloth sandwiched in between. I take it you want to remove the cloth. I suppose that's why later models' grill cloth cover the base panel. It appears you either have to cut the cloth off or break apart the frame from the base.
As I mentioned in your thread on AK, I used an upholstery shampoo machine with heavy duty carpet cleaner and added stain remover. They cleaned up like new. They are otherwise in great shape. I would not attempt to disassemble the frame to replace the cloth. Instead I would carefully cut it off with a very sharp utility (OLFA) knife as deeply, while pulling on it, as I can, in the sandwich. The remainder will pull back in deeply(hopefully, but probably adequately regardless). Now you have a groove to push the new cloth into with a 2" putty knife. Alene's Original Tacky Glue would work great applied sparingly on the area. It will allow you to remove and replace/adjust the cloth indefinitely til you get it right.
Actually, the frame and base came apart rather easily, I used a flat metal knife and after I removed one more screw that was hiding which was preventing them from separating, they slid apart without issue and there was no glue on the bottom. Just removed all of the staples top and bottom, easy to fit the new cloths now and restaple : )
Fabulous! But did yours have the 1"X1" brace extending out of the frame into the base and glued at both sides? That's what stopped me.
Ok guys, through some insane efforts of googling, I might have found the original Acoustat grill cloths. DMD Acoustic Fabric - Acoustimac
DMD in the Stone colorway for the "white" option.
Can anyone help confirm?
DMD in the Stone colorway for the "white" option.
Can anyone help confirm?
From The Audio Circuit:
While I could not find the DMD line on Guilford's site, I found them at the link in my previous post.
While I could not find the DMD line on Guilford's site, I found them at the link in my previous post.
That looks like the right color. So does the weave.Ok guys, through some insane efforts of googling, I might have found the original Acoustat grill cloths. DMD Acoustic Fabric - Acoustimac
DMD in the Stone colorway for the "white" option.
Can anyone help confirm?
FREE Acoustat 2+2 bases
Hey guys! I have a pair of gloss black bases for the original Acoustat 2+2's. These are in horrible cosmetic condition. Many scratches, chips, small missing pieces of trim and they got water damaged.
However, they are fully 100% functional. I used them for 6-7 months while I was doing all the work of my 2+2's. They could be used as templates for new ones.
And...they are FREE! Just cover the shipping and they're yours.
Hey guys! I have a pair of gloss black bases for the original Acoustat 2+2's. These are in horrible cosmetic condition. Many scratches, chips, small missing pieces of trim and they got water damaged.
However, they are fully 100% functional. I used them for 6-7 months while I was doing all the work of my 2+2's. They could be used as templates for new ones.
And...they are FREE! Just cover the shipping and they're yours.
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They were two types of bases & frams on the 2+2s....the ones here are the first ones..i have had both ..if you look at the base... here in the pic, you well see the top wood panels an peaces of wood frame not in the pic.... set in a rounded out...I well call it a slot...look at what the 4 panels an the wood frame set on....what may be a 1/4" a around the outside of the slot ...even thought there a thin peace of medal than gos across the bottem of the wood panel frame.....all the wate of the upper frame an panels set over the holo slot....the panel wire come out the bottem on this type 2+2...
The fix I have done to get better sound....is to put wood to fill in the slot up level with the 1/4" cut ...so it fell in the slot more ....leve only a 2" full slot in the middle for the wires..thats all that's needed...this give a better base for the wood frame an the 4 panels to set on....also I did Not put the metal peace back on the bottem of the upper frame...I put wood screws in the wood...to my ears ...the sound is much titer... better image,tone an bass output....an sound more like the newer 2+2 type...
Newer type 2+2 with the small MK121 interfaces... the wires come out the back..theres no slot under the panels an wood frame..an theres a 1"X 8"peaces of wood that gos across the bottem back behind the panels....this is were the top upper frame mounts to the interfeaces....an base...these 2+2s sound diff than the older ones... better bass...maybe because the wood behind the panels at the bottem..that's not there on the first all open type frames..makes a type box the panels play aganist ...an the solid base that the upper panels an frame set on...a all over heaver wood frame also..
All just one mans Quest for the best sound out of one of the best ESL speakers ever made...
The fix I have done to get better sound....is to put wood to fill in the slot up level with the 1/4" cut ...so it fell in the slot more ....leve only a 2" full slot in the middle for the wires..thats all that's needed...this give a better base for the wood frame an the 4 panels to set on....also I did Not put the metal peace back on the bottem of the upper frame...I put wood screws in the wood...to my ears ...the sound is much titer... better image,tone an bass output....an sound more like the newer 2+2 type...
Newer type 2+2 with the small MK121 interfaces... the wires come out the back..theres no slot under the panels an wood frame..an theres a 1"X 8"peaces of wood that gos across the bottem back behind the panels....this is were the top upper frame mounts to the interfeaces....an base...these 2+2s sound diff than the older ones... better bass...maybe because the wood behind the panels at the bottem..that's not there on the first all open type frames..makes a type box the panels play aganist ...an the solid base that the upper panels an frame set on...a all over heaver wood frame also..
All just one mans Quest for the best sound out of one of the best ESL speakers ever made...
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![DSCN0959[2].JPG](/community/data/attachments/619/619468-1e2e9eebc85cc07e0ee4a47024fa03cb.jpg)
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It's been a while but I am back in the Acoustat fold after a 19 year sabbatical. My new-to-me Spectra 22 are going through their "pre-flight" after being stored in boxes for who knows how long.
First obstacle... "they didn't come with chords (sic)" so said their previous caretaker. I borrowed a 15VAC supply from a turntable and attached a 3.5mm mono plug to use for a bias supply. Job done. Maybe not. There is a sticker on each MK-2123 above the female 3.5mm socket that reads:
12-15 VAC
15-20 VDC
100mA
Interesting. Are the "chords" supposed to supply both AC and DC? Maybe 15VAC with a DC offset? Perhaps there a DC powered oscillator inside the 2123 box to feed a charge pump? I do not have a schematic for the MK-2123 and haven't opened the boxes yet. Anyway I decided to post here before I plug my turntable supply in.
Third item: I need to re-attach the interfaces and tilt brackets as the speakers are "wobbly". Hopefully t-nuts were used by the factory during assembly so the speakers can be tightened up easily. The speakers are nearly flawless cosmetically and I would like to replace the nice black 1/4-20x0.5 phillips head button/oval head cap screws that have been chewed up a bit. Anyone happen to know a source for these? This is not common hardware in my area.
Lastly, while I have the interface boxes off are there any "must do" checks that you suggest be done before attempting to wake up the 22s?
First obstacle... "they didn't come with chords (sic)" so said their previous caretaker. I borrowed a 15VAC supply from a turntable and attached a 3.5mm mono plug to use for a bias supply. Job done. Maybe not. There is a sticker on each MK-2123 above the female 3.5mm socket that reads:
12-15 VAC
15-20 VDC
100mA
Interesting. Are the "chords" supposed to supply both AC and DC? Maybe 15VAC with a DC offset? Perhaps there a DC powered oscillator inside the 2123 box to feed a charge pump? I do not have a schematic for the MK-2123 and haven't opened the boxes yet. Anyway I decided to post here before I plug my turntable supply in.
Third item: I need to re-attach the interfaces and tilt brackets as the speakers are "wobbly". Hopefully t-nuts were used by the factory during assembly so the speakers can be tightened up easily. The speakers are nearly flawless cosmetically and I would like to replace the nice black 1/4-20x0.5 phillips head button/oval head cap screws that have been chewed up a bit. Anyone happen to know a source for these? This is not common hardware in my area.
Lastly, while I have the interface boxes off are there any "must do" checks that you suggest be done before attempting to wake up the 22s?