Like i have said before i don't know much in diy but i know that the Caddock MS-322 resistors in my Acoustat's are also expensive $65.00 each compared to what they replaced there was a difference most of the time you get what you pay for the Audience Auricaps are not bad either at least to me, first Acoustat was a good product with 1980 parts it is even a better one today with much better parts.
Thanks again Bear - That did it. A single stink bug got in there at about the place it was ticking. Very strange. But it was like a hunk of pop corn.
I wonder how Acoustats will work on flys? Zap!
Hi Guys,
Wow. I have been slowly working on upgrading my Spectra 6600's for a few years now. I had no idea this thread was going on. I could have used you
I am at the point where I have ordered custom resistors to re-do my interfaces. I believe I bought the caddocks you mentioned, MrAcoustat (it was a long time ago that I ordered them, and I'm working at sea right now so I can't check).
I want to precision match them. For this task, I bought an old M3 LCRZ kit and have built it and it works.
I bought more resistors than I needed to get the job done, so that I could precision-match them with the M3 meter.
So I am learning how to do testing to the resolution levels that the M3 offers me. I have to make a custom jig in order to keep measurements consistent.
What I would REALLY like to do is burn these resistors in before testing. These are the resistors in the high voltage part of the circuit. However, who has a 5kV power supply, and who would WANT one?! Yikes.
For you dudes out there who have done a lot of component burn-in and matching before, would I get the majority of the burn-in results by burning them in at 120V for a few days before measuring them? Or should I just accept that I won't be able to measure the drift because I can't get close to 5kV in a burning rack?
All the best,
ccm
Wow. I have been slowly working on upgrading my Spectra 6600's for a few years now. I had no idea this thread was going on. I could have used you
I am at the point where I have ordered custom resistors to re-do my interfaces. I believe I bought the caddocks you mentioned, MrAcoustat (it was a long time ago that I ordered them, and I'm working at sea right now so I can't check).
I want to precision match them. For this task, I bought an old M3 LCRZ kit and have built it and it works.
I bought more resistors than I needed to get the job done, so that I could precision-match them with the M3 meter.
So I am learning how to do testing to the resolution levels that the M3 offers me. I have to make a custom jig in order to keep measurements consistent.
What I would REALLY like to do is burn these resistors in before testing. These are the resistors in the high voltage part of the circuit. However, who has a 5kV power supply, and who would WANT one?! Yikes.
For you dudes out there who have done a lot of component burn-in and matching before, would I get the majority of the burn-in results by burning them in at 120V for a few days before measuring them? Or should I just accept that I won't be able to measure the drift because I can't get close to 5kV in a burning rack?
All the best,
ccm
Hi Guys,
Wow. I have been slowly working on upgrading my Spectra 6600's for a few years now. I had no idea this thread was going on. I could have used you
I am at the point where I have ordered custom resistors to re-do my interfaces. I believe I bought the caddocks you mentioned, MrAcoustat (it was a long time ago that I ordered them, and I'm working at sea right now so I can't check).
I want to precision match them. For this task, I bought an old M3 LCRZ kit and have built it and it works.
I bought more resistors than I needed to get the job done, so that I could precision-match them with the M3 meter.
So I am learning how to do testing to the resolution levels that the M3 offers me. I have to make a custom jig in order to keep measurements consistent.
What I would REALLY like to do is burn these resistors in before testing. These are the resistors in the high voltage part of the circuit. However, who has a 5kV power supply, and who would WANT one?! Yikes.
For you dudes out there who have done a lot of component burn-in and matching before, would I get the majority of the burn-in results by burning them in at 120V for a few days before measuring them? Or should I just accept that I won't be able to measure the drift because I can't get close to 5kV in a burning rack?
All the best,
ccm
Ok Paul sent you Jocelyn's e-mail address the resistors are Caddocks MS-322 and the caps are Audience Auricaps 5000 volts. http://www.caddock.com/online_catalog/Mrktg_Lit/TypeMS.pdf
Hi,
While looking for something else, I wandering into this forum and discovered this thread, so after joining up, here is my Acoustat experience:
I bought my first Acoustat, the Model X, in 1978, then 2 years later upgraded it to a Monitor 4. Did a number of Servo amp mods and lots of repairs. One interesting episode was trying some tantalum caps. One burst, and made a sound like the world was coming to an end ! I ran back behind the speakers to see the most beautiful purple glow from the splashed electrolytic inside the amp cage. I would have liked to watch it for longer, but...
Too many breakdowns, running out of replacement transformers, and my then wife's distain for huge speakers sent them to storage, and later into a black hole of an audio hoarder
In 1995, single again, I bought a pair of Spectra 1100's, and proceeded to mod them too. A polypropylene cap in the interface input was amazing !, I drove them with 2 ARC D52-'d' s (my upgrade mods) each sitting on top of the woofer boxes, behind the panel, vertically bi-amped. Later, doing party duty on my back porch, they both suffered woofer destruction, due to a bad receiver, or maybe temperature variations, not 100% sure. That promoted some research into replacement drivers, and the results are here.
In 2001 I obtained my current Spectra 3300's, and am very happy with them especially with the assist of two Velodyne 12" subs. At one point I experimented with both the 3300 and 1100 (panel only) running together. It was very nice, but impractical in my smallish living room. I still miss the overall sound of the my old Monitor 4's with the Servo amps
I have been using a Marsh A400S 200 watt MOSFET amp with my 3300's, but noticed that a few recordings (Gladiator Soundtrack), could clip the amp on some energetic passages, so I tried an Adcom 5800 (Nelson Pass design) and now I can clip the panels, but not the amp ! The Adcom 5800 is great at driving larger Acoustats, but runs hot and spins my electric meter.
I noticed some discussion of 1+1's lack of bass response, and I wonder why not add side baffles to reduce bass cancellation ? There is lots of info on dipole speaker systems on the web...
Dave
While looking for something else, I wandering into this forum and discovered this thread, so after joining up, here is my Acoustat experience:
I bought my first Acoustat, the Model X, in 1978, then 2 years later upgraded it to a Monitor 4. Did a number of Servo amp mods and lots of repairs. One interesting episode was trying some tantalum caps. One burst, and made a sound like the world was coming to an end ! I ran back behind the speakers to see the most beautiful purple glow from the splashed electrolytic inside the amp cage. I would have liked to watch it for longer, but...
Too many breakdowns, running out of replacement transformers, and my then wife's distain for huge speakers sent them to storage, and later into a black hole of an audio hoarder
In 1995, single again, I bought a pair of Spectra 1100's, and proceeded to mod them too. A polypropylene cap in the interface input was amazing !, I drove them with 2 ARC D52-'d' s (my upgrade mods) each sitting on top of the woofer boxes, behind the panel, vertically bi-amped. Later, doing party duty on my back porch, they both suffered woofer destruction, due to a bad receiver, or maybe temperature variations, not 100% sure. That promoted some research into replacement drivers, and the results are here.
In 2001 I obtained my current Spectra 3300's, and am very happy with them especially with the assist of two Velodyne 12" subs. At one point I experimented with both the 3300 and 1100 (panel only) running together. It was very nice, but impractical in my smallish living room. I still miss the overall sound of the my old Monitor 4's with the Servo amps
I have been using a Marsh A400S 200 watt MOSFET amp with my 3300's, but noticed that a few recordings (Gladiator Soundtrack), could clip the amp on some energetic passages, so I tried an Adcom 5800 (Nelson Pass design) and now I can clip the panels, but not the amp ! The Adcom 5800 is great at driving larger Acoustats, but runs hot and spins my electric meter.
I noticed some discussion of 1+1's lack of bass response, and I wonder why not add side baffles to reduce bass cancellation ? There is lots of info on dipole speaker systems on the web...
Dave
Hi Dave i have owned Acoustat's since 1984 Spectra 22s & 33s - 2+2s - and this is my third pair of 1+1s i live in a condo i also don't listend to my music loud so for ME the 1+1s are enough BUT if you like more volume go for the 2+2s or even better if you have the ROOM the 6s -Spectra 66s or 6600s dollar for dollar you cannot beat them in 28 years with 6 different pairs of Acoustat's i never had a problem BUT i also always had very good amplification if you wish you may see photos of different Acoustat's ALL rebuilt by my friend Jocelyn from Quebec Canada in my Flickr photo galery 12 pages of audio gear for you to enjoy Thank's MrAcoustat André Sévigny.
What a great thread! I've been enjoying my Spectra 2200s for almost a decade now. I drive them with a Sunfire amp with numerous capacitor upgrades. Due it its unique design, the Sunfire is virtually immune to any exotic load a speaker can throw at it. The original literature shows a Sunfire pumping a kilowatt into the amp-killing Apogee Scintilla speaker. The amp also runs stone cold most of the time.
I agree with Speedracer about tilting the speakers. When I first got the 2200s, they sounded a bit thin and reedy to me. Eventually I noticed that if I sat very tall in the couch the speakers sounded much better. I put some spools of thread under the back of each speaker to tilt them down so they are pointing at my listening position. They sound much more full and lifelike. I presumed that the speakers were designed to be used in BIG rooms and the main axis of sound was originally going over my head. Now it sounds like I'm hearing the flattest fullest response from the stats.
My old apartment had high ceilings and the Spectras would at times do their ventriloquist act on some music. Sound would appear to be coming from the back of the room even though I had no speakers there. i guess it was that magic backwave bouncing around the place.
I still delight in how quick and detailed these speakers are. I wouldn't part with them though I fear they won't last forever.
I agree with Speedracer about tilting the speakers. When I first got the 2200s, they sounded a bit thin and reedy to me. Eventually I noticed that if I sat very tall in the couch the speakers sounded much better. I put some spools of thread under the back of each speaker to tilt them down so they are pointing at my listening position. They sound much more full and lifelike. I presumed that the speakers were designed to be used in BIG rooms and the main axis of sound was originally going over my head. Now it sounds like I'm hearing the flattest fullest response from the stats.
My old apartment had high ceilings and the Spectras would at times do their ventriloquist act on some music. Sound would appear to be coming from the back of the room even though I had no speakers there. i guess it was that magic backwave bouncing around the place.
I still delight in how quick and detailed these speakers are. I wouldn't part with them though I fear they won't last forever.
Have no fear Robert, nothing much can go wrong with Acoustat's they are almost undestructable my 1+1s are from 1984 yes they have been modified but the panels are ORIGINALS with mods i agree but still the same mylar and the same coating if you take good care of them they will take good care of you. André
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I have an opportunity to buy a pair of Acoustat Spectra 11 for about $400 which seems like a reasonable price (at least here in Sweden). I've never owned a pair of electrostats, only listened to Martin Logans in a store and I like the sound. The owner says they are in good shape, but has never played them, so I don't think I'll be able to try them out before buying.
What do you think, is it stupid of me to buy them without listening to them? What should I look for when checking them out? Can you remove the fabric protection and examine the ESL panels?
My room is about 200 square feet and I'll be using woofers for the low end. I have some acoustic dampening. Will the speakers work fine in my room?
I'm very grateful for any tips!
What do you think, is it stupid of me to buy them without listening to them? What should I look for when checking them out? Can you remove the fabric protection and examine the ESL panels?
My room is about 200 square feet and I'll be using woofers for the low end. I have some acoustic dampening. Will the speakers work fine in my room?
I'm very grateful for any tips!
Acoustat 11
Just see if thay play!....
i would pay $50.Us...if you can,t play them...
if the bias dose not work the speakers ESL panels will not work...thay have two have to wal-tranfourmers...one for each speakers... this is how the speakers ESL panels chargs-up... frist pic is the tranfourmer/bias box on the back..this is were the bias tranfourmers come in from the wall Not in the pic...
No.2 pic is the base driver...I have had a pr back in the 90s...there sound is good...an well work in your room
goodluck
Just see if thay play!....
i would pay $50.Us...if you can,t play them...
if the bias dose not work the speakers ESL panels will not work...thay have two have to wal-tranfourmers...one for each speakers... this is how the speakers ESL panels chargs-up... frist pic is the tranfourmer/bias box on the back..this is were the bias tranfourmers come in from the wall Not in the pic...
No.2 pic is the base driver...I have had a pr back in the 90s...there sound is good...an well work in your room
goodluck
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phazer99,
I had/have a pair of Acoustat 1100's and have some information about them posted here:
Acoustat Spectra 1100 info
It could help you if you run into problems.
Also, I did quite a few mods on mine, before I upgraded to 3300's. Scroll down the page to see:
Dave's Audio Upgrades and Mods
I had/have a pair of Acoustat 1100's and have some information about them posted here:
Acoustat Spectra 1100 info
It could help you if you run into problems.
Also, I did quite a few mods on mine, before I upgraded to 3300's. Scroll down the page to see:
Dave's Audio Upgrades and Mods
Thanks guys.
I will be able to try them with my own amp, a Denon AVR-1611, so that's nice. My worry is that the amp is a bit weak for the speakers, it's rated at 75 W @ 8 ohm and 110 W @ 6 ohms. I will use active subs below about 100 Hz. I usually don't play very loud. What do you think?
Also, since there is high voltage involved, are there any risk of electric shock when touching the panels?
Do you have any recommendations regarding transportation (in car)? I assume disassembling them before transport is recommended.
I will be able to try them with my own amp, a Denon AVR-1611, so that's nice. My worry is that the amp is a bit weak for the speakers, it's rated at 75 W @ 8 ohm and 110 W @ 6 ohms. I will use active subs below about 100 Hz. I usually don't play very loud. What do you think?
Also, since there is high voltage involved, are there any risk of electric shock when touching the panels?
Do you have any recommendations regarding transportation (in car)? I assume disassembling them before transport is recommended.
phazer99,
I think they are well worth the $400. They are more of a polite sound, and don't have the seamless bass of a full range stat, but as good or better then some Martin Logans.
I first drove mine with a pair of Adcom 60 watt amps, then 2 ARC D-52ds (my rebuild), both in a vertical bi-amp configuration to supply plenty of power to the system. Something you may want to consider. I think your 75watt amp is a good start, it will work reasonably well, but there's room for improvement.
Don't worry about shocks from the panels, they are very well insulated, but when removing the interface panel, it's possible to touch the low current, high voltage bias supply, so make sure that the speakers are disconnected for a 1/2 hour or so before opening.
To get at the actual electrostatic panels you would have to pry off the side and top trim strips, and then pull off the cloth sock. The trim strips (on mine) have staples hidden under a metal strip. Not something you want to mess with very often.
The 11/1100's are quite cumbersome beasts, with a lot of weight in the woofer boxes, and the long, light, panels. To move them, I would remove the interface panel, and then the lower bolts on the panel supports, which will seperate the speaker into: the panel, interface assembly, and woofer box. Before you pull the panel wires out of the interface circuit card, take a picture, so you will be confident in how to put them back together. They're color coded, but you'll feel better
I think they are well worth the $400. They are more of a polite sound, and don't have the seamless bass of a full range stat, but as good or better then some Martin Logans.
I first drove mine with a pair of Adcom 60 watt amps, then 2 ARC D-52ds (my rebuild), both in a vertical bi-amp configuration to supply plenty of power to the system. Something you may want to consider. I think your 75watt amp is a good start, it will work reasonably well, but there's room for improvement.
Don't worry about shocks from the panels, they are very well insulated, but when removing the interface panel, it's possible to touch the low current, high voltage bias supply, so make sure that the speakers are disconnected for a 1/2 hour or so before opening.
To get at the actual electrostatic panels you would have to pry off the side and top trim strips, and then pull off the cloth sock. The trim strips (on mine) have staples hidden under a metal strip. Not something you want to mess with very often.
The 11/1100's are quite cumbersome beasts, with a lot of weight in the woofer boxes, and the long, light, panels. To move them, I would remove the interface panel, and then the lower bolts on the panel supports, which will seperate the speaker into: the panel, interface assembly, and woofer box. Before you pull the panel wires out of the interface circuit card, take a picture, so you will be confident in how to put them back together. They're color coded, but you'll feel better
One quick note, if you go to test them, make sure you have them charging up for at least half an hour, or the panels will sound very dull. This is normal, the caps take a while to charge up from those little wall warts. Under normal use, you'll keep them plugged in all the time (they don't draw any more from the wall than a phone), and this won't be an issue, but if the seller hasn't had them plugged in for awhile, the panels will take some time to fully charge up. I went from Martin Logan Sequel 2s, to Acoustat Spectra 11s... for me, in my room, that was a significant improvement. For $400, you will be getting a real bargain!