I don't think it's possible to make generalizations about grille sock size - too much depends on the properties of the particular fabric being used.
To get a proper fit around the circumference, I would suggest using a piece of fabric at least one foot wide, and stretch it around the perimeter of the speaker to get the exact dimension necessary for a reasonably taut final size.
Length is much less critical, since you'll be cutting off the extra after you staple the new cloth into place. I would allow at least 6" top and bottom (i.e. 12" total) to make sure you'll have enough fabric to grab and staple.
Not me, I love a good fight!But again, some folks prefer not to be challenged. For example, I declare ESLs have no justice unless driven directly, aka, Acoustat Servo-Charge. No comparison. Why no love? Weird.
Bump
Jrimer, I plan to replace my socks too. I found a thread on AVSForum wherein someone measured the acoustic transparency of various "Spandex" type fabrics. I sent for and received samples from the "winner" company. I'll make a note to get the sample envelope out and post the name of the company and I'll try to post a link to the AVS thread.
Seems that Milliskin Spandex was deemed the most acoustically transparent. I got samples from Spandex World - look nice. I you want to step out of the black and white box, the Kelly Green, Burgundy and Purple look very nice.
Spandex World - Milliskin Matte
Guys making acoustically transparent projection screens were stretching it 20% in both directions.
Spandex World - Milliskin Matte
Guys making acoustically transparent projection screens were stretching it 20% in both directions.
Hank, thanks for the reference and link !
My old OEM Ivory socks are dulled from age, and pilled from cats, and this is the first thing I can remember seeing that give me some hope for a replacement
But then there is the issue of the staples
I spent hours removing the (black) socks from a pair of Acoustat 1100's, by pulling the (literally) hundreds of heavy, back-to-back, staples from that dense wood product - A major chore ! The 3300's would be twice as difficult
That is unless someone has found an easier method. But even then, I'm concerned about driving new staples into that same hard wood, and then how to tension the new fabric vertically. It looked to me as if the 1100's socks were longer at install time and trimmed to the 'length' (height after being pulled taught and stapled.
Any one have tales of experiences removing and replacing Spectra socks ?
Dave A
Hank, thanks for the reference and link !
My old OEM Ivory socks are dulled from age, and pilled from cats, and this is the first thing I can remember seeing that give me some hope for a replacement
But then there is the issue of the staples
I spent hours removing the (black) socks from a pair of Acoustat 1100's, by pulling the (literally) hundreds of heavy, back-to-back, staples from that dense wood product - A major chore ! The 3300's would be twice as difficult
That is unless someone has found an easier method. But even then, I'm concerned about driving new staples into that same hard wood, and then how to tension the new fabric vertically. It looked to me as if the 1100's socks were longer at install time and trimmed to the 'length' (height after being pulled taught and stapled.
Any one have tales of experiences removing and replacing Spectra socks ?
Dave A
The procedure of installing grille socks at the factory was essentially the same for all models that used a tube of fabric. Stapled at the bottom, then stretched toward the top, making sure the seam was straight, and then stapled at the top. Cut-off excess fabric top and bottom. Apply any metal plates top and rear of speaker, making holes for screws as necessary. For the original fabric, a old soldering iron can be used to make the holes cleanly without any chance of runs or tearing later. For different fabric, try it first on a scrap piece.
Changing the grille sock on any of the Spectras that have the wood/metal strips up the side is an extra pain (Models 1100, 2200, 3300, 4400 and 6600). The wood strips must be removed first by prying them off the frames. The brass inlays should be removed (held on with double-faced tape) and discarded so that you can then remove the old pins and remnants of adhesive from the wood strips. Some refinishing of the wood strips may be necessary. After installing a new grille sock, the wood strips can be reapplied using small pins or brads. The resulting small nail holes can be filled with wood filler.
Unfortunately, I have yet to find a suitable replacement for the brass inlays (they were custom fabricated for Acoustat). I changed the grille socks on my Spectra 4400's a few years ago, and I suppose I've gotten used to the missing inlays. But I'd still be interested if someone found a solution!
How do you dismantle the Model 3 to remove the sock? Removing the reinforcing screws inside the base doesn't free up anything. It seems it's glued together and must be broken apart? TIA
I removed the trim strips (wood/brass) from one of my 3300's in prep to remove the sock (still waiting...), and comparing the one with OEM trim, and the one without, I prefered without - less busy, disappeared more into the room. So both are now sans-trim. My socks are Ivory, which might make a difference in how well the trim 'works' with the different colors of cloth
P.S. I wonder if you could find some metalic tape to replace the brass strips, in an Art Supplies store. They have lots of various striping tapes.
Dave A
I removed the trim strips (wood/brass) from one of my 3300's in prep to remove the sock (still waiting...), and comparing the one with OEM trim, and the one without, I prefered without - less busy, disappeared more into the room. So both are now sans-trim. My socks are Ivory, which might make a difference in how well the trim 'works' with the different colors of cloth
P.S. I wonder if you could find some metalic tape to replace the brass strips, in an Art Supplies store. They have lots of various striping tapes.
Dave A
Certainly, leaving the wood/brass trim off entirely is another option, and a lot less work. But I prefer the look of having it installed. I've looked at all sorts of woodworking edge-banding material, inlay strips, etc. The width of the channel is the issue - it's an odd dimension that does not seem to match any strip-type material that I've been able to find. I've even considered using some sort of decorative laminate (e.g. Formica) cut into strips, but likely that would involve buying a whole sheet for what would amount to only a few inches of material.
I told the Acoustat Marketing Dept. that the brass inlay would be impossible to replace and make for a much more difficult grille cloth charge, but they insisted on using it. I'll admit I like the looks of it, but my predictions have certainly come true.
The metal trim on my 6600 is a turquoise colour. Is this original from Acoustat?
Attachments
Yes, this is factory-original. The turquoise color you see is actually a very thin peel-off protective plastic film applied to the brass-plated steel inlay. It's purpose is to protect the lacquered surface of the inlay, and it's intended that the final user remove it to reveal the brass underneath. This is the same sort of protective film that one sees on electronic devices over displays and other easily scratched surfaces.
Since that film has been on there for so many years, it may not be as easy to remove as it was originally. So you can leave it alone if you like it, or you can try to grasp an edge at the top or bottom and peel it off. Originally, it would have peeled off easily as one long strip, but now it may come off in pieces and/or leave an adhesive residue. I can't say for sure because I've never tried removing one some 25 years after manufacture.
Thanks!
I like the colour as is. When I replaced the sock I had a really hard time lining up the nails on the trim to the holes. If I ever had to remove and replace I will just attach with double sided tape.
Gentlemen, I have a pair of Spectra 1100s that I've owned and enjoyed for a few years. I am now preparing to do some restoration work on them and have a few questions:
1. One of the speakers has the upper panel pretty much vertical. The other is tilted back a few degrees. Neither is loose. Both bases are fine and straight and plumb. Which is correct?
2. Is there a write-up or service manual somewhere (online) that shows the proper procedure to take them apart for inspection, cloth replacement, fixing the tilt issue above and/or other service?
Thanks for any help.
1. One of the speakers has the upper panel pretty much vertical. The other is tilted back a few degrees. Neither is loose. Both bases are fine and straight and plumb. Which is correct?
2. Is there a write-up or service manual somewhere (online) that shows the proper procedure to take them apart for inspection, cloth replacement, fixing the tilt issue above and/or other service?
Thanks for any help.
In reading through this thread I notice the idea of removing the felt dampening and replacing it with painter's tape has come up numerous times. Has anyone considered simply cutting holes in the felt? If the felt is just there to dampen the panels, but in the process obscures high end response, could some strategically placed cut outs (squares the size of several louvers even) allow the high frequencies to escape? Am I looking at this all wrong? I have waterjet cutters at work that can cut precision holes in the felt in any shape or size. Does anyone have thoughts on this or did I just open Pandora's Box?��
An owner's manual for the Spectra 1100 was recently posted in another thread entitled "Acoustat Spectra 1100 and Adcom".
There is no tilt feature on the Spectra 1100. Panels should be perpendicular to the floor. I suspect your speaker with the tilted panel was assembled incorrectly. Not sure how that could be done, as assembly is straightforward and (or so I thought) foolproof.