Acoustat Answer Man is here

My friend Jimmy was installing carpets in my home, looking at him working i said it realy looks easy to install his answer yes Andre after 20 years of doing the same thing it is real easy, my friend Jocelyn as been working with Acoustats for over 20 years and would also agree IF you don't know what your doing don't touch them.
 
How you doin' Andre? I miss you, your music sharing ♪ ♫

What is your friendliest audio forum nowadays? ...Besides diyAudio of course. :)

I like most forums that i participate but i like where there is lot's of traffic in english it's Canuck and in french it's Home Cinema cut down quite a bit not as much on forums anymore of course my love for Acoustars brings me here quite often.

PS: Hope everything is fine with you my friend.
 
Boy life moves fast....
1988....I had about a year in Audio sales... 80 year old man came in to the shop to hear a pr of Klipsch chorus speakers......
He Had heard good things about the chorus....
He had a pr of Acoustats X speaker to trade in....an when I come to his home I could take the Xs an stup the Chorus,es.....here what I saw at his house...
Some may have saw these on flebay.....
FlashBack...it a good thing
 

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9" PANEL

AA,
Great that you are here! I was a dealer back in the glory days (and still here after 40 yrs.) Toured the factory, met Jim and rest of team.
Reviving my 2+2's and have a bad panel, slight random popping (arcing?). We tried all options: vacuuming with cover off, banging, compressed air, and changed wiring from panel to panel to verify that problem is indeed in one particular panel. Any further ideas and/or sources?
TJG55
 
AA,
Great that you are here! I was a dealer back in the glory days (and still here after 40 yrs.) Toured the factory, met Jim and rest of team.
Reviving my 2+2's and have a bad panel, slight random popping (arcing?). We tried all options: vacuuming with cover off, banging, compressed air, and changed wiring from panel to panel to verify that problem is indeed in one particular panel. Any further ideas and/or sources?
TJG55

This condition is usually caused by some sort of foreign body (aka dirt) caught in the gap between diaphragm and stator. It could be dust, hair, bug parts, etc. It does seem that you've already tried all of the usual remedies. My only suggestion is to try them again, as sometimes that's necessary. I might also suggest temporarily removing the felt blocks on the offending panel, as they may be restricting the blast of compressed air. Also, be sure the panel is completely discharged during the process so that there isn't any static field
holding foreign particles.


The good news is that an occasional random tick or pop is not doing any damage to the speaker. This is not a hard arcing...more of a 'partial localized discharge'. Annoying yes, but not harmful. And although not likely, it's possible that this condition may go away on its own.

The only other recourse is to replace the panel. These frequently appear on eBay and other sites.
 
AA,
Thanks for the reply. Will repeat procedures but we have tried repeatedly. Would playing them possibly help?
TJG55

A resounding YES!

My own Spectra 4400's, which I resurrected after the previous owner stored them in an dusty warehouse, improved significantly after just a few days of play. I thoroughly cleaned them first, of course, but they still had the occasional 'tick'. Playing solved the problem completely and they've been quiet since. I leave the bias supply always on.
 
Just one more from Acoustats...

Jim Stricklands mind.....
Mosfet Amps this time ....3 have 90lb of transfourmers....30lb ea hehe
I just got these P7000... 2 weekes ago an have to say the longer I run them in... the better thay sound on my Apogee,Maggys.... an any speaker I put them on....
There sound ...buttery...sweet..like a 300 watt tube amps....

if you run a cross these Trans•nova/DIAMOND Pro amps....don't pass them up
I pic these up at $100.ea....lot
of fun....hoho

Trans•nova patented output stage configured for "power gain" allows simpler front end circuitry, dramatically lower cross talk
DIAMOND combines the linearity of Class A with the headroom of Class B; provides up to 14dB additional dynamic range in front end.
MOSFET Outputs offer higher output and optimal sound quality.
NOMAD smart protection circuitry that prevents sonic degradation and accurately computes allowable device current for device voltage.
LED Status allows you to monitor the operating status of each channel.
X-Card Plug Modules adjustable active crossovers.





P7000 SPECIFICATIONS

Power Rating:
350 Watts/channel @ 8 Ohms
500 Watts/channel @ 4 Ohms*
1000 Watts bridged/mono @ 8 Ohms*

Total Harmonic Distortion (THD): <0.2% (20Hz-20kHz)

Signal-to-Noise: 100dB "A" Weighted

Full Power Bandwidth: 0.2Hz to 100kHz (+0/--3dB)

Slew Rate: 100V/µs

CMRR (Common Mode Rejection Ratio): 75dB at 1kHz

Input Impedance: 47k Ohms per phase balanced

Gain: +15dB min. / +30dB max.

Input Sensitivity Range:
850mV to 4.75V (@ 8 Ohms) per phase balanced
700mV to 4V (@ 4 Ohms) per phase balanced

Damping Factor:
600 (to 1kHz)
200 (to 10kHz)
25 (to 100kHz)
 

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Hi Andy

A good friend has just bought a pair of 1100s. Unfortunately one of the speakers is not working correctly - there is no sound at all from the esl but the woofer is ok. He has swapped the panel over tho the "good" speaker and it thankfully is fine. He has also tried the wall supply and it's not that.
I'm going over to look in the next week or so - I guess there is a problem in the drive electronics somewhere. I'm not familiar with the design at all. Do they have a circuit like my Logan's that turn off the panel voltage when not no signal is present?

A bit like yourself I worked in pro audio for 20 years in test & dev , but now have a relatively boring job ! I miss the audio days

Any advice on where to start looking on these would be most grateful .

:)
 
Member
Joined 2005
Paid Member
Raymondo, my SPectra 11 went out a few months back after I did the Ultrasonic fix.

Audio Haven | Acoustat


It worked for a little while (couple weeks), but then one speaker stopped working. I swapped everything and confirmed it was the interface. i rechecked my work and had no issues. I was pulling my hair out until I swapped the OPAMP LM13080. That was it. These OPAMPS are very rare and was fortunate to find some on ebay - bought two, needed one, so I have one extra.

Try that - swap the known working one into bad interface. Note the positioning in socket. If it is problem, and you cannot locate a replacement let me know.

I know Andy said these rarely fail, and mine could have failed due to my Ultrasonic fix. Either way, hope this helps...
 
Do they have a circuit like my Logan's that turn off the panel voltage when not no signal is present?
No. HV supply is always on if wall supply is plugged in. (see attached schematic)

Any advice on where to start looking on these would be most grateful .

As a first step, check the DC supply voltage on the opamp(between pins 4 & 6).
This will confirm that the voltage regulator portion of the circuit is working.

As john65b mentioned, depending on the vintage of the speakers the ultrasonic "fix" documented by Andy may be what is required to get the supply working again if the voltage regulator part is working.


Some of the Spectra 11 bias supplies I repaired in the past had one of the following problems.
1) Severely corroded/failed solder joint on the HV bias resistor. Appeared to be caused by corona generation from end of wire sticking up out of the solder joint.

2) Aging 220uF electrolytic had built up enough internal resistance to keep the oscillator from working.
 

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AAM
have played panel for 4 days and no change. with increased volume or stronger bass, panel has bad flapping sound. ideas?
TJG

Without hearing or examining your speaker, and assuming that this is coming from only one panel in the set, I can only guess that a "bad flapping sound"
is caused by a serious loss of diaphragm tension or torn Mylar. If you've already tried re-tensioning the diaphragm with the application of heat, try it again with more heat. It's a natural tendency to apply too little heat in the interest of not melting the Mylar (which is possible) but most folks don't apply enough heat on the first attempts. Also give the panel a good visual inspection under strong light - tears and rips can be hard to see.

Also make sure the felt blocks on the rear of the panel are present and firmly attached. Their purpose is to squelch low frequency resonances, and their loss can cause symptoms as you describe.
 
if you run a cross these Trans•nova/DIAMOND Pro amps....don't pass them up
I pic these up at $100.ea....lot
of fun....hoho
)

About a week after i got my NAD 208, a guy 30 miles away from me had 5 of those Diamond pro amps up for sale.
Oh well, I am pretty happy with my NAD 208.
The guy was selling those amps for $800 each, my NAD 208 was $500 and I had a local guy recap it and fix cold joints, runs like a champ!
 
For over 10 years I have pulled the felt off the back...an put just paper tape ...panters tape!
Sounds great an it gives better highs...but I know it just in my head like all other mods I have done to the Acoustats panels I have come to hate....

As for the Trans•nova amps..By the way sound way diff from any NAD that I have ever heard...
Vary nice tube like sound ...I just wonted to see if I could hear what jim was doing diff..
All I can say is the MosFet mist.....is not there with these amps......it sounds vary close to the Pass labs class A Amps...
I well only run tubes amps with panels like ESL,Apogee,magnepans.....any SS amps must have fanes....never got better sound out of any SS till I moved over to noise fans...hehe ...gofig
 
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