My Martin Logan SL3 has the following problem:
Pops with a few seconds intervall. The sound in the panel is very weak but the base is normal.
I have vacuum cleaned the panel after having the power switch of for 24 hours.
I tried to open the backside but it's really stuck and I don't dare to use any excessive force.
So my questions are:
1 What is the problem?
2 How do I get inside without damage anything?
3 Does anybody have a picture and/or a schematics of the inside.
Pops with a few seconds intervall. The sound in the panel is very weak but the base is normal.
I have vacuum cleaned the panel after having the power switch of for 24 hours.
I tried to open the backside but it's really stuck and I don't dare to use any excessive force.
So my questions are:
1 What is the problem?
2 How do I get inside without damage anything?
3 Does anybody have a picture and/or a schematics of the inside.
That intermittent "pop" could be arcing. I shorted a panel once and it had similar symptoms. When I dismantled it I found several burned areas along the panel edges due to arcing. I ended up completely rebuilding the panel (recoated the stators and installed a new diaphragm). Mine isn't a Martin Logan though and I don't know how yours are assembled or wired up. Good luck with it.
Like Charlie mentioned, the repetitive pops are most likely arcing.
When the arc occurs it does induce a voltage transient into the whole panel so a lot of times it sounds like the pop is coming from the whole panel.
To locate the location of the arc, power up the speaker in a completely darkened room, or closet. Once your eyes have adapted to the dark, you should be able to see a small blue arc somewhere on the panel each time you hear a pop.
Once you know where the arcing is occurring, investigate the location with a magnifying glass; both front and back sides. Sometimes there is some small bit that has stuck to the edge of the foam tape spacers that the vacuum couldn't suck loose.
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dust
In my ESL sometimes collects dust. I always get rid of dust so: Blow it out of ESL carefully. My vacuum cleaner has input and output. Hose to exit the vacuum cleaner and blowing dust. Hose to wash the dust and dry. Compressed air from a cylinder is no good. Water condenses and falls into the ESL. Suitable for even the hand pump. To blow out at once - see the light from the HV discharge in absolute darkness. There blow once. The discharge will be lost. No fan included in ESL. Before you blow off!
In my ESL sometimes collects dust. I always get rid of dust so: Blow it out of ESL carefully. My vacuum cleaner has input and output. Hose to exit the vacuum cleaner and blowing dust. Hose to wash the dust and dry. Compressed air from a cylinder is no good. Water condenses and falls into the ESL. Suitable for even the hand pump. To blow out at once - see the light from the HV discharge in absolute darkness. There blow once. The discharge will be lost. No fan included in ESL. Before you blow off!
Hej P-A!
I have late model SL3. You might use a tool in one of the empty screw holes to pull the cover loose. Slight sideways force on the speaker terminals might work too. The cover is just stuck on the old seal. Worst case, you might need to push through the woofer hole.
Start your diagnosis by cleaning and re-connecting ALL the internal wire connections and push down on the 14-pin IC. If that doesn't help, then swap panels left to right to see if the problem is with the panel or the electronics. Let's see where that gets you.
I have late model SL3. You might use a tool in one of the empty screw holes to pull the cover loose. Slight sideways force on the speaker terminals might work too. The cover is just stuck on the old seal. Worst case, you might need to push through the woofer hole.
Start your diagnosis by cleaning and re-connecting ALL the internal wire connections and push down on the 14-pin IC. If that doesn't help, then swap panels left to right to see if the problem is with the panel or the electronics. Let's see where that gets you.
hi i have just repaired my martin logan aeruis i, i bought conductive coating from esr audio, what you need to to do with a knife be care full cut away at the sticky stuff at the top, and bottom, of the panel it is really easy. what you do next is get some distiled water and clean the panel until all the dirt comes off while you are waiting for the coating by post, then you mix the conductive coating with distiled water the type you put in car battery when it comes
I have had a similar problem. It was arcing, but it was happening in the wiring, and not on the actual panel. This will be hapening either between the power supply board and the panels or the transformer and the panels. Keep in mind that very lethal voltages are involved, so be careful. Either buy some rubber gloves, or be sure to keep one hand in your pocket at all times - is when the voltage travels from one hand to the other, ie across you chest, that you can get really hurt.
Per-anders, you must, in the future, consider that the folks on DiyAudio lays down a quite an amount of thinking to solve YOUR problem, and that it's interesting for us to know whether the problem is solved!!
I have had a similar problem with ML speakers and it was due to the strip of aluminum foil along the bottom of the membrane loosing contact with the conductive coating. This is where the static charge is transferred to the membrane.
To test if the static charge is not reaching the membrane you can borrow a static charge from the other panel by using a test wire with a flat metal tip. Be careful not to discharge against the stators. You do this while music is being played through the speakers.
To test if the static charge is not reaching the membrane you can borrow a static charge from the other panel by using a test wire with a flat metal tip. Be careful not to discharge against the stators. You do this while music is being played through the speakers.
I have actually zapped myself on my electrostats with more than 2000 volts, but only across my hand, never across my chest. Roger sanders, the designer from innersound and the inventor of the curved electrostatic panel told me that a shock from the power supply across the chest could stop your heart (he was helping me when I had an arcing problem). Besides designing speakers, he's also a medical doctor, so I took his advice.
In my case the arcing was happening very close to where the signal wires enter the panel.
In my case the arcing was happening very close to where the signal wires enter the panel.
Sorry to say, but this is really BAD ADVICE! DANGER!! DANGER!! ELECTROCUTION HAZARD!!
The maker of my stat told me quite emphatically do NOT go poking around when the stators are charged and especially when music is playing as there will be up to 6000v there to zap you!
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