The Rhino lining thing sounds promising if you could spray it on without filling the holes and control the thickness to, let's say, 10-20 mils. Too bad you didn't take home a piece of that perf metal stator material I had left over from my build but I guess we weren't thinking about it at the time. Anyway, can't wait to hear how that Rhino lining works.
10-20 mils should be no problem, i guess now would be the time to order the stators, same as yours Charlie, that way we all have a "control" your technique and another. Where do I order the stators from again? and how much do they cost USD?
if there is any over spray, it can b ground down to spec, just have to use a side grinder or something agressive, it is called, HARD LINER, if anyone wants to look it up, Rhino Worldwide Protection just look for hard liner and tell me what you think.
On another note with this, if there is any texture from over spray, will that have or effect the plastic element in any way?, over spray is only 5 mil at most, however it has a rough texture, not smooth and glossy. but like i said, can be trimmed or sanded..
I need some stators, who makes them again? Charlie?
if there is any over spray, it can b ground down to spec, just have to use a side grinder or something agressive, it is called, HARD LINER, if anyone wants to look it up, Rhino Worldwide Protection just look for hard liner and tell me what you think.
On another note with this, if there is any texture from over spray, will that have or effect the plastic element in any way?, over spray is only 5 mil at most, however it has a rough texture, not smooth and glossy. but like i said, can be trimmed or sanded..
I need some stators, who makes them again? Charlie?
My stators are 48" high but I don't know of a retail source. You could probably get 48x16 sheets from Just Real Music. What I recomeded to you are the 36X40 sheets from McMaster Carr, which I think would be fine--you could get a pair of stator per sheet. It is .48 thick, 51% open with .141 holes: McMaster-Carr:
McMaster-Carr
Emailed Mccaster, waiting on price. With that said, do I just cut in half? I so, which tool would be best? My fathher has a welding buddy, I'll call and see if he has scissor cutter.
and one more thing, if the spraying works, do i have to leave a spot clean for the copper tape? Charlie, is there anyway you can email me pic of the back of stator, a full pic if you can.the rounded edges has me a bit sonfused, I think I know, just need conformation,
There is so much to learn here and I am not asking stupid question or suggesting stupid answers, the rhino came up in my mind when Charlie told me some paint is conductive, time consuming, and alot of primer and paint. I think I have a rhino to do tomorrow, i will try and find some metal and try it, probally without holes, as it is first thing in the morning job, my target is 15 mil. wish me luck and I hope this works.
and one more thing, if the spraying works, do i have to leave a spot clean for the copper tape? Charlie, is there anyway you can email me pic of the back of stator, a full pic if you can.the rounded edges has me a bit sonfused, I think I know, just need conformation,
There is so much to learn here and I am not asking stupid question or suggesting stupid answers, the rhino came up in my mind when Charlie told me some paint is conductive, time consuming, and alot of primer and paint. I think I have a rhino to do tomorrow, i will try and find some metal and try it, probally without holes, as it is first thing in the morning job, my target is 15 mil. wish me luck and I hope this works.
If this post was referring to the diaphragm rather than to the stator coating, I think you might be confusing mils and microns. 12 mil is too thick for diaphragm material. The 0.0005" thick (half mil) stuff Charlie referred to is about 12 microns thick.
If is microns, my idea is burnt toast. going spray something anyway, my jaw just dropped, feeling a little dumber by the minute. I am still reading the cook book, trying my best to use what I have available aroud here, I live in a small town. With that said, I am waiting to hear from Maccaster, I do not want to screw this up.
tried posting a pic,
bump
tried posting a pic,
bump
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Just to be clear, "Mav," I'm referring to the diaphragm thickness and not to the stator coating thickness. I'm not saying there's a problem with a thicker stator coating (thicker can often be helpful); I'm just suggesting 12 mil thick diaphragm material is likely to have a hard time giving you the high frequency response you want.
Few
P.S. I'm having trouble with the files you posted.
Few
P.S. I'm having trouble with the files you posted.
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Mavric,
Maybe there is confusion. I was referring to the insulation coating on the stators when I suggested 10-20 "mils" (.010"-.020"). The Mylar diaphragm material I'm donating to your project is 12 microns thick (about .0005"). I would use a bandsaw with a sheet-metal blade to cut the stators (shears or tin snips may bend the metal). Also, the edges of he holes in the perf metal will be smooth on one side of the sheet and sharp on the other side--- the smooth side must face the diaphragm to prevent arcing. Also, you want to match the stators so that holes in the front and back stators line up perfectly.
Also, sand the sharp edges smooth and, when you apply the insulation coating (whatever you decide to use) make sure you get a good coating on the edges too-- the edges are the areas most prone to arcing. One last thing: the stators need to be very flat and they might not be when you get them-- if not, I have a buddy in Springfiled that can roll them flat for you after you trim them so size.
There is no need to email McMaster-Carr because you can order directly off their website and have it in two or three days. Did you get the parts list I PM'd you? It has all the part numbers on it.
Maybe there is confusion. I was referring to the insulation coating on the stators when I suggested 10-20 "mils" (.010"-.020"). The Mylar diaphragm material I'm donating to your project is 12 microns thick (about .0005"). I would use a bandsaw with a sheet-metal blade to cut the stators (shears or tin snips may bend the metal). Also, the edges of he holes in the perf metal will be smooth on one side of the sheet and sharp on the other side--- the smooth side must face the diaphragm to prevent arcing. Also, you want to match the stators so that holes in the front and back stators line up perfectly.
Also, sand the sharp edges smooth and, when you apply the insulation coating (whatever you decide to use) make sure you get a good coating on the edges too-- the edges are the areas most prone to arcing. One last thing: the stators need to be very flat and they might not be when you get them-- if not, I have a buddy in Springfiled that can roll them flat for you after you trim them so size.
There is no need to email McMaster-Carr because you can order directly off their website and have it in two or three days. Did you get the parts list I PM'd you? It has all the part numbers on it.
Sorry but I can't open either one of those files. I am using an older verison of DeltaCad that can't even open your drawing file and I don't have the software to open that folder you posted either. Anyway, hope you're having fun with it!
I found that program for free. I am not sure if it works w/vista. I just did a google search, cad 7.0 showed as free download after looking around. If there is a better version, sometimes older is better as we can compare results. I need to keep reading before I say anything more, i guess i might be too ambitious on this and like you said, "take your time." Have another long day at work, but thanks for everyone here, i guess thats why friends call me mavric.
They had the price but no shipping cost, I have had a long day and will check again. Have you had any luck on finding the step up transformers for the esls? and if so , what is the cost. its not even febuary and I am still anxious, but patient.
gonna take my camera to try and take some pics of the rhino, not looking good, but what the heck.
gonna take my camera to try and take some pics of the rhino, not looking good, but what the heck.
kindly check my last post marked as trannys. some good info. and cheap. still working on this project. but hpoefully found a solution to the stators, 2 months ago, I did know what a stator was, of step up transformer, the list goes on and on. Now i know, basic pricapals, so far its a hundred bucks worth of coil, and patience. I really think rhino or even lineX would be a great insulater for panels.
Thank you everyone here, espcially Charlie, I would have shut down this a long time ago. So i look forward, never behind, looking back puts where you were before, you started look forward. sounds stupid, i know. I am looking forward.
Thank you everyone here, espcially Charlie, I would have shut down this a long time ago. So i look forward, never behind, looking back puts where you were before, you started look forward. sounds stupid, i know. I am looking forward.
keep pushin on you won't be sorry,mavric!after researching and reading for quite a long time i had finaly got the courage to build my first prototype within a week or two and within a couple of months after a few trial and error versions i had come up with some thing that worked very well and was so impressed and proud of that even though there is always room for improvement threr didn't seem to be any reason to change the design.right off the bat they sounded excelent.at the time i had no job and spent $200 in trying different materials and my final 10"x22" panels cost less than $20! nothing could be more rewarding than that after waiting years of yurning to build a set. in 99 there wasn't that many diy'ers by the time i did it in 03.get my drift?so keep pushin on! jer
thaks very much for the support. On the other post i mentioned the list goes on, now i have or really need an electronic cross over for the stats, active and variable, my adcoms are only stable down to 4 ohm, so 500hz 24 db shut off is what i am looking for, any seller please PM me. otherwise, ebay is it.
Untill, i get everything together, i will try and post in the right places, have not been on this site long, so still learning. thanks
Untill, i get everything together, i will try and post in the right places, have not been on this site long, so still learning. thanks
wow, such a fast responce! Charlie and I are going to make our own, i hope, trying to save $$, just a punch board and schematics, compare it to what he allready haves in his possesion, just make a copy.
I have not spoken with him, it is the resistors that are in question. trust me, i am patient. I am 32 going 33 , done car audio/ some home theatre, for 18 yrs. NO i am not by anyway saying that I know more, I understand the fact this is something new, to me.. very fascinating, i love a challenge and as i said, "i cannot wait to post results"
thanks again friend. Nathan
I have not spoken with him, it is the resistors that are in question. trust me, i am patient. I am 32 going 33 , done car audio/ some home theatre, for 18 yrs. NO i am not by anyway saying that I know more, I understand the fact this is something new, to me.. very fascinating, i love a challenge and as i said, "i cannot wait to post results"
thanks again friend. Nathan
Thats what Charlie said, the resisters that were on the schematic didnt make sence, the rating on power handling was very questionable. I am not an engineer, i can read a schematic, Charlie on the other hand puts me to shame. but since he lives 30min. from my house, it is a good feeling that i will have the opportunity to make my or our own with his guidence and support. thanks for the reply, resisters are noted as an issue.
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