Hi All
This is my first posting in the Loudspeaker forums and this is my first speaker project.
I wanted to build a planar or ribbon speaker and that will go fairly low and after some research I decided to use the B&G Neo8. Initially I was planning on using the RD75 but I thought it would be too ambitious for a first project as well as being too expensive.
I also wanted bass that would be fast, to match the neo8, and deep so I thought I would use a folded tapered 1/4 wavelength transmission line enclosure with a Morel MW-268 8" woofer.
I have done some research but I have not found anybody who has done a 2 way project based on a the neo8 (though I have seen a few line arrays) but I am sure somebody has some something similar and I would be keen to hear what you think.
Cheers
Tim
This is my first posting in the Loudspeaker forums and this is my first speaker project.
I wanted to build a planar or ribbon speaker and that will go fairly low and after some research I decided to use the B&G Neo8. Initially I was planning on using the RD75 but I thought it would be too ambitious for a first project as well as being too expensive.
I also wanted bass that would be fast, to match the neo8, and deep so I thought I would use a folded tapered 1/4 wavelength transmission line enclosure with a Morel MW-268 8" woofer.
I have done some research but I have not found anybody who has done a 2 way project based on a the neo8 (though I have seen a few line arrays) but I am sure somebody has some something similar and I would be keen to hear what you think.
Cheers
Tim
Thanks for the link Tosh, but is not quite what I am building.
I have attached a quick sketch to give everybody an idea what it will look like.
I am debating if I should also add a the Bohlender Graebener Neo3 as a tweeter and use the Neo8 as a midrange from 800Hz to around 7k.
I was also wondering if there is a cheaper alternative to the Morel MW-266, maybe the Daytona RS255 or similar 8" woofer suitable for a transmission line.
Also what is the difference between the standard neo8 and the neo8-PDR.
Thanks in advance for any help
Cheers
Tim
I have attached a quick sketch to give everybody an idea what it will look like.
I am debating if I should also add a the Bohlender Graebener Neo3 as a tweeter and use the Neo8 as a midrange from 800Hz to around 7k.
I was also wondering if there is a cheaper alternative to the Morel MW-266, maybe the Daytona RS255 or similar 8" woofer suitable for a transmission line.
Also what is the difference between the standard neo8 and the neo8-PDR.
Thanks in advance for any help
Cheers
Tim
Attachments
Hello Tim,
There is quite a bit of molten rock between us -
I also have a pair of Neo8's that will sit on either side of a home made Neil Davis Heil AMT I just put together, as an MTM. Your Neo8 would blend like butter into the Neo3 except for an audible little peak in the Neo8 around 10K that will have to be dealt with. Parts Express has a suggested trap filter that you could use as a starting point. Boelender-Grabher or however it's spelled might have a system using those drivers on the high end with a designed crossover that you could copy. I would email them and ask if any professionals have published a nice airy dipole design with these drivers.
Keep your crossover external so you can fiddle with it. And you will, compulsively!
By the way, if by Daytona you mean Dayton Audio, I have two of their woofers that will go on either side of the previous mess (WMTMW?). I can't afford Focal woofers any longer, but these drivers are an outstanding value. And yes, they'll be in a transmission line! I'm sure they have more quality variation, so you may want to break them in and find the parameters, using something like The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook.
Just curious, Tim, what is your mains AC voltage in NZ?
Later,
Paul
There is quite a bit of molten rock between us -
I also have a pair of Neo8's that will sit on either side of a home made Neil Davis Heil AMT I just put together, as an MTM. Your Neo8 would blend like butter into the Neo3 except for an audible little peak in the Neo8 around 10K that will have to be dealt with. Parts Express has a suggested trap filter that you could use as a starting point. Boelender-Grabher or however it's spelled might have a system using those drivers on the high end with a designed crossover that you could copy. I would email them and ask if any professionals have published a nice airy dipole design with these drivers.
Keep your crossover external so you can fiddle with it. And you will, compulsively!
By the way, if by Daytona you mean Dayton Audio, I have two of their woofers that will go on either side of the previous mess (WMTMW?). I can't afford Focal woofers any longer, but these drivers are an outstanding value. And yes, they'll be in a transmission line! I'm sure they have more quality variation, so you may want to break them in and find the parameters, using something like The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook.
Just curious, Tim, what is your mains AC voltage in NZ?
Later,
Paul
Hi Paul
I like the sound of your project but it must be tall if it is a WMTMW design with transmission line woofers.
It is strange but when ever I read Dayton my voice in my head hears it as Daytona (as in the 500) but anyway you are correct, I do hear that the RS255's can be a little light on the bass, I will have a look at the focals.
For the crossover i originally thought I would go active, but back then I was not planning to add the neo3's, but we have to see.
I am glad that you think that this will work together, I will have to do some work to finalise the design so I can order some speakers.
Oh yeah our AC supply voltage is 230V, are you planning to visit?
thanks for your interest.
Tim
I like the sound of your project but it must be tall if it is a WMTMW design with transmission line woofers.
It is strange but when ever I read Dayton my voice in my head hears it as Daytona (as in the 500) but anyway you are correct, I do hear that the RS255's can be a little light on the bass, I will have a look at the focals.
For the crossover i originally thought I would go active, but back then I was not planning to add the neo3's, but we have to see.
I am glad that you think that this will work together, I will have to do some work to finalise the design so I can order some speakers.
Hello Tim,
There is quite a bit of molten rock between us -
I also have a pair of Neo8's that will sit on either side of a home made Neil Davis Heil AMT I just put together, as an MTM. Your Neo8 would blend like butter into the Neo3 except for an audible little peak in the Neo8 around 10K that will have to be dealt with. Parts Express has a suggested trap filter that you could use as a starting point. Boelender-Grabher or however it's spelled might have a system using those drivers on the high end with a designed crossover that you could copy. I would email them and ask if any professionals have published a nice airy dipole design with these drivers.
Keep your crossover external so you can fiddle with it. And you will, compulsively!
By the way, if by Daytona you mean Dayton Audio, I have two of their woofers that will go on either side of the previous mess (WMTMW?). I can't afford Focal woofers any longer, but these drivers are an outstanding value. And yes, they'll be in a transmission line! I'm sure they have more quality variation, so you may want to break them in and find the parameters, using something like The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook.
Just curious, Tim, what is your mains AC voltage in NZ?
Later,
Paul
Oh yeah our AC supply voltage is 230V, are you planning to visit?
thanks for your interest.
Tim
Hey Tim,
The WMTMW will sit sideways on top of our telly. If I use an odd-order crossover and keep the drivers closer than 1/3 wavelength, that won't matter, there won't be any major nulls.
I was just wondering about the AC voltage - we must have had historically cheap copper because we have 120V, requiring thicker power leads.
Later!
Paul
The WMTMW will sit sideways on top of our telly. If I use an odd-order crossover and keep the drivers closer than 1/3 wavelength, that won't matter, there won't be any major nulls.
I was just wondering about the AC voltage - we must have had historically cheap copper because we have 120V, requiring thicker power leads.
Later!
Paul
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