also how would be the layout of the membrane where would be the conductive lines?
here's the add
SFI BIPOLE RIBBON TWEETER 4PC SETS EMIT-R ??
http://cgi.ebay.com/RIBBON-TWEETERS...s=66:2|65:15|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
* BRAND: SFI - SAWAFUJI
* MODEL: SZ-2B
* OUTER DIAMETER: 1 1/2"
* CUTOUT DIAMETER: 1 1/2"
* SCREW SPACING: NONE
* OVERALL DEPTH: 7/16"
* MOUNTING DEPTH: 7/16"
* MAGNET DIAMETER: 1 1/2"
* COIL SIZE: PLANAR ELEMENT
* WEIGHT: .15 LBS
* IMPEDANCE: 8 OHMS
* POWER HANDLING: 50 WATTS
IF CROSSED OVER PROPERLY THE POWER HANDLING SHOULD
here's the add
SFI BIPOLE RIBBON TWEETER 4PC SETS EMIT-R ??
http://cgi.ebay.com/RIBBON-TWEETERS...s=66:2|65:15|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
* BRAND: SFI - SAWAFUJI
* MODEL: SZ-2B
* OUTER DIAMETER: 1 1/2"
* CUTOUT DIAMETER: 1 1/2"
* SCREW SPACING: NONE
* OVERALL DEPTH: 7/16"
* MOUNTING DEPTH: 7/16"
* MAGNET DIAMETER: 1 1/2"
* COIL SIZE: PLANAR ELEMENT
* WEIGHT: .15 LBS
* IMPEDANCE: 8 OHMS
* POWER HANDLING: 50 WATTS
IF CROSSED OVER PROPERLY THE POWER HANDLING SHOULD
Attachments
I'm also selling these and here's a link with
lots of information from Planet 10 on his t-line speaker
website...
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/drivers/ribbon.html
Steve @ Apex Jr.
lots of information from Planet 10 on his t-line speaker
website...
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/drivers/ribbon.html
Steve @ Apex Jr.
I see the eBay guy poached my graphic... if i were you i'd buy them from Steve.
Even if there isn't a diyA discount, he is a known, good entity.
BTW i scored a set of Akai mini speakers that use these tweeters, Until the surrounds fell of the passive radiators they were my favorites in their class.
dave
Even if there isn't a diyA discount, he is a known, good entity.
BTW i scored a set of Akai mini speakers that use these tweeters, Until the surrounds fell of the passive radiators they were my favorites in their class.
dave
Yeah, in the headphone world these are called "orthodynamic" drivers. A term coined (I believe) by Yamaha.
Over on Head-fi there is a long thread called "orthodynamic roundup" which talks all about this type of driver. I have personally built several headphones using this exact driver.
Essentially a planar magnetic driver these can sound quite good as headphone drivers, even though these particular units were originally designed for tweeter use.
Over on Head-fi there is a long thread called "orthodynamic roundup" which talks all about this type of driver. I have personally built several headphones using this exact driver.
Essentially a planar magnetic driver these can sound quite good as headphone drivers, even though these particular units were originally designed for tweeter use.
. i was looking for neodym magnets and found rings and discs, so i rememberd some kind of driver using discs. but it looks it wont do any good replacing them with neodym.I was mistaken, I thought the image you had posted was of the dipole version.
The seller used to (may still) have dipole versions with the perforated magnet on front
and back in 32 and 120 ohm.
I made several "frankenphones" with the dipole type but ultimately ended up preferring the production Fostex phones, which have the same type of driver.
The seller used to (may still) have dipole versions with the perforated magnet on front
and back in 32 and 120 ohm.
I made several "frankenphones" with the dipole type but ultimately ended up preferring the production Fostex phones, which have the same type of driver.
Interesting. Well that should make drilling the holes a breeze, then. Disassembly might be a bit more tricky, however.
If the rest of the construction is like an SFI SZ-2T it might be easier to take it apart from the front. Get a jeweler's flat head, slip it under the metal clamping ring and work your way around while bending that lip up using the screwdriver as a lever. I say it might be easier approaching things from the front because the front magnet is a hard sintered ferrite that won't get damaged by the process. That said, it will most likely be a little difficult to remove the diaphragm since the the solder tabs have to be oriented at an angle in order to pull everything through that metal clamping ring.
I think if you take the rubber magnet and get it to attract the hard sintered one you'll be able to match their perimeters with one another, get a mechanical pencil to outline each perforation, and then just drill the holes accordingly. For reassembly they'll of course have to repel each other.
Of course, if the diaphragms are exactly the same as an SZ-2T (meaning the magnets change polarity similarly) you could buy a second pair of tweeters here and simply swap out the rubber magnets on your Akai for the front perforated ones on the new set.
If the rest of the construction is like an SFI SZ-2T it might be easier to take it apart from the front. Get a jeweler's flat head, slip it under the metal clamping ring and work your way around while bending that lip up using the screwdriver as a lever. I say it might be easier approaching things from the front because the front magnet is a hard sintered ferrite that won't get damaged by the process. That said, it will most likely be a little difficult to remove the diaphragm since the the solder tabs have to be oriented at an angle in order to pull everything through that metal clamping ring.
I think if you take the rubber magnet and get it to attract the hard sintered one you'll be able to match their perimeters with one another, get a mechanical pencil to outline each perforation, and then just drill the holes accordingly. For reassembly they'll of course have to repel each other.
Of course, if the diaphragms are exactly the same as an SZ-2T (meaning the magnets change polarity similarly) you could buy a second pair of tweeters here and simply swap out the rubber magnets on your Akai for the front perforated ones on the new set.
It is available in my country for about 2 USD:
ÁRWILL ELEKTRONIC elektronikai alkatrész kis- és nagykereskedés - 4IT-SM3G magassugárzó
Maybe I buy some for disassembling and experimenting with.
ÁRWILL ELEKTRONIC elektronikai alkatrész kis- és nagykereskedés - 4IT-SM3G magassugárzó
Maybe I buy some for disassembling and experimenting with.
Sounds good.
This stuff might be no-brainer for you, but I figure it can't hurt. Few tips/bits of advice if you care for them: On reassembly, before fully re-clamping the magnets, you may want to make sure the perforations match between front and back. You can easily see this by holding the drivers up to a light source.
Also, just inside the metal clamp there's a little piece of plastic film that runs around perpendicular to the diaphragm which keeps everything from shorting out. You might want to devise a plan in order to not deform/destroy that little insulator piece when reinserting everything. You could bend the metal clamp piece a bit further to give yourself a little bit more working room, and/or you could use some Scotch tape to form a guide for the magnet to slip inside of.
Best of luck.
This stuff might be no-brainer for you, but I figure it can't hurt. Few tips/bits of advice if you care for them: On reassembly, before fully re-clamping the magnets, you may want to make sure the perforations match between front and back. You can easily see this by holding the drivers up to a light source.
Also, just inside the metal clamp there's a little piece of plastic film that runs around perpendicular to the diaphragm which keeps everything from shorting out. You might want to devise a plan in order to not deform/destroy that little insulator piece when reinserting everything. You could bend the metal clamp piece a bit further to give yourself a little bit more working room, and/or you could use some Scotch tape to form a guide for the magnet to slip inside of.
Best of luck.
Sawafuji SFI Digital 20
Hello,
I have a pair of vintage SAWAFUJi SFI Speakers, located at my other place.
There were considered to be amazing speakers. They work perfectly and sound great however the cosmetics are OK but not perfect. I'm wondering what they might be worth should I decide to sell them.
Exert from an other posting edited. The Sawafuji SFI is a ribbon speaker. It was manufactured from 1980 to unknown. They are rated 40w to 120w, and were nominally 80 hz- 20 Khz at 8 ohms, although the response at the lower end was perceptible but weak.
The components are mounted on a panel which is vented to the rear.
Construction 4 x Planar Tweeters.
4 x 4.5" planars wired in series as midranges,
8 x 4.5" grid containing 16 drivers series wired with the crossover occupying the center position.
They work best about a foot/ 18" from the wall for best bass response, but I run them with 2 x 35 watts/channel, plus a 50 watt powered sub crossed over at 80hz. Great imaging - the room I have them in is 10' wide by 18' long, and they are mounted on the short wall with the tweeters toward the walls. A choral work or orchestral piece keeps the voices and instruments well located, without wandering around.
The Digital 20s retailed around $1000/1500 pair, depending upon the store.
They sold them for several years, with moderate success, but the market wanted loud, punchy bass and that's not the SFI's forte. But for a good recording of a string quarter, are still marvelous!
SFI Main.jpg
Hello,
I have a pair of vintage SAWAFUJi SFI Speakers, located at my other place.
There were considered to be amazing speakers. They work perfectly and sound great however the cosmetics are OK but not perfect. I'm wondering what they might be worth should I decide to sell them.
Exert from an other posting edited. The Sawafuji SFI is a ribbon speaker. It was manufactured from 1980 to unknown. They are rated 40w to 120w, and were nominally 80 hz- 20 Khz at 8 ohms, although the response at the lower end was perceptible but weak.
The components are mounted on a panel which is vented to the rear.
Construction 4 x Planar Tweeters.
4 x 4.5" planars wired in series as midranges,
8 x 4.5" grid containing 16 drivers series wired with the crossover occupying the center position.
They work best about a foot/ 18" from the wall for best bass response, but I run them with 2 x 35 watts/channel, plus a 50 watt powered sub crossed over at 80hz. Great imaging - the room I have them in is 10' wide by 18' long, and they are mounted on the short wall with the tweeters toward the walls. A choral work or orchestral piece keeps the voices and instruments well located, without wandering around.
The Digital 20s retailed around $1000/1500 pair, depending upon the store.
They sold them for several years, with moderate success, but the market wanted loud, punchy bass and that's not the SFI's forte. But for a good recording of a string quarter, are still marvelous!
SFI Main.jpg
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