Hello everyone,
I am thinking of making my own walsh-type drivers like this guy did:
http://www.audiodesignguide.com/full/conus1.html
Does anyone know where I can get formulas for cone shapes? What I am looking for are the dimensions of a 2-d cut of thin aluminum to make a tall, skinny cone of certain dimensions. I plan to use the basket and motor from a vintage 10 or 12 inch fullranger and make the cone about 12 to 18 inches tall. I am hoping to run them full-range up to 6k hz or higher an then cross to a tweeter.
Do you think I'd have better luck using a smaller full-ranger and augment the bass instead?
Also, I have never actually seen/heard a walsh driver. Do they use a normal speaker surround or are they held more rigidly at the base of the cone to induce more bending motion within the cone itself. I tried doing a patent search to obtain construction details but had no luck...
Any general opinions of walsh drivers would be welcome too.
Quality sound is my goal, but equally important is a pair of whacko-looking speakers.
-Chris
http://www.audiodesignguide.com/full/conus1.html
I am thinking of making my own walsh-type drivers like this guy did:
http://www.audiodesignguide.com/full/conus1.html
Does anyone know where I can get formulas for cone shapes? What I am looking for are the dimensions of a 2-d cut of thin aluminum to make a tall, skinny cone of certain dimensions. I plan to use the basket and motor from a vintage 10 or 12 inch fullranger and make the cone about 12 to 18 inches tall. I am hoping to run them full-range up to 6k hz or higher an then cross to a tweeter.
Do you think I'd have better luck using a smaller full-ranger and augment the bass instead?
Also, I have never actually seen/heard a walsh driver. Do they use a normal speaker surround or are they held more rigidly at the base of the cone to induce more bending motion within the cone itself. I tried doing a patent search to obtain construction details but had no luck...
Any general opinions of walsh drivers would be welcome too.
Quality sound is my goal, but equally important is a pair of whacko-looking speakers.
-Chris
http://www.audiodesignguide.com/full/conus1.html
This may be of limited help, but I picked up several NOS walsh tweeters that were used in one of the large early Infinitys. I sold them, but I know that one went to the guy who runs Ohm. He was interested because, apparently, they don't have any information on them, even though you might assume that, as the maker of the F, they would know everything. He might be worth contacting since apparently he is interested in the driver design.
At any rate, the tweeter appeared to me to be a modification of a dome tweeter which looked remarkably like the one used in the old Audio Pro two way. It almost seemed that they had simply glued a thin aluminum cone on the existing tweeter, but since the cone itself was stuffed with fiberfill (glued) I couldn't tell whether the old dome was still there or what.
At any rate, the tweeter appeared to me to be a modification of a dome tweeter which looked remarkably like the one used in the old Audio Pro two way. It almost seemed that they had simply glued a thin aluminum cone on the existing tweeter, but since the cone itself was stuffed with fiberfill (glued) I couldn't tell whether the old dome was still there or what.
Well,
I bought a pair of vintage EV wolverine 12" full rangers off of ebay for $10. They seem to fit the bill for this project as they were cheap, have nice looking cast frames (since the frame will be exposed), and the cones are already trashed. That way I don't have any regrets about tearing them up. I am hoping that they have a powerful magnet/motor to boot.
Is anyone familiar with these speakers? They look like they may have been something special in their day. Would they be worth re-coning if the home-made walsh drivers are a flop?
What kind of glue do you guys use to attach cones to the coils?
I bought a pair of vintage EV wolverine 12" full rangers off of ebay for $10. They seem to fit the bill for this project as they were cheap, have nice looking cast frames (since the frame will be exposed), and the cones are already trashed. That way I don't have any regrets about tearing them up. I am hoping that they have a powerful magnet/motor to boot.
Is anyone familiar with these speakers? They look like they may have been something special in their day. Would they be worth re-coning if the home-made walsh drivers are a flop?
What kind of glue do you guys use to attach cones to the coils?
I found some 6.5" full rangers (off some cars at the scrap 
)
for like... hum.. 2$ each.
And I was looking a the top of a plastic 2L coke bottle when I saw the material was strong, light, and easy to work with.
What do you guys think?
Otherwise I would try something like fiberglass.
And the cones I'll use will need to be relativly small. The 6.5" won't be able to drive a big cone.
Yhea... I know I'm cheap...
)for like... hum.. 2$ each.
And I was looking a the top of a plastic 2L coke bottle when I saw the material was strong, light, and easy to work with.
What do you guys think?
Otherwise I would try something like fiberglass.
And the cones I'll use will need to be relativly small. The 6.5" won't be able to drive a big cone.
Yhea... I know I'm cheap...
How are you doing on this project?
I have started a DIY similsr to Conus 1
My construction style is a bit different.
Get a styrofoam cone from local Walmart
cover it with teflon plumbimg tape, spray with cooking spray for easy release.
Place a layer of regular aluminum foil on the cone and leave a 0.25" over lap, glue with elmers Ultimate polyurethene base glue.
Place a knee high nylon stocking over the aluminum and streach to shape.
Take some fiberglass resin and paint it on top of the cone.
When it has cured you have a very light stiff cone that was easy to construct.
you can even use the left over stocking to make the surround by sealing it with a rubber like compound.
I have started a DIY similsr to Conus 1
My construction style is a bit different.
Get a styrofoam cone from local Walmart
cover it with teflon plumbimg tape, spray with cooking spray for easy release.
Place a layer of regular aluminum foil on the cone and leave a 0.25" over lap, glue with elmers Ultimate polyurethene base glue.
Place a knee high nylon stocking over the aluminum and streach to shape.
Take some fiberglass resin and paint it on top of the cone.
When it has cured you have a very light stiff cone that was easy to construct.
you can even use the left over stocking to make the surround by sealing it with a rubber like compound.
Possible cone material
I ahve wanted to try building some Walsh style drivers myself. I was thinking of trying to make a cone out of the thin aluminum used in offset printing. It seems to be a hard alloy and is quite thin. I haven't got one in front of me to measure but memory says about 12" x 20". Once the cone was formed an acid bath could take the thickness down even further. A visit to an offset printing shop will probably yield free used ones if you talk to the manager nicely.
I ahve wanted to try building some Walsh style drivers myself. I was thinking of trying to make a cone out of the thin aluminum used in offset printing. It seems to be a hard alloy and is quite thin. I haven't got one in front of me to measure but memory says about 12" x 20". Once the cone was formed an acid bath could take the thickness down even further. A visit to an offset printing shop will probably yield free used ones if you talk to the manager nicely.
living with Walsh speakers
I bought a brand new pair of Ohm Walsh 2's in the mid '80's. I've played a Luxman integrated amp, a Yamaha integrated amp, some old, old Marantz stuff, and a Crown amp through them.
Walsh 2's were the most popular, best selling Ohm's ever....and I know why. Transients on brass, vocals, and cymbals really sizzle. The bass is extremely smooth and very, very linear/flat. Sometimes they still amaze me with how much bass they produce, and it never is boomy.
I have never felt the need to add an equalizer to the system with the Ohm's. They just sound marvelous.
The wife acceptance factor is also very high, because they are relatively compact.
If anyone can reproduce a Walsh driver like these, they will be very very very very very very satisfied.
I bought a brand new pair of Ohm Walsh 2's in the mid '80's. I've played a Luxman integrated amp, a Yamaha integrated amp, some old, old Marantz stuff, and a Crown amp through them.
Walsh 2's were the most popular, best selling Ohm's ever....and I know why. Transients on brass, vocals, and cymbals really sizzle. The bass is extremely smooth and very, very linear/flat. Sometimes they still amaze me with how much bass they produce, and it never is boomy.
I have never felt the need to add an equalizer to the system with the Ohm's. They just sound marvelous.
The wife acceptance factor is also very high, because they are relatively compact.
If anyone can reproduce a Walsh driver like these, they will be very very very very very very satisfied.
I helped a friend buy some Infinity speakers with the Walsh tweeters, and they really didn't sound that good. I got caught up in the hype I'm afraid.
I haven't heard the Ohms though.
I HAVE seen them though, and they have a surround on the base I believe, because at some frequency the whole cone begins to move and it acts like a standard driver. So there is a transition between the vibrating walls and the whole cone moving. It seems that it would be easy to get some foam speaker replacement surrrounds from the many kits available for repairing rotted foam surrounds- It will even come with glue.
Parts Express has 'em
I haven't heard the Ohms though.
I HAVE seen them though, and they have a surround on the base I believe, because at some frequency the whole cone begins to move and it acts like a standard driver. So there is a transition between the vibrating walls and the whole cone moving. It seems that it would be easy to get some foam speaker replacement surrrounds from the many kits available for repairing rotted foam surrounds- It will even come with glue.
Parts Express has 'em
You don´t use a stiff cone in this type of driver, forget it. Using a stiff cone will eliminate the bending wave principal and more or less make it a "odd shaped cone" with ugly break-up resonances.
The DDD driver use a titanium foil that is relativley soft and it´s also damped with something "glue-like" on specific places on the inside to improve upon the behaviour.
Don´t count on getting good results with a DIY DDD driver in the first couple of years.. this is complicated stuff.
Interesting sound, cool looks but for my own use, I´m past this omni thing.
/Peter
The DDD driver use a titanium foil that is relativley soft and it´s also damped with something "glue-like" on specific places on the inside to improve upon the behaviour.
Don´t count on getting good results with a DIY DDD driver in the first couple of years.. this is complicated stuff.
Interesting sound, cool looks but for my own use, I´m past this omni thing.
/Peter
Motor Complete
For a motor I used a noname 8" fullrange speaker with wizzer used for background music. It's aprox 93 dB @ 1watt before I reworked it.
Remove the cone.
Carefully remove the leads from the terminals to the voice coil
Remove the wizzer but leave the dust cap.
Saw off the frame from the motor assembly.
Drill 2 small holes at the edge of the dust cap and voice coil former in line with the leads from the voice coil.
Reconect the voice coil to the lead out.
Place the solder joint in the drilled hole and epoxy in place.
Volia the motor is done.
For a motor I used a noname 8" fullrange speaker with wizzer used for background music. It's aprox 93 dB @ 1watt before I reworked it.
Remove the cone.
Carefully remove the leads from the terminals to the voice coil
Remove the wizzer but leave the dust cap.
Saw off the frame from the motor assembly.
Drill 2 small holes at the edge of the dust cap and voice coil former in line with the leads from the voice coil.
Reconect the voice coil to the lead out.
Place the solder joint in the drilled hole and epoxy in place.
Volia the motor is done.
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