If you cannot find the 989 service manual, then 98% of the information is in the ESL63 service manual. From an electrical perspective the 989 is basically a later 63 with a couple of extra Bass Panels. The major difference is the use of arrays of Zener diode voltage clamp on the secondary side of the 989 for overdrive protection.
Sitting behind me I have 63, 989’s and 2905’s
I can try and help if you have any unique 989 issue....
John
Sitting behind me I have 63, 989’s and 2905’s
I can try and help if you have any unique 989 issue....
John
Stuart,
The main differences are in the rigidity of the design, the later 2805 are very sold – this makes a big difference to LF performance.
The ESL panels themselves are 100% the same – the electronics are basically the same (circuit wise), so if you have the later Secondary side Zener clamp in your 63’s, then you don’t have to feel your missing anything.
What your 63’s really need is a much stronger frame / stable support – this is where the later 2805’s really shine...
The PCB layout in the 2805's is different from your 63's - but basically the same circuit.
I've also seen primary and secondary side Zener clamp circuits - the later 2805's have the zener clamps on the secondary side (via a whole string of diodes) - where it should be!!
John
The main differences are in the rigidity of the design, the later 2805 are very sold – this makes a big difference to LF performance.
The ESL panels themselves are 100% the same – the electronics are basically the same (circuit wise), so if you have the later Secondary side Zener clamp in your 63’s, then you don’t have to feel your missing anything.
What your 63’s really need is a much stronger frame / stable support – this is where the later 2805’s really shine...
The PCB layout in the 2805's is different from your 63's - but basically the same circuit.
I've also seen primary and secondary side Zener clamp circuits - the later 2805's have the zener clamps on the secondary side (via a whole string of diodes) - where it should be!!
John
Stuart,
Well if you’re going to build your own frame - why stop at adding an extra 2 panels - why not 4....
or more
A couple of concerns would be the extra loading on the transformers - and the effects of the extra loading on the Delayline... but you can always "Carefully" play with this - once the speaker has been constructed.
However I would be concerned about the conductive frame... but this is stating the obvious... (I believe Quad's frame is also conductive - extruded aluminium).
John
Well if you’re going to build your own frame - why stop at adding an extra 2 panels - why not 4....
or more A couple of concerns would be the extra loading on the transformers - and the effects of the extra loading on the Delayline... but you can always "Carefully" play with this - once the speaker has been constructed.
However I would be concerned about the conductive frame... but this is stating the obvious... (I believe Quad's frame is also conductive - extruded aluminium).
John
Solstistel,
FIRST disconnected all leads and allow the speaker to "Discharge" over night.
Stand in front of your speaker - and carefully push / Slide to the >>>>Right >>>> the "Top / Cover / Lid / Top Hat (what ever you wish to call it)". Once this is moved about an inch to the right, it can then be lifted off.
Once the top is removed, the "Body Sock" can then be lifted off the industrial "Velcro" type attachment and rolled down the speaker.
Then you can see the screws to remove the Metal grill. Once you have done this, you need to remove the real "Dust covers" with there frames from the speakers - Front and Rear.
John
FIRST disconnected all leads and allow the speaker to "Discharge" over night. Stand in front of your speaker - and carefully push / Slide to the >>>>Right >>>> the "Top / Cover / Lid / Top Hat (what ever you wish to call it)". Once this is moved about an inch to the right, it can then be lifted off.
Once the top is removed, the "Body Sock" can then be lifted off the industrial "Velcro" type attachment and rolled down the speaker.
Then you can see the screws to remove the Metal grill. Once you have done this, you need to remove the real "Dust covers" with there frames from the speakers - Front and Rear.
John
ESL989
I've finally got round to looking at this. The bottom panel of one of the speakers is making a clicking/popping noise. I've removed the sock and metal grills, but nothing else as yet. When the speaker is switched on (even with no input signal) I can see part of the centre film (presumably the mylar electrode) moving (flapping about). Does this mean that the panel needs returning to Quad for repair or is it possible to fix it myself? Are there any other diagnostics I can do?
Many thanks,
Solstistel
I've finally got round to looking at this. The bottom panel of one of the speakers is making a clicking/popping noise. I've removed the sock and metal grills, but nothing else as yet. When the speaker is switched on (even with no input signal) I can see part of the centre film (presumably the mylar electrode) moving (flapping about). Does this mean that the panel needs returning to Quad for repair or is it possible to fix it myself? Are there any other diagnostics I can do?
Many thanks,
Solstistel
Quad 63
Here is a good link (I haven't tried it myself, my 63's) seem ok
http://www.quadesl.org/Fixit_/TreblePanel/treblepanel.html. I sometime do get a clicking noise so would be interested in what you find
Here is a good link (I haven't tried it myself, my 63's) seem ok
http://www.quadesl.org/Fixit_/TreblePanel/treblepanel.html. I sometime do get a clicking noise so would be interested in what you find
I've often seen references to bass panels on some of the Quad ESLs models (eg JohnW reference above and my own 989s have apparently got extra bass panels in contrast to the 988s). However, I was also under the impression that there is no crossover in Quad ESLs. If that is right, how can you have discrete bass panels?
I'm obviously missing something; can someone put me right?
I'm obviously missing something; can someone put me right?
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