Hello,
I think today I will construct the frame for the curved table.
What keeps the tension on the film for long time?
Are the adhesive of 3M (spacers) all that is needed?
Do I have to do anything to set and make sure that the tension remains for the long haul?
My plan:
1. Create a strong curved tabletop
2. Secure rollers at the end of the table
3. Glue Mylar to fixed roller, attach to other roller
4. After Mylar is secured to the fixed roller, and film is flat no wrinkles, put two dots separated by 1" in many places.
5. Start turning the roller pulling the Mylar uniform and vertical.
6. Stop turning once you have verified that each dot pair has elongated to 1-2% of original unstreched distance. (There are better ways to measure tension and make sure it is uniform, this is free, and I’m open to ideas)
7. With the film under tension, coat it by rubbing in graphite with paper towel.
8. Using mega ohm meter verify that the resistance is pretty much steady.
9. Prepare front stator by attaching 3M foam tape, I may need to use a primer first since my insulation coating has low surface energy, 3M sells such a primer. The primer will make the tape stick very well.
10. Prepare copper bus tape, solder connection, tape around the perimeter and internal horizontal spacers
11 rub some graphite at the copper bus tapes edge to get good contact with film.
12. Attach prepared front stator to the tension table where the coated Mylar awaits.
13. Apply finger pressure along perimeter
14. Cut excess Mylar
15, free stator from tension table
16. Prepare back stator
17. Form lamination
If anyone can add or remove from above list I would love to hear from you, take care
Happy Building,
Bryan
I think today I will construct the frame for the curved table.
What keeps the tension on the film for long time?
Are the adhesive of 3M (spacers) all that is needed?
Do I have to do anything to set and make sure that the tension remains for the long haul?
My plan:
1. Create a strong curved tabletop
2. Secure rollers at the end of the table
3. Glue Mylar to fixed roller, attach to other roller
4. After Mylar is secured to the fixed roller, and film is flat no wrinkles, put two dots separated by 1" in many places.
5. Start turning the roller pulling the Mylar uniform and vertical.
6. Stop turning once you have verified that each dot pair has elongated to 1-2% of original unstreched distance. (There are better ways to measure tension and make sure it is uniform, this is free, and I’m open to ideas)
7. With the film under tension, coat it by rubbing in graphite with paper towel.
8. Using mega ohm meter verify that the resistance is pretty much steady.
9. Prepare front stator by attaching 3M foam tape, I may need to use a primer first since my insulation coating has low surface energy, 3M sells such a primer. The primer will make the tape stick very well.
10. Prepare copper bus tape, solder connection, tape around the perimeter and internal horizontal spacers
11 rub some graphite at the copper bus tapes edge to get good contact with film.
12. Attach prepared front stator to the tension table where the coated Mylar awaits.
13. Apply finger pressure along perimeter
14. Cut excess Mylar
15, free stator from tension table
16. Prepare back stator
17. Form lamination
If anyone can add or remove from above list I would love to hear from you, take care
Happy Building,
Bryan