monsoon planar media 7 as line array

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frugal-phile™
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Mostly positive results...

Here is an array with 8. I'd guess this is good to 500 Hz before it starts rolling off.

dave
 

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hi plabet 10,

the line of palanar and the hedlund is belong to yeo of diy paradise right?

it seems that yeo is too busy with his other project and didn't do much on the planar array. is there anyone else you know of has done the same project

thanks
 
Haven’t tried the Planar Media 7 series, but here is a photo of a six panel planar array based on the Monsoon MM700 driver.

Having experimented with the Monsoons for several years now, I find them to be of quite remarkable performance. These drivers have it all: power handling, extended bandwidth, very low distortion, and incredible clarity. When properly driven, they put to shame other planar drivers I have used, including Magneplanar, B&G Neo, and the B&G RD-75.

My current setup uses six Monsoons together with an array of ten Janszen electrostatic tweeters and one bass panel from a vintage pair of Magneplanar Tympani 1D.

Keith
 

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I bought a pair of these about six- eight months ago and have not yet had the time to do anything with them -

Please refresh my memory - they are basically planar tweeters that run from 300 - 20k and they need to be crossed over - they cannot be run full range (ie low frequency driven) without damaging them correct?

Sorry...
 
frugal-phile™
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john65b said:
they are basically planar tweeters that run from 300 - 20k and they need to be crossed over

Monsoon used them to 250 Hz but with EQ to keep them flat below the dipole rolloff at ~1k. To use them lower than 1 k you need to moint them on an appropriate width baffle. Power handling and ultimate loudness levels will increase with a higher XO. 20k on the top is somewhat optimistic.

dave
 
john65b said:
I bought a pair of these about six- eight months ago and have not yet had the time to do anything with them -

Please refresh my memory - they are basically planar tweeters that run from 300 - 20k and they need to be crossed over - they cannot be run full range (ie low frequency driven) without damaging them correct?

Sorry...


Actually, more like 300Hz to 11KHz.

They are remarkably tolerant of excess low frequency input, but in practice the lower limit is closer to 500Hz and then only in multiple arrays. I tend to think of them as a wide bandwidth midrange, rather than a tweeter.

Keith
 

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Kensai said:
Anyone got any easy techniques for mounting these in a line? I've only got 8, so I'll be doing them in lines of 4, but with my limited tools and woodworking skills, I've yet to come up with a way of doing this.

Kensai


That would be my 'tweeter line array' , the third one shown with the ply wood baffle. If you can rip a sheet of 3/4" at a 45' angle , just flip one half over to get a V opening , for less defraction. Determine the spacing you need for your planars and secure that space with some 2x3's on the back. Once the baffle is ready , pick-up a few lenghts of aluminum U channel from the hardware store.. I used 4 4ft lengths. Bring one of your monsoons with you to determine the size of the U opening you need for the planar panel to fit into. Mine were 1/4" , as I purchased the smaller type panels. Get enough 2 sided tape for the total length of channel. Now , back to the baffles. I put a 'stop' cross piece 4 ft down from the top , the bottom of my line array , on the back of the baffle. Then , lay the baffle on it's face . Apply the 2 sided tape to one side of each U channel . Leave the outer cover on . Place the U channels on each side of the
baffle opening. Insert a few of the planar sections(or all of them) into the U (both sides). Lay this 'array' on the back of the baffle opening and mark the location that best fits the opening. Now , remove the 2 sided tape cover and palce the array as marked. You now have your array mounted to the baffle. You can still remove the planar sections by sliding them up through the top of the baffle. After you are happy with your set-up(soldering all all) A small dot of silicone on the back of each section will prevent vibration. This worked for me
 
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