A very simple method of preparing soluble Nylon 6.6
In a glass bottle to pour 50 ml. phenol (pre-heating of the phenol with tempereture 45 grd.C, it becomes liquid on heating)
Add 10ml of isopropanol alcohol and cut to the same small pieces of the ties for electrical cable .
Close the bottle tightly. Leave in a dry warm place for 48 hours.
Закрыть плотно бутылку. Оставить в сухом теплом месте на 48 часов.
Close the bottle tightly. Leave in a dry warm place for 48 hours.
P.S. All work done in a well ventilated area.
A large concentration of phenol vapors cause poisoning. Be very careful.
In a glass bottle to pour 50 ml. phenol (pre-heating of the phenol with tempereture 45 grd.C, it becomes liquid on heating)
Add 10ml of isopropanol alcohol and cut to the same small pieces of the ties for electrical cable .
Close the bottle tightly. Leave in a dry warm place for 48 hours.
Закрыть плотно бутылку. Оставить в сухом теплом месте на 48 часов.
Close the bottle tightly. Leave in a dry warm place for 48 hours.
P.S. All work done in a well ventilated area.
A large concentration of phenol vapors cause poisoning. Be very careful.
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The material for nylon 6.6
One сlamper = 0.5 gr.neylon 6.6
We need 2.5 g .= 5 pcs. сlamers
P.S.
Proportion for nylon coating:
1. 50ml phenol
2. 10ml isopropanol alcohol
3. 2.5gr. Nylon 6.6
[/URL]The material for nylon 6.6
One сlamper = 0.5 gr.neylon 6.6
We need 2.5 g .= 5 pcs. сlamers
P.S.
Proportion for nylon coating:
1. 50ml phenol
2. 10ml isopropanol alcohol
3. 2.5gr. Nylon 6.6
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Hi,
1. Coat glass plate with soap water and flatten out mylar film
A: don´t use soap. Soap is conductive under HV-conditions! Its resistance stays not constant over time and is humidity dependant.
If You spray a bit of purified deionized water (automotive supply for car batteries) on the plate it will be fine.
2. Fit mylar diaphragm to temporary frame with double sided tape
Clean the mylar with ?? Soap and water in shower?Acetone?
A: If it comes off of the roll and You work it immediately the mylar is clean. For the soap see 1). If You feel cleaning is needed, use something that evaporates without residues.
3. Apply luke warm Elvamide solution (doped with ink or not?) Spray or roll?
A: Is it sprayable at all?? If so both methods work. Spraying leads to thicker coatings.
5. Carefully heat shrink mylar film hopefully also create a clear elvamide coating
6. Glue membrane to stator/spacer assembly one side using Loctite 303 with activator (One component on spacer, one coponent on film)
A: interchange steps 5 and 6. Your membrane is already flattened and prestretched! Btw: remember to stretch the membrane always as hard as possible to reach the required resonance frequency. Low mechanical tension is bad! Heat treatment releases tension a bit anyway!
7. Glue other stator/spacer on top of the other
A: I would do this -if anyhow- as one of the last steps and only after I tested the coating on function (just the single stator needed). Final tests before glueing can be done with the stators clamped together.
jauu
Calvin
1. Coat glass plate with soap water and flatten out mylar film
A: don´t use soap. Soap is conductive under HV-conditions! Its resistance stays not constant over time and is humidity dependant.
If You spray a bit of purified deionized water (automotive supply for car batteries) on the plate it will be fine.
2. Fit mylar diaphragm to temporary frame with double sided tape
Clean the mylar with ?? Soap and water in shower?Acetone?
A: If it comes off of the roll and You work it immediately the mylar is clean. For the soap see 1). If You feel cleaning is needed, use something that evaporates without residues.
3. Apply luke warm Elvamide solution (doped with ink or not?) Spray or roll?
A: Is it sprayable at all?? If so both methods work. Spraying leads to thicker coatings.
5. Carefully heat shrink mylar film hopefully also create a clear elvamide coating
6. Glue membrane to stator/spacer assembly one side using Loctite 303 with activator (One component on spacer, one coponent on film)
A: interchange steps 5 and 6. Your membrane is already flattened and prestretched! Btw: remember to stretch the membrane always as hard as possible to reach the required resonance frequency. Low mechanical tension is bad! Heat treatment releases tension a bit anyway!
7. Glue other stator/spacer on top of the other
A: I would do this -if anyhow- as one of the last steps and only after I tested the coating on function (just the single stator needed). Final tests before glueing can be done with the stators clamped together.
jauu
Calvin
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Question: why not "dope" the Nylon6.6 solution with some sort of carbon black containing material or just carbon? A permanent ink that has an alcohol base might work?? Skip the graphite rub part entirely??
_-_-
PS. I'd use a chemical rated respirator myself, and proper gloves, work outside in the warm or with a fan sucking out and another pressurizing in a closed room. None of this stuff kills you outright, but you can get things like Leukemia if you live long enough...
_-_-
PS. I'd use a chemical rated respirator myself, and proper gloves, work outside in the warm or with a fan sucking out and another pressurizing in a closed room. None of this stuff kills you outright, but you can get things like Leukemia if you live long enough...
I was not intending to use graphite at all - just Elvamide, possibly with some drops of ink.
Regarding working outside; it's -22 degr C here but i doubt that Elvamide is particulary harmful as it is used to coat cloth and thread for clothes industry. The Elvamide is dissolved in alcohol and should not be a problem
Regards,
Bent
Regarding working outside; it's -22 degr C here but i doubt that Elvamide is particulary harmful as it is used to coat cloth and thread for clothes industry. The Elvamide is dissolved in alcohol and should not be a problem
Regards,
Bent
Question: why not "dope" the Nylon6.6 solution with some sort of carbon black containing material or just carbon? A permanent ink that has an alcohol base might work?? Skip the graphite rub part entirely??
_-_-
PS. I'd use a chemical rated respirator myself, and proper gloves, work outside in the warm or with a fan sucking out and another pressurizing in a closed room. None of this stuff kills you outright, but you can get things like Leukemia if you live long enough...
Why not. Possible addition of graphite dust or the Carbon nanotubes.
Adding Carbon nanotubes will enable ESL super transparent coating film.
Be sufficient additives 1% the Carbon nanotubes, to obtain the conductivity of the coating 1e9 ohms.
P.S. I agree with you 100% .But formaldehyde resin coating around us everywhere
hi everybody im jerry and new here. I used licron on my first panels in 2003 and they still work today.the panels can be taken apart to try diffrent spacings.simple and cheap!during the taking them apart and back again many many times i had managed to scratch the mylar and few times delibretly to test the durabilty,the licron would bubble up.but as long as it didnt flake off,hitting it with a heatgun would melt it back to the mylar(.25mil)and fix the crease the scratch caused.it has been along(7 yrs.) while since i have messed with esl designing i've made quite a few and tried all sorts of materials.but now im getting back into it.i just finished a hd driver using two credit cards ,pcb , .1 mil mylar and licron works on 500v bais as first test. will elabroate if intrested .i would like to try elevamide myself i had a suppler in 03 it is cheap but never got any the licron was a free sample. it has its own drawbacks(like everthing else)but is very durable i only coated the paneles once in 03 and they still work today i have enjoyed reading everyones posts through the years! thanks.p.s. any bad scratches are easly fixed because its an areosol as far as sound quality (nearfleid) they rate right up there with my apogee duettes imo its all good!
Hi,
The glue formula is indeed that simple. As ´water´ use the pure deionized stuff from the autromotive supply not water from the hose.
PVA-Glue is the typical household one-glues-all glue. The water-based TESA brand works absolutely fine. But this has been described extensively in other threads. search for glue-formula.
jauu
Calvin
The glue formula is indeed that simple. As ´water´ use the pure deionized stuff from the autromotive supply not water from the hose.
PVA-Glue is the typical household one-glues-all glue. The water-based TESA brand works absolutely fine. But this has been described extensively in other threads. search for glue-formula.
jauu
Calvin
Hi Linquisonic,
Like Calvin has pointed out, it really is that simple. I have been using this formula for almost half a year. And I have been very happy with it. In the beginning, I mix the glue solution with a little bit of graphite powder. It also worked well.
I'm sure you can get PVA glue and black ink anywhere in the world. Therefore this formula is virtually applicable anywhere. Try it and you will love it.
I will try some other glues in the future. Unfortunately, I can't get TESA brand glue here.
Wachara C.
Hi, Is there any difference in using alcohol instead for water?
I belive Casco RX glue should be a perfect candidate as it is a clear PVA glue.
Found some other fun uses for PVA glue in the search process:
Flubber - Naked Scientists Kitchen Science 2009
I belive Casco RX glue should be a perfect candidate as it is a clear PVA glue.
Found some other fun uses for PVA glue in the search process:
Flubber - Naked Scientists Kitchen Science 2009
Hi Clarkcr,
The black ink is made of carbon. And carbon is conductive. When applying the glue to the diaphragm, you only apply a very, very thin layer onto the diaphragm. I'm not sure how much mass is added to the Mylar. I use a sponge to apply. The sponge will suck up most of the glue into the itself and only leave a very minimal amount of glue on the diaphragm. After the glue is dry, the diaphragm will still be very transparent. If you look at the diaphragm in an angle, you will see the glue. Otherwise, the glue trace is barely noticeable.
Wachara C.
Thanks...but just to clarify, I meant the glue as adding mass...not the carbon.
So, water based glue? Would a thinned contact cement do well with a carbon additive? I would think it would have better adhesion properties. Challenging to shoot with a paint gun.
1. There is urethane based, carbon doped conductive glue for antistatic flooring. Make your guess on solid content, bearing in mind the fact that polyurethane is a good dielecrtic.
2. Non-polar solvents does not have an ability to suspend small particles. I am NOT giving any kind of suggestions on conductive doping - but there is a reason behind aquadag being aqua based.
You can check for yourself: put a drop of carbon ink into alcohol or acetone.
To frank ziel: thumbs up!
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No, just postulating. Doping with polyvinyl acetate glue and carbon black sounds pretty easy. I don't want to consider disolving nylon or Elvamide in phenol. That doesn't sound fun.
At the end of the day (or years), it's adhesion that I'm concerned about. SY had some good advice on this.
Only one side needs to be doped, am I right? What would be the point of two sided doping?
At the end of the day (or years), it's adhesion that I'm concerned about. SY had some good advice on this.
Only one side needs to be doped, am I right? What would be the point of two sided doping?